The Grand Royal March of Aurangzeb to Kashmir 1662

Source: Mogul India, or Storia do Mogor, by Niccolao Manucci  (c.1652-1680)

In the year 1662, the grand royal march of Aurangzeb to Kashmir commenced at three o'clock in the morning on the seventh day from Delhi. The procession unfolded in a meticulously planned order, showcasing the magnificence and grandeur of the Mogul court.

1. Introduction: The Grand Royal March of Aurangzeb to Kashmir

The march commenced with heavy artillery, leading the way as an avenue for the subsequent camps. Accompanying the artillery was an exquisite boat on a large car, ready to ferry the king across any rivers encountered. The baggage followed closely behind. As morning broke, the camp was cleared, with only the cavalry and infantry remaining in their designated positions.

2. The Commencement of the March and Meticulous Planning

The procession was accompanied by an impressive array of transport. Two hundred camels were laden with silver rupees, each carrying a weight of four hundred and eighty pounds. Another hundred camels carried gold coins of the same weight. One hundred and fifty camels were tasked with transporting hunting nets used to hunt tigers. The royal office of record, a vital component of the court, required eighty camels, thirty elephants, and twenty carts laden with registers and papers of account.

3. The Impressive Array of Transport

The procession also included fifty camels carrying water, each with two metal vessels for the king's use. The princes of the blood royal followed suit, marching similarly according to their ranks. Accompanying the king were eight mules carrying small tents for rest, meals, and other necessities, along with mules carrying clothes and essences of fragrant flowers.

4. The Royal Kitchen and Preparations

The royal kitchen, an integral part of the court's preparations, started its journey at ten o'clock the night before. Fifty camels loaded with supplies and fifty well-fed cows to provide milk accompanied the kitchen. Additionally, dainties prepared by various cooks were sent, each cook responsible for one dish. An official oversaw this department, ensuring that the dishes were sealed in bags of luxurious Malacca velvet. Two hundred qullies carried baskets of chinaware and other articles.

5. Special Arms and Jewels for Generals and Captains

The procession also included thirty elephants loaded with special arms and jewels to be distributed among the generals and captains. These arms were adorned with precious stones and crafted with enamel and gold, including swords, shields, various daggers, and plumes. Additionally, there were items to be given to ladies, such as breast jewels and armlets mounted with pearls and diamonds.

6. The Role of Laborers and Positioning of Tents

Close to the baggage, one thousand laborers armed with axes, mattocks, spades, and pick-axes marched to clear any obstacles along the way. Their commanders rode on horseback, carrying silver axes or mattocks as their badges of office. On reaching the designated halting place, the tents were erected, and the heavy artillery was positioned. The light artillery, consisting of one hundred field pieces, surrounded the royal tents upon their arrival.

7. Aurangzeb Begins His Journey on the Dutch-Presented Throne

At six o'clock, Aurangzeb, seated on the throne presented by the Dutch, began his journey. The throne was carried by twelve men, accompanied by three palanquins of different shapes and five elephants with litters for the king's convenience. As the king emerged from his tents, the light artillery commenced its march from its previous position, consisting of one hundred field pieces, each drawn by two horses.

8. The King's March and Specific Order

The king's march followed a specific order. Sounding all war-like instruments of music, the son of the deceased Shekh Mir led the way with eight thousand cavaliers. The right wing, commanded by Assenalican (Hasan 'Alt Khan), consisted of eight thousand horsemen, while the left wing, commanded by Muhammad Amin Khan, had an equal number. Mounted huntsmen, each with a bird of prey (hawk) on their wrists, followed closely.

9. Men on Foot and Officials Accompanying the King

Nine elephants bearing showy flags preceded the king, followed by four others carrying green standards depicting a sun. Nine adorned horses of state were next in line, ready saddled, and equipped. Two horsemen, one carrying a standard with Arabic letters and the other with a kettledrum, signaled the king's approach.

10. Measuring Progress and Keeping Track of Time

Men on foot advanced on either side of the king, displaying scarlet and green pennants. Others carried staves to drive away anyone who approached too closely. Horsemen with silver staves maintained order, while some men on foot carried perfumes and continuously watered the road. An official provided descriptions of the provinces, lands, and villages the king passed through, ready to answer any questions regarding the territory.

11. Rope bearers measured the distance traveled, marking the ground as they progressed, with each mark signifying a league. A scorekeeper tallied the counts, and another man kept time with an hourglass, announcing the number of hours passed with a mallet on a bronze platter.

The king's progress was accompanied by a sense of dignity and delicacy. A camel carrying a white cloth preceded the procession, used to cover any deceased animals or humans encountered on the road. Stones were placed on the cloth's corners to prevent it from being blown away by the wind. When passing, the king would stop and inquire about the situation.

12. Dignity and Delicacy in the King's Progress

After the king, Sultan Mu'azzam and Sultan A'zam, the prince's companions, rode on horseback. Ten horsemen followed, carrying the royal weapons enclosed in cloth-of-gold bags. The captain of the guard and his troops were next in line, preceding the three royal palanquins and other palanquins for the princes. Twenty-four horsemen, accompanied by pipes, trumpets, and kettledrums, followed the palanquins.

13. The Royal Palanquins and Musicians

The procession included five royal elephants bearing litter, each signifying different aspects of the king's faith and authority. Three elephants carried various symbols, including hands, a plate with Arabic inscriptions, and scales. Two other elephants represented the lordship over rivers and seas, one with a crocodile's head and the other with a fish-like body.

14. Symbolic Elephants Signifying Faith and Authority

The procession continued with numerous palanquins covered in gold-threaded settings, carrying the chosen ladies. Sixty elephants with covered litters transported the remaining women of the royal entourage. Following them were three queens, Aurangzeb's wives, and other ladies of the harem, each with their specialized retinues.

15. Palanquins and Litters for the Chosen Ladies

Ahead of the entire procession, the Grand Master of the Royal Household and other engineers scouted suitable sites for the royal tents to be unloaded, always selecting pleasant locations. The camp was meticulously divided to avoid confusion upon the army's arrival. The royal enclosure was established first, occupying a circumference of five hundred paces. Behind it was the gateway where the women resided, a place of high respect.

16. The Arrangement of Tents and the Royal

Tents for the princes, generals, and nobles were strategically positioned, ensuring a wide space between them and the royal tents. The central space was enclosed by scarlet cloths, acting as three-arm-length high walls. Field pieces were placed around the enclosing screens, with a ditch in front and wooden palisades resembling Venetian chairs behind. Two tents, each housing nine horses, were located near the gateway, and a large raised tent served as a gathering place for drummers and musicians.

17. The Special Royal Tents and Their Significance

The special royal tents, adorned with gilt knobs on small ornamented masts, were reserved for the king's audience. Only individuals of the blood royal were allowed to use these knobs. A lantern was placed atop a high mast to guide late arrivals.

18. The Procession of Nobles and Princes

The tents of the rajahs and nobles, although grand, were not allowed to exceed the height of the king's tents to avoid damage. When the king emerged from his tent to commence the march, the princes, nobles, and generals surrounded him, presenting their requests, to which he offered brief answers. Accompanied by huntsmen, the king decided whether or not to go hunting. If he chose to do so, he would leave the army, followed only by the men on foot and his guard.

19. Arrival and Congratulatory Wishes

As the rest of the procession continued its march at a slower pace, the huntsmen assumed their designated positions if the king did not wish to hunt. Upon sighting the advance tents, the musicians resumed playing until the king passed through the gateway. The small artillery was discharged, and the queens and ladies congratulated the king on his arrival, offering joyful wishes for a prosperous journey.

20. Princess Roshan Ara Begum's Mysterious Journey

It is worth noting that although the princesses and ladies started last, they always arrived first, having taken a shorter route. Typically, the women set off after the baggage and swiftly made their way. It came to my knowledge that during this journey, Princess Roshan Ara Begam did not have her maid-servant in her litter, but instead, a youth dressed as a maidservant took her place. The true intentions of this substitution, along with their indulgence in wine, remain a mystery. This account was relayed to me by a friend, a wine-loving eunuch, and later confirmed by several ladies of the princess's suite after her demise.

An old story from Kotli Noonan Sialkot

Long ago, a captivating and sorrowful story unfolded in a village called Kotli Noonan, near the upper Chenab canal in Sambrial. In the 1950s, my father, a young boy at the time, used to make a weekly journey from Sialkot to Kotli Noonan, enticed by the charm of the upper Chenab canal. The bridge that elegantly stretched over the canal was a beloved spot for locals, attracting divers and swimmers.

One day, when my father arrived in Kotli Noonan, he was surprised by an unusual sight. Every crow in the town had its beak shortened as if someone had cut off a part. In his innocent youth, he wondered if these were a new kind of crows, unaware of the underlying tragedy.

Driven by curiosity, my father sought the wisdom of the villagers, who shared a sad tale. They recounted the misfortune of a poor farmer's ox, which had suffered severe wounds on its neck. Unaware of the ox's pain, the crows mistook the wounds as an easy meal. In their misguided hunger, they continuously pecked at the wounds, worsening the suffering of the helpless ox.

Overwhelmed by sorrow and resentment, the farmer couldn't bear to witness the torment inflicted on his faithful companion. Fueled by a desire for revenge, he devised a plan to punish the crows. With the help of the villagers, they cunningly set a large net, trapping most of the mischievous crows.

Consumed by anger, the farmer, with a heavy heart, decided to teach the crows a harsh lesson. In an impulsive act of retaliation, he ruthlessly cut off the ends of their beaks, believing it to be a just punishment for their wrongdoing.

The tale of Kotli Noonan carries a timeless lesson. It reminds us that seeking revenge out of anger and resentment only perpetuates a cycle of suffering. True wisdom lies in forgiveness and empathy, as they lead to healing and inner peace.

Hold of Dutch, French, Portuguese, and British settlements in India

The history of colonial settlements in India involved various European powers, including the Dutch, French, Portuguese, and British. Here's a brief overview of their presence and influence in India:

1. Dutch Settlements:

The Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC) established a trading presence in India during the 17th century. They primarily focused on the coastal regions, including the Coromandel Coast (present-day Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh) and Malabar Coast (present-day Kerala). The Dutch had trading posts and forts in places like Pulicat, Nagapattinam, Cochin, and Surat. However, their influence declined over time, and by the late 18th century, they had largely lost control of their Indian possessions to the British.

2. French Settlements:

The French East India Company (Compagnie française des Indes orientales) also sought to establish trading posts in India during the 17th century. Their main centers of influence were Pondicherry (Puducherry), Chandannagar, Mahe, Yanam, and Karaikal, collectively known as the French Settlements. The French had to contend with both the British and local Indian rulers, leading to several conflicts, including the Carnatic Wars. Eventually, following the British victory in the Battle of Wandiwash in 1760, the French influence in India declined, and by the mid-19th century, the British had gained control over most of their former territories.

3. Portuguese Settlements:

The Portuguese were the earliest European power to establish a presence in India. They arrived in the early 16th century and initially focused on trade, particularly in spices. The Portuguese set up several colonies and trading posts, including Goa, Daman, Diu, and Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Goa became the capital of the Portuguese Estado da Índia, which covered a significant part of the western coast of India. However, the Portuguese gradually lost their control to the British and were ultimately driven out of India in 1961, when India annexed Goa, Daman, and Diu.

4. British Settlements:

The British East India Company arrived in India during the early 17th century and gradually expanded their influence over the years. They established trading posts and fortified settlements in key locations, such as Calcutta (Kolkata), Madras (Chennai), and Bombay (Mumbai). The British gradually gained control over vast territories through a combination of diplomacy, alliances with local rulers, and military conquest. By the mid-19th century, the British had consolidated their power and established the British Raj, ruling over the entire Indian subcontinent until India gained independence in 1947.

In summary, while the Dutch, French, Portuguese, and British all had settlements and influence in India at various points in history, it was ultimately the British who emerged as the dominant colonial power and held the most significant control over the Indian subcontinent.

The Carnatic 00

The Carnatic Wars, also known as the Karnatic Wars, were a series of military conflicts that took place in southeastern India during the 18th century. This ryegion, known as the Carnatic, encompassed a coastal strip stretching from Nellore in the north to the Tamil country in the south, and its population consisted mainly of Kannada-speaking people. The Carnatic Wars saw the British, French, Marathas, and the Kingdom of Mysore competing for control over this strategically significant territory.

These conflicts arose from succession disputes in both the Carnatic and Hyderabad regions, which provided an opportunity for European powers to intervene and support rival claimants. At the outset, the French, led by Joseph-François Dupleix, the governor of Pondicherry from 1742 to 1754, achieved considerable success in both the Carnatic and Hyderabad. The French officer Charles-Joseph Patissier, Marquis de Bussy-Castelnau, exerted control over Hyderabad for a duration of seven years. However, the ambitions of the French were curtailed by the British East India Company, under the leadership of Robert Clive, who defeated the French claimant in 1751. The Seven Years' War (1756-1763) witnessed the deployment of French and British armies to South India. The French suffered a significant defeat at the Battle of Wandiwash in 1760, following which the British captured Pondicherry in 1761.

Subsequently, the British consolidated their control over the Carnatic region through the Nawab, who became heavily indebted to the East India Company and its officers. The outcome of the Carnatic Wars significantly impacted the balance of power in the Indian subcontinent, as the British solidified their dominance while French influence waned. These conflicts set the stage for the subsequent Mysore Wars and laid the groundwork for British colonial rule in India.

The Carnatic Wars played a crucial role in the history of European colonial expansion in India, showcasing the intense competition among European powers for control over Indian territories and resources. These conflicts underscored the strategies employed by the British, particularly their alliances with compliant local rulers, enabling them to maximize their profits at the expense of the local population.

Ultimately, the Carnatic Wars reshaped the geopolitical landscape of India, with the British emerging as the dominant force in the region. Their triumph in these conflicts marked a significant stride towards establishing British hegemony over the Indian subcontinent. This victory paved the way for centuries of British colonial rule, leaving a profound impact on the history, culture, and destiny of the Indian people.

The Battle of Plassey

The Battle of Plassey, fought in the mid-1700s, holds a pivotal place in the history of British dominion over the Indian subcontinent. During this era, various European trading companies, including the British East India Company, established fortified trading posts across Asia and the Pacific. These posts not only facilitated commercial activities but also served as strategic defenses against rival European powers and local Maratha threats.

In 1756, Siraj-ud-Daula, the young nawab (Muslim ruler) of Bengal, issued an order for the European trading companies to dismantle their fortifications. While most companies complied, the British defied the directive. As a consequence, Siraj-ud-Daula captured the English trading post at Kassim Bazaar and laid siege to the British stronghold in Calcutta (now Kolkata). After a mere four days of resistance, the English commander in Calcutta, overwhelmed and fearful, fled the city with some of his men, abandoning the rest of the garrison. The remaining captives were confined in a cramped space infamously known as the Black Hole of Calcutta, where it was claimed that the majority of them suffocated. However, the accuracy of this account has been subjected to skepticism by historians.

Meanwhile, the British were actively engaged in countering French influence globally, including their possessions on the Indian subcontinent. The French held settlements on the southeast and southwest coasts, as well as in Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka) and Bengal, with their headquarters located in Pondicherry on the southeastern coast. Upon receiving news of Siraj-ud-Daula's attack, the British fleet and army stationed in Madras were dispatched to retaliate. Robert Clive, a former civil servant who had become a military leader in the subcontinent, commanded the fleet. In January 1757, the British successfully reconquered Calcutta, and later that year, Clive negotiated a treaty with Siraj-ud-Daula that secured more favorable terms for the British. Seizing the opportunity, Clive also took action against the French by destroying their trading post at Chandernagore (present-day Chandannagar).

Although the British had reached a new trade agreement with Siraj-ud-Daula, Clive desired a ruler who would be more compliant with British interests. This sentiment was shared by many merchants and bankers in Bengal who yearned for a leader who would foster a business-friendly environment. In a conspiracy with Siraj-ud-Daula's opponents, including Mir Jafar, his commander-in-chief and father-in-law, Clive organized a small British force to confront Siraj-ud-Daula's army. The Battle of Plassey, which took place in a dense mangrove swamp in Bengal in 1757, became the decisive moment that solidified British control over the subcontinent. Despite being heavily outnumbered, the British possessed superior cannons, and through cunning tactics and deception, they sowed chaos within Siraj-ud-Daula's ranks, securing an effortless victory.

In the aftermath of the battle, Siraj-ud-Daula was hunted down and killed, while Mir Jafar was installed as the new nawab of Bengal. This marked a significant turning point as the British gained substantial control over the region. The British reaped immense economic benefits, while Bengal, which was once renowned as one of the most fertile areas in the world, began to experience an economic decline from which it has not fully recovered to this day. Furthermore, the British wielded the power to appoint and dismiss the Nawabs of Bengal according to their own discretion, further consolidating their dominance in the region. The Battle of Plassey, therefore, stands as a crucial milestone in the establishment of British supremacy in the Indian subcontinent and the subsequent exploitation of its resources and wealth.

Shalimar Link Road: A Journey Through Nostalgia and Transformation

09th July 2023

Shalimar link road holds a special place in my heart. It used to connect Mughalpura with the grand and historic Grand Trunk Road at Shalimar Garden. Oh, how things have changed since I was a child growing up in the 80s! Nowadays, you'll find tall shopping malls on both sides of the road, with a narrow strip of Krebs stone dividing the traffic lanes.

Every morning, water carriers "mashkis" carrying their traditional water containers sprinkle water along the sides of the road to moisten the road surface and minimize dust, making the environment cleaner and more pleasant for travelers and pedestrians., I would eagerly hop on my father's Yamaha 80 motorcycle as he took me to school. As time passed, my two younger siblings joined us on this daily journey. One hurdle we often faced was the railway crossing at Mughalpura. Sometimes, we would find ourselves waiting for what felt like an eternity as a freight train passed by.

When my father got transferred away from Lahore for a few years, we had to find different ways to reach school. We ended up taking the Volvo bus, either route 56 or 57. Unfortunately, the Volvo drivers weren't always kind to us students, and they rarely stopped the bus for us. Since the road wasn't very wide, we would keep our fingers crossed, hoping that a traffic light would force another vehicle to pause, allowing the Volvo bus to slow down and pick us up.

Although Tonga rides were available up to Saddar Bazaar, we avoided them in the mornings because they took too long. 

During my free time, I reveled in the joy of riding my trusty black BMX Hercules bike through the renowned Ramgarh, Ganj, and Soekarno Bazaar, all located along the vibrant Shalimar link road. Interestingly, Soekarno Bazaar was named after the Indonesian president who visited Pakistan during the Bhutto government.

In those days, the central median on the road was wider, spanning around 6 to 8 feet. It was adorned with a protective steel fence and decorated with grass, and various trees. Families, kids, and groups of people would gather there in the afternoon, enjoying each other's company. Being a food enthusiast, I had my Favorite food spots, like Bilu ki Chat in Ganj Bazaar and Haji ka Falooda, a delightful milk ice cream with noodles near Soekarno Bazaar.

The nostalgia floods back as I think about the wonderful cinemas that graced Shalimar link road. The names were like magic: Al-Riyaz, Anguri, Sahar, Shalimar, and Shabnam. Shalimar cinema stood tall and proud with its captivating inverted 'W' shape and its vibrant blue exterior. Each day, it treated us to three delightful movie shows, starting in the afternoon and continuing until the late hours of midnight. Oh, and on Fridays, they had an additional matinee show! The anticipation was so strong that people would gather at the center green belt park on Shalimar link road many hours before the short start, eagerly waiting to secure their precious tickets.  Long lines of eager movie enthusiasts, standing patiently or sometimes engaged in playful banter, all yearning for the chance to step into the magical world of cinema Yet, it indeed was a golden era for cinema in Pakistan, and families found immense joy in this beloved form of entertainment. The intervals during the films were something special. It was like a mini carnival as the fast-food sellers would enter the cinema, tempting us with their delectable treats. The aroma filled the air, and we indulged in these tasty delights while eagerly waiting for the movie to resume. However, if someone accidentally crossed the path of the projector, oh, the uproar that ensued! The entire hall would erupt in shouts and protests, reminding the unwitting offender to be more cautious. Ticket prices varied, and the galleries and boxes were considered the most prestigious and expensive seating area, almost like a status symbol. It was a privilege to watch the movies from those elevated seats. On the other hand, the first-row tickets were the most affordable.

Enthusiasm and devotion marked the celebration of Eid Milad un-Nabi on the Shalimar link road as processions and parades were organized. These vibrant processions involved large gatherings of people who marched through the streets, carrying green flags, banners, and religious slogans. They recited praises and sang naats (poems) in honor of Prophet Muhammad. The surroundings were adorned with lights, banners, and green-colored flags or ribbons, symbolizing the significance of the day. Streets and public places were also embellished to create a festive atmosphere. Ramgarh, Ganj, and Soekarno Bazaar were adorned extensively, attracting visitors from all parts of the city who came to witness the beautifully decorated bazaars. A platform showcased models of the Kaaba and Masjid Nabvi.

As part of the Eid Milad un-Nabi celebrations, the community engaged in the distribution of food and sweets, known as "langar." This act of generosity and gratitude aimed to express appreciation for the blessings bestowed upon them. Additionally, many individuals organized gatherings called "Milad," where they congregated to listen to religious lectures and speeches about the life and teachings of Prophet Muhammad. These gatherings typically took place in mosques, community centers, or private homes.

As time passed, the film industry faced a decline. The easy availability of video cassette recorders reduced the number of cinemagoers, as people could now enjoy movies in the comfort of their homes. The cinema owners found it increasingly challenging to cover expenses, and they were left with no choice but to sell the land where the cinemas once stood. Shabnam Cinema transformed into Shabnam Centre. Al-Riyaz made way for the Al-Madina Electronics Centre. Sahar was transformed into residential quarters. And where Shalimar Cinema once enchanted us, Shahnaz Hospital now stands. Anguri Cinema's building was the last one dismantled to make space for a new shopping mall.

In Mughalpura, there were several shops that sold garlands made of flowers and currency. Learning shorthand and typewriter writing were considered valuable skills for job opportunities after completing matriculation, and there were numerous centers along Shalimar link road near the entrance of Ganj Bazaar.

The traditional method of extracting mustard oil with the help of oxen in Punjab, India, is commonly known as "kachhi ghani" or "kolhu" (also spelled as "kohlu" or "kohlu"). One such setup in a shop was present at Mughalpura.

In Mughalpura, there was a well-known building called Jahaz Building. It had a concrete model of an airplane on top of it. Jahaz Building was a popular shopping mall back then, and it had many shoe stores on the ground floor, offering various brands of shoes.

Another noteworthy place on the road was the famous Mughalpura police station. In the 80s, the popular drama series "Andhera Ujala" was filmed there, attracting hundreds of people eager to catch a glimpse of the late actor Qavi Khan. Adjacent to the police station, there used to be a spacious cricket ground, which is now replaced by a PSO petrol pump. In those days, a few tall trees adorned the area around the cricket ground.

At the Majha wala ada (Cow Stand) stop, there was the renowned Millet School for boys. The school was known for two things: its students consistently achieved high marks in matriculation exams, and its strict headmaster who had a reputation for using a stick to discipline his students.

Furthermore, at Majhawala, there was a large marshy area where people would dispose of their garbage. It was common to see vultures circling the place, but sadly, they have disappeared from Lahore completely.

There existed four pre-partition Sarais along Shalimar Link Road: Ramgarh, Majha Wala Adha, Ganj Bazaar, and Mughalpura. Each Sarai had gateways and a central courtyard. Presently, three of them retain some remnants. After the creation of Pakistan, these Sarais were allocated to migratory families.

There was always a huge rush in the mornings at Hakeem Chena Wala, located in front of Ramgarh Bazaar, as he served every customer for free. My father used to tell me a story about a customer who came daily from the Railway workshops, who was short of money. He would eat every day without paying, thinking that the shopkeeper, Hakeem, didn't notice. One day, when he received his salary, he paid for all the days he had eaten. In response, Hakeem told him that he could continue eating for free if he wanted to. That was the culture in Lahore back in those days.

Sahowaari, another colony situated on Shalimar Link Road, was originally a village prior to the partition. It derived its name from Sahoo, who owned a significant portion of the land in that village. Over time, it has transformed into a concrete jungle.

Among the famous doctors on Shalimar link road at that time were Captain Dr. Aftab and Captain Dr. Ghanzfar Ali Shah. Both were great doctors, and the latter saved my younger brother's life from Meningitis.

There was another sports ground near the oxygen factory, where now Total pumping station was made. There were a number of plant nurseries present on Shalimar link road.

The grave of Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, also known as Mian Wadda, is nestled one mile south of the exquisite Shalimar Gardens. During the reign of Akbar, in the year 1008 A.H. (1599 A.D.), Shaikh Muhammad Ismail constructed an adjoining school, known as Madrassa, with the primary aim of imparting Quranic education. The Madrassa boasted numerous cells to accommodate faqirs (Sufi ascetics) and a splendid mosque.

In the 90s at the junction of Shalimar link road, and Grand Trunk Road the Late PPP leader and prime minister conducted a massive political gathering. Her helicopter landed in the parking area of Shalimar Garden. Muammar Gaddafi When he came to Pakistan to attend the second Islamic Summit Conference in 1974, he visited Shalimar Garden while traveling on Shalimar Link road.

Before the creation of Pakistan, the Ramgarh area on Shalimar Link Road was a predominantly Hindu neighborhood. It comprised narrow streets and was home to numerous pre-partition buildings that belonged to Hindu families, which still stand to this day.

Opposite Anguri cinema, there once stood Anguri Nursery. Interestingly, during the Mughal era, historically Anguri Bagh was present at the same location. The nursery featured a wall constructed using small Mughal-era bricks. Notably, this fortified wall has loopholes, also known as crenels, at the bottom section. These openings served a specific purpose for guns and other ranged weapons. Some parts of this historical wall remain intact today,

My grandparents, Nana and Nani, resided in the Bukhari building near Ganj Bazaar, while my parents' house was situated behind Shalimar Garden. Every year, the occasion of Mela Cheragh would transform Shalimar Link Road into a festive environment. It was a sight to behold as devotees would gather, appearing in rallies and dancing to the beats of dhol drums. They carried chadors adorned with Islamic verses, intending to offer them at the tomb of Madhu Lal Hussain.

During my childhood, at the tender age of eight or nine, I had the opportunity to accompany my Nana on foot from Mughalpura to Shalimar Bagh to attend the Mela Chiragh. The atmosphere was electric, and a massive audience would flock to the Mela, including those who also visited the cinemas during the Mela Chiragh days. This event attracted a diverse range of visitors, both from the local community and nearby villages. People would come to soak in the vibrant atmosphere, indulge in delectable traditional food, explore handicraft shops, and revel in captivating music and dance performances.

For me, the most fascinating aspect of the Mela was the Lucky Irani Circus, which would only grace us with its presence for three days a week. Lions, elephants, and various other acts made it one of the finest circuses in Pakistan.

As I reflect on the memories and experiences woven into the fabric of Shalimar Link Road, I realize that it has evolved and transformed over time. The road that once connected Mughalpura to the grandeur of the historic Grand Trunk Road now bears witness to the change. Yet, amidst the changes, it remains a testament to the cherished moments, the vibrant festivals, the enchanting cinemas, and the lively atmosphere that shaped my childhood. Shalimar Link Road will forever hold a special place in my heart.

Sarais functionality in Shah Jahan's Reign: An Italian Traveler's Morse Stephens account

Introduction:

During the 17th century, the Mughal Empire flourished under the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan, a period characterized by remarkable cultural and architectural achievements. Within this historical context, European traveler H. Morse Stephens provides valuable insights into the operation and significance of Sarais, fortified resting places for travelers across the empire. This essay explores the functioning of Sarais during Shah Jahan's tenure, shedding light on their architectural features, security measures, and amenities that catered to the needs of diverse travelers.

Sarais as Fortified Havens:

The Sarais, or sarães, strategically dotted the Mughal Empire, serving as crucial waystations for weary travelers navigating the vast realm. These impressive structures resembled fortified enclaves, boasting sturdy walls, bastions, and formidable gates. Constructed primarily from stone or brick, sarais were designed to withstand potential attacks and provide a safe haven for those seeking respite from the perils of the road.

Gate Closure and Security Measures:

Every Sarai housed an appointed official responsible for safeguarding its inhabitants. At sundown, this official dutifully closed the gates, signaling the necessity for travelers to be vigilant about their belongings. A distinct warning was issued three times each morning before the gates swung open. This precautionary measure allowed travelers to verify their possessions and, if necessary, report any suspected theft. The deliberate delay in opening the gates until the missing item was found served as a deterrent, compelling potential thieves to abandon stolen goods to avoid detection.

Thieves and Dogs of Hindustän:

Stephens intriguingly alludes to the cunning nature of dogs in Hindustän, remarking on their ability to outsmart unsuspecting travelers. 

Architectural Layout and Amenities:

Sarais were expansive complexes designed to accommodate large numbers of travelers and their accompanying entourage. Some of these sarais could accommodate up to 800 to 1,000 individuals, along with their horses, camels, and carriages, with some even larger in scale. These structures encompassed various rooms, halls, and verandahs, creating a spacious environment for the transient population. The inclusion of trees within the courtyard provided shade and a semblance of tranquility amidst the bustling Sarai. Additionally, numerous provision shops catered to the dietary needs of travelers, ensuring a steady supply of food and necessities.

Gender-Separated Quarters:

Sarais also featured separate living quarters for men and women, acknowledging the societal norms and customs prevalent during the Mughal era. Male and female attendants undertook the responsibility of arranging rooms and beds for travelers, maintaining the privacy and comfort of all guests.

Conclusion:

Sarais played a crucial role in facilitating travel and ensuring the well-being of travelers during the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. These fortified rest houses, with their imposing architecture and security measures, provided respite and security to individuals traversing the vast expanse of the Mughal Empire. With their well-organized amenities and gender-separated quarters, sarais not only offered physical comfort but also catered to the diverse needs of travelers. The sarais of Shah Jahan's era stood as a testament to the empire's commitment to the safety and welfare of its subjects, leaving an enduring legacy in the annals of Mughal India.

The Hidden Mosque of Bukan Khan Mochi Gate Lahore

30th June 2023

The legendary horse known as Laili, held a special place in the heart of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the Sher-e-Punjab (Lion of Punjab), and resided within the Lahore Fort. Originally belonging to Yar Muhammad Khan Barakzai, the Sikh tributary governor of Peshawar, Laili was renowned for its exceptional beauty and graceful demeanor. Maharaja Ranjit Singh, known for his profound love for horses, was captivated by Laili's presence, and acquiring it came at the cost of a kingdom (Rs 60,00,000) and the lives of 12,000 soldiers.

In the royal stable overseen by Bakun/Bukun Khan, an official responsible for Maharaja Ranjit Singh's prized horses, Laili was among the many esteemed breeds. Little information is available about Bakun Khan, aside from the existence of a mosque near Mochi Gate in the Mohallah Dhal neighborhood that is attributed to him. According to references in Kenya LAL and Latief's writings, the mosque was constructed in 1841, two years after the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, during a turbulent period for the Sikh Empire in Punjab. The mosque has a garden and madrassa, although these have since disappeared over time. While the outer wall and gateway, constructed with old Nanak Shahi bricks, remain intact, most of the original components of the mosque have been replaced with new construction material.

The mosque, though small, features three arches leading to its prayer hall. A Persian verse is engraved on its main entrance. The translation of these verses into English reads, "Bukan Khan constructed this mosque of great significance, and a voice from the heavens was heard, 'This is the parallel of the Kaaba.'" This inscription signifies the grandeur and importance of the mosque in its heyday in the past.

Additionally, the mosque holds historical significance as the location where Anjuman-e-Himayat-e-Islam, an intellectual and social welfare organization, was founded. Established on September 24, 1884, in Lahore, within the same mosque attributed to Bakan Khan inside Mochi Gate, Anjuman-e-Himayat-e-Islam was founded by Khalifa Hameed-ud-Din.

Overall, the mosque associated with Bakan Khan is a testament to the rich history, architectural splendor, and cultural significance that characterized the era of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and the Sikh Empire in Lahore.