An Old Story of Rainbow over Ucchali Lake Soon Valley

Locals tell about a strange phenomenon that was observed over Ucchali Lake in 1982. A very broad and distinct rainbow appeared over the horizon of Ucchali and was seen continuously for 15 days. No scientific explanation of this has been given so far, but the locals think that the rainbow appeared because of a volcano hidden under the lakes. They also tell that because of the hidden volcano the water of the lake keeps changing color.

Flamingos Sighting at Uchali Lake Soon Valley Pakistan

02 February 2019

All Pictures are owned 
All pictures were taken at Uchali Lake Soon Valley

Given Pakistan’s geographic location, we lie at the crossroads of the bird’s migration route. They bring beauty and ecological benefits for our wetlands. One such spot is the triple complex, which consists of the Uchali, Khabeki and Jhalar lakes (Uchali being the biggest lake among covering an area of 950 hectares). The triple complex was declared a Ramsar Site, a wetland of global importance in 1996, giving it the status of a wildlife sanctuary.

I visited Uchali Lake, earlier in the month of February. The boatman told us that there were around four hundred plus flamingos on lake. Watching flamingo flying and recording it with camera was one of the best experiences of my life.

With their pink and crimson plumage, long legs and necks, and strongly hooked bills, flamingos cannot be mistaken for any other type of bird. These beauties have long fascinated people. An accurate cave painting of a flamingo, found in the south of Spain, dates back to 5,000 B.C. Today, images of flamingos are found in the literature (Alice used them as croquet mallets in Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll) and immortalized as plastic lawn ornaments

The flamingo’s pink or reddish color comes from the rich sources of carotenoid pigments (like the pigments of carrots) in the algae and small crustaceans the birds eat. We eat carotenoids, too, whenever we munch on carrots, beets, and certain other veggies, but not enough to turn us orange! American flamingos, a subspecies of greater flamingo, are the brightest, showing their true colors of red, pink, or orange on their legs, bills, and faces.

In order to fly, flamingos need to run a few paces to gather speed. This speed is not related to the ground but rather to the air, so they usually take off facing into the wind. In-flight, flamingos are quite distinctive, with their long necks stretched out in front and the equally long legs trailing behind. Their outstretched wings showcase the pretty black and red (or pink) coloration that, with slight variations, is shared by all flamingo species. When flying, flamingos flap their wings fairly rapidly and almost continuously. And, as with most other flamingo activities, they usually fly together in large flocks. The flamingos follow each other closely, using a variety of formations that help them take advantage of the wind patterns.

Flamingos are social birds that live in groups of varying sizes, from a few pairs to sometimes thousands or tens of thousands. Their numbers add to the impressiveness of ritualized flamingo displays; the purpose of these displays is to stimulate hormone production and ensure that as many birds as possible will breed.

Head-flagging: Stretching the neck with head up high and rhythmically turning the head from side to side.

Wing salute: Showing off the contrasting colors with the tail cocked and the neck outstretched.

Twist-preen: The bird twists its neck back and appears to preen its feathers with its bill quickly.

Marching: The large, tightly packed flock walks together as one, before switching direction abruptly.

Flamingos also use vocalizations and these displays to communicate between individuals or alert the group of possible danger. Their vocal repertoire includes growling, low gabbling, and nasal honking.

Scientists aren’t sure. There is less heat lost through the leg if it is tucked next to the bird’s body; however, this behavior is also seen in hot climates. Another explanation is more mundane: it’s probably a comfortable position for standing. You can develop your own theory about this age-old question on your next visit to the Zoo or Safari Park, where the flamingos are always gorgeous and entertaining.

Flamingos live in lagoons or large, shallow lakes. These bodies of water may be quite salty or caustic, too much so for most other animals. In some lakes, their only animal “neighbors” are algae, diatoms, and small crustaceans. That works in the flamingo’s favor, as the birds dine on these small creatures!

Chilean, Andean, and puna flamingos are found in South America; greater and lesser flamingos live in Africa, with greater also found in the Middle East; the American or Caribbean flamingo is native to Mexico, the Caribbean, and the northernmost tip of South America.

Long legs let flamingos wade into deeper water than most other birds to look for food. And speaking of food, flamingos also have very distinctive eating habits. The bill is held upside down in the water. Flamingos feed by sucking water and mud in at the front of the bill and then pumping it out again at the sides. Here, briny plates called lamellae act like tiny filters, trapping shrimp and other small water creatures for the flamingo to eat.

The smaller puna, Andean and lesser flamingos have deeper bills and stiff lamellae. This helps them filter very fine particles, such as algae, through their bill and keep bigger particles out. Greater and Chilean flamingos are larger and feed mostly on invertebrates such as brine flies, shrimps, and mollusks. They get these food items from the bottom mud by wading in shallow water. Sometimes they swim to get their food and sometimes by “upending” (tail feathers in the air, head underwater) like ducks.

More than 700,000 guest birds started arriving in Pakistan through Indus Flyway, from Europe, Central Asian states, and India. Pakistan's wetlands are no exception to hosting enormous biodiversity of migratory birds and some indigenous fauna. Each year, hundred of thousands of birds including cranes, geese, ducks, swans, and waders migrate between their breeding grounds in the north and wintering grounds in the south.

These birds include some of the magnificent species such as demoiselle cranes and Eurasian cranes. Among them, the central population of Siberian crane migrated until its extinction in 2002. Its western population, migrating between Iran and Russia, is at the brink of extinction, while its eastern population migrating between China and Russia is threatened with alterations in its habitat that might be massive due to planned dams, official sources in Pakistan Museum of Natural History (PMNH) told APP. The migration journey starts from Siberia to Pakistan and ends in India at Bharatpur. This route is known in the international migration routes as `Indus Fly-way No 4' or `Green Route', he added.

The distance covered by birds during migration is around 4500 kilometers. The migratory bird flies from Siberia to Afghanistan, Karakorum range, across river Indus in Pakistan, and finally towards India. During their journey, the birds make stopovers at lakes and water basins at Nowshera, Tanda Dam in Kohat, Swat, Chitral, Punjab, and at Haleji, Keenjaar, and Lungsee lakes in Sindh. The Wildlife Department, he said has taken a number of measures to contain hunting of migratory birds and in this regard, work was done on organizing communities along with river Kabul and Indus.

"Earlier, before 1970 there was no rule for the protection of migratory birds. However, after Ramsar Convention in Iran and Bonn Convention in Germany, laws to protect migratory birds were enacted". About reasons behind migration, he said cold weather compel the birds to move towards warmer areas, adding these birds have inherited a natural phenomenon of moving from one place to another for reproduction purpose.

Hindu Temple at Sakesar

I visited Sakesar first time in 2012. Sakesar is highest mountain of Pothohar. Its height is 1,522 m. It lies on the outer fringes of the Soon Valley in Khushab District. The endless scenic vista of Soon Valley can be seen from this top.

One small Hindu temple still located at present PAF base.  In old times at start of desi month Vesakhi; a Vesakhi festival celebrated at Sakesar. In vicinity of this temple a Pond was located, pilgrims used to take bath; they have faith that it will clean soul along their bodies.

Sakesar entrance gates are designated with different numbers.  Before the gate number five on adjacent road a huge boulder is still standing. Different stories have been associated with this stone. In local language they called this boulder, ’Chaada waali Pari’.  It was believed that   that Hindu Deity Krishna visited this area and raised this boulder with his hand.

 It is said that those Hindus pilgrims, who used to visit Sakesar temple in past; as symbol of gratitude they first humbly kiss this boulder and place their offerings on it.

A journey between Civilizations, my Visit to Kalash

01 July, 2013

My first interaction with Kalash came from my father’s travelling photographs. He visited Kalash somewhere in 80’s. The women in black robes always gave me impression of witches of some dark side. Kalash was always been a mystery for me, the dancing of kalash girls on drum beats always brought me to unfathomable state.

Since my childhood, I have been listening sensational stories from my father about this region; lowari pass and  43 road turns, the fast winds of at lowari top, the glacier from which 40 trucks ice filled daily, the unforgettable view of Trichmir from hotel Pameer Chitral.

 I always wished to visit Chitral and Kafirstan areas but could not find time due to shortage of leaves and long travelling distance. But as you might have heard, where there is Will there is a way.  It has been my ambitious desire to travel around, luckily my company was bidding for a hydropower project at Shishi River near darosh so I got the opportunity to find some time to visit my dreamy place, Kalash.

We left from Ayun, the nearest town and doorway to all three valleys of Kalash. Further to that the valley was quite  close and mountains were of medium height. The fast river flowing along the road which locals called “ayun ka pani”.  I remembered the movie, “Lost World,” and found myself entering a land of the same age. After crossing a bridge which was at junction of two Nalas, one coming from Rumbur and other from Bumberet. We headed toward Bumberet, I was mesmerized rather spelled bound when I saw first Kalasha girl walking across the street.  I entered in mysterious world. There was a group of Kalasha girls veiled in white dopta coming from school. It was interesting and surprising to see the culture is mixing.

 We hired rooms in Benazir hotel. There is PTDC and few other good hotels as well. PTDC and other hotels lawns were decorated with colorful roses. After taking tea we decided to explore this mysterious land. We asked our driver to take us to the ending point of the valley. There was a small market consisting of few shops. Mainly the shops are of Handicrafts and Kalasha Craftsmanship’s. I saw two old kalasha sisters owner of small handicraft shop. Their names were, “Murghi” and Sheena. “Murghi” son was owner of Jinah hotel at beginning of valley.  I sat with Murghi, she was above 70 and was very friendly. I offered her cold drinks and we start communicating. She told that recently one of her son and daughter were converted into Islam and mentioned her husband death with a sigh of grief.  Her source of income was a small land and that shop. During our conversation an old men sit near to us. I asked from, “Murghi” who is he? She told, he is a Nooristani living in mountains near to afghan border.   She asked one question repeatedly, ‘’waha kaisa mosam hota ha”. I replied her, “waha bhot udas mosam hota ha”.   She smiled and it is unforgettable for me. During my all conversation I felt as I was sitting with my some old relatives

We met with a group of lahorites who reached there a day before , one of the group member was not enjoying the weather rather arguing with others and saying, “is sa acha tha ka Lahore ki nahar ma chalang laga du, na ya picture khanchana dati ha aur na baat”.

My two fellow colleagues were tired and they were more interested in finding some place to eat. Meanwhile I found a local guide to whom I gave nominal money and he took me to the other side of river.  In front, open coffins with visible bones were spread around in the cemetery. The Kalash do not bury the dead and their funeral rituals are just as distinctive. The deceased are not mourned.  Their bodies are instead propped up for display at the Jestak Temple which is named after the goddess who protects pregnant women, marriage and family. Family members visit and scribe images of the deceased with coal on the temple walls. Fresh milk is offered up on an alter to the goddess in order to protect the family during this period.

I took few pictures and started to move back suddenly another kalashi boy reached there and he started arguing with my guide that foreigners are not allowed here, why he brought me here. My guide got confused and I was feeling guilty. I crossed the bridge and reached near to my friends. They questioned me from where I was coming I smiled and answered watching river. There was small stall of “Daal Chawal” there and my colleagues were already eating from there. The cook was from Sialkot. I could not eat more than one spoon, it cannot be described more because I just remembered vomiting after itL.

Some people think the Kalasha origins were linked with nooristan, few thought they are Indian’s and some believe they were part of Alexander army left there. At least they got some benefit from Greek Government they constructed schools for Kalasha children and did some efforts to preserve their culture as well.

We again reached hotel and hired a new local guide; he took us to another graveyard but of small dimension as I saw before. It was almost evening, the surrounding of graveyard got enigmatic; I strongly sensed that there was something between us but not visible to our eyes. Might be a devil sent by Kalasha so that we run way without entering to their places.  There was a new dead body present in graveyard and smell coming out of it was indescribable making our mind propel. We entered their surrounding area two wooden statues of same shape placed at entrance. The guide told us these protected the residents from strangers and spells. We entered the mysterious world, the streets were vacant and after seeing us the Kalasha turned away or move inside their houses I did not know why but they were afraid for mixing with us.  It might be possible that they are considering us aliens who might ruin their culture and civilization.

In start of entrance there was a building made of rocks and wood, on its entrance there was a notice board highlighting not to touch the walls or door and please respect and protect kalasha culture. That building was for women’s who are pregnant are having menses cycle.

There was group of 4 to 8 years age of kalasha children come across. They asked, “paisa da.” I gave all small currency and coins which I had at that time. One more boy joined the group and asked for the same I told ‘’beta I don’t have ‘’ and starting to move forward that boy suddenly took my wallet out of trousers and wanted to escape but I grasp him. I did not say anything to him except moving forward.

 Then our guide took us to a home of an old kalasha woman. It was a three story house. He served us with water in clean glasses. I was confused when she said, “rang wala pani be ha”. Our guide was smiling it was offer of some beer or alcohol. I refused with smile. I checked the inside of room it was dark inside, floor was carpeted on center there was cabinet decorated with glasses and dishes. There was a strange type of smell inside and it’s not easy for me to breathe. On entrance of room there was two small hand made drawings. It was for some protection. The most astonishing aspect of this tribe is the working relationship between Kalasha men and women. The tribe does not separate between male and female or shun contact between the sexes. The women do not hide their faces. Instead they dance in the open, drink wine and express themselves freely. They also have a lot of social freedom including marriage-by-elopement even if they are already married. This is one of their customs – the prospective husband has to pay double dowry to the ex-husband. Unlike most other villages in Pakistan, Kalasha women are active members of the governing body and play a role in decision making. They tend the fields in the morning, cook, make wine in the evenings and embroider intricate designs on clothes and accessories to be sold in their handicraft stores. It appeared to me that the women ran the community. Men on the other hand, were seen chatting with others, taking care of the children or with cattle in the hills.

My friends were extremely tired; in fact it was me who drag them there. They sat on a place and asked me to see the area. I just entered the next street alone and was stunned in fact spell bound; there was a fairy in front of me with blue eyes, the fairy of witch land. She was simple, delicate long haired out of this world. I could not move my eyes away from her. She was very serious having no smile and impression on face. She suddenly speaks and asked silently to come and see her shop. She had a small kalashi craftsmanship shop. I did not have any interest in it I was only looking at her eyes. I asked her can I took a photo she did not answer. I did not take the photo but saved it in my mind for ever. Her name was Gulbibi and I can bet that she was prettier then million roses. I will visit kalash again only to see her that was the promise I did with myself when I saw her eyes last time.

There was one thing spinning in my mind at that time. My father is 70 years of age. He was able to visit this place only once in his life time and he still remembered it as he visited it yesterday. It might be same for me too. So I wanted to take all the memories of all the secrets which I have to remember rest of my life.

The next place we visited was Rikhinyi. This place has a big room where men, women, and children altogether perform certain traditions. Every clan makes his own temple. The material to make a temple is gathered by the people who are making a temple for themselves. When the temple gets completed; the dedication ceremony takes place. This ceremony is called “Hand sarik” which mean, “to assemble in the temple”. Everybody is invited in the custom; people from all clans, valleys and ages. When the people from different clans and villages or valleys come to celebrate the ceremony a custom called “dur ghriik” which means to block the door in order to stop people entering the new temple. The guests struggle to get in because the door is blocked by the strongest people in the clan. There was a big fire made under the hole in the roof for exhaust. Sometimes people jump inside the temple from the top saving them from the fire. When someone from the guest clan enters the temple he just beat the musical instrument inside there and then the blockage is released. My friends got some energy and joined me at front of this building. No one was willing to enter inside except the guide and me. I entered and took few pictures.

We move out and it was almost dark, we also found two wooden statues placed outside the locality but they were of different type as we saw at start. My friends were extremely tired and on my mind there was only one thing spinning which I mentioned above that this might be my only day /night in kalash and I have to take all the memories with me.  My friends slept at 7:30 pm in hotel rooms and I was in no mood to sleep too early. I took my camera and tripod and asked a local kitchen boy who is chokidar at night that I am going to hillside please don’t lock the gate. That guy spent thirteen years in Lahore working there. He smiled and asked, “ bhi jan lahorion ko chen nae ha”. I took few night shots of stars and hotel from there.  It was mysterious but I still able to spent two hour sitting alone watching sky mountains and moreover absorbing the memories of this mysterious land  for my rest of life………….

It’s a personal opinion a wish; that the culture of Kalasha be remain same. It should not be mixed with others and one last desire a Spanish Zoologist Jordi  Federico Magraner  was resting in local in chitral for 15 year before his death in search of, “snow man”. He was also buried there. I saw his grave in kalasha graveyard. I wished to spent my last years of life here but my search is solitude……………..

The Forgotten Chapter of Soon Valley, ‘the Chaada Waali Pari’ Sakesar

All pictures are owned(Visited Sakesar 03-02-2019)(Visited Amb Sharif Temples 25-02-2018)Reference/Guidance Waadi Soon Sakesar by Muhammad Sarwar Khan Awan

02-014-2019

Chaada Wali Pari, Where Hindu Pilgrims place there offerings 

I visited Sakesar first time in 2012. Sakesar is highest mountain of Pothohar. Its height is 1,522 m. It lies on the outer fringes of the Soon Valley in Khushab District. The endless scenic vista of Soon Valley can be seen from this top.

Scenic Vista of Soon Valley

The area is restricted and is under the control of Pakistan Air Force, they have installed radar at top for defence purpose.

Sakesar has historical importance since ancient times, pre-historic Hindu temples and remains of ruinous fort located nearby in Amb Sharif village. These structures supposed to be constructed before Islam has arrived in this area.  

Amb Temples

Remains of Ruinous Fort

One small Hindu temple still located at present PAF base.  In old times at start of desi month Vesakhi; a Vesakhi festival celebrated at Sakesar. In vicinity of this temple a Pond was located, pilgrims used to take bath; they have faith that it will clean soul along their bodies.

Small Hindu Temple at Sakesar

Sakesar entrance gates are designated with different numbers.  Before the gate number five on adjacent road a huge boulder is still standing. Different stories have been associated with this stone. In local language they called this boulder, ’Chaada waali Pari’.  It was believed that   that Hindu Deity Krishna visited this area and raised this boulder with his hand.

 It is said that those Hindus pilgrims, who used to visit Sakesar temple in past; as symbol of gratitude they first humbly kiss this boulder and place their offerings on it.

In front of Chaada Wali Pari Boulder, you can see an old square edifice which is constructed of stone masonry and lime mortar. It might be used as Shelter by by Hindu yogis. 

Ancient Square Edifice 

During excavation of this area an old construction settlement was discovered.  Inside this stucture old lamp and copper coins were found.

The Migratory Bird Paradise - Uchali lake, view taken in the way to Sakesar

Pink Flamingos the siberian migratory birds flying in front of Sakesar Base