Friday 30 August 2019

My Visit to Stepwell (Baoli) at Wan Bhachran Constructed in Sher Shah Suri Era (2018)


25.02.2018
(All images copyright 2018 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)



I became aware of this Baoli through an article I read in the daily newspaper back in 2007. The article provided detailed information about the historical significance of this structure and expressed concern about the lack of efforts by government and historical departments to preserve the site.

Water holds significant importance in Hindu mythology, representing a boundary between heaven and earth, known as tirtha. The sacredness of water is widely acknowledged across the subcontinent, evident in the extraordinary and monumental architecture that showcases the engineering achievements of designers and builders in the region. Stepwells, considered manmade tirthas, served not only as sources of drinking water but also as cool sanctuaries for bathing, prayer, and meditation. The concept of stepwells may have originated to ensure water availability during periods of drought.

Evidence of steps leading to water levels in artificially constructed reservoirs can be found in sites of the Indus Valley Civilization, such as Dholavira and Mohenjo-Daro. Mohenjo-Daro, for instance, features cylindrical brick-lined wells that may serve as predecessors to stepwells. The earliest examples of rock-cut stepwells in India date back to 200-400 AD.

The Uperkot caves in Junagadh contain the earliest known bath-like pond reached by steps, dating back to the 4th century. Nearby, the Navghan Kuvo, a well with a circular staircase, is another example. Its construction is attributed to the Western Satrap (200-400 AD) or Maitraka (600-700 AD) periods, though some suggest a later date in the 11th century. Additionally, the nearby Adi Kadi ni Vav was constructed either in the second half of the 10th century or the 15th century.

Stepwells in Dhank, Rajkot district, date back to 550-625 AD, followed by stepped ponds in Bhinmal (850-950 AD). The construction of stepwells reached its peak during Muslim rule from the 11th to 16th century. Initially utilized as an art form by Hindus, the practice of constructing stepwells became more prevalent during this period due to the harsh climate and water scarcity in regions like Gujarat and Rajasthan. Wells were seen as the most reliable source of continuous water supply.

The stepwells, known as vavs, came to be more than just water sources. The architectural design around the wells transformed them into subterranean retreats. A typical vav consists of two elements: a vertical shaft with a thick surrounding wall to maximize water retention, and a series of imposing flights of steps built over an inclined passage leading from the ground level to the water level deep below.

Sher Shah Suri and Wan Bhachran Baoli

Sher Shah Suri, the founder of the Sur Empire in northern India, left a lasting legacy during his brief reign from 1540 to 1545. Among his achievements were the construction of the Grand Trunk Road, the introduction of civic and military reforms, the issuance of the first Rupiya coin, and the establishment of a speedy postal system across the subcontinent. His foresight and futuristic vision can be observed in the facilities along the Grand Trunk Road, designed to cater to travelers’ needs.

Wan Bhachran, located in Mianwali District of Punjab province in Pakistan, was a town and administrative subdivision. The term 'Wan' means 'a well' in Punjabi, while 'Bhachran' refers to the Bhachar clan predominant in the region. Sher Shah Suri built this baoli (stepwell) in the 16th century as part of his efforts to construct similar structures along the routes taken by his army. This baoli served as a source of fresh water not only for humans but was also designed to accommodate large animals like elephants.

The availability of freshwater attracted settlers to the area, and the first tribe to establish itself there was the "Bachar Tribe," contributing to the name "Wan Bhachran," meaning "The Well of Bachars." It was previously known as "Khichi" before the colonial period but later recognized as "Wan Bhachran." The main tribes in the area include Bhachar, Miana Bhatti, Thethia Rajputs, and Ghanjera.

Baoli at Wan Bhachran: Location and Architecture

The coordinates of Wan Bhachran baoli are 32°25'1.08"N and 71°41'44.93"E.

The baoli consists of two main parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers, and steps providing access to the well. The lift well has an inner diameter of 19.26 ft and is constructed using kiln bricks with a wall thickness of approximately 2 ft.

The inclined landing portion of the baoli has a width of 8 ft and a length of 100 ft. The last buried tunnel section spans 80 ft in length.

At the start of the stairway, two minarets stand, resembling medieval pillars known as 'Kos Minarets.' These minarets were constructed to ensure visibility from a distance for passing caravans and travelers.

Overall, baolis like the one at Wan Bhachran exemplify the ingenuity and architectural prowess of their builders, while also serving as important water sources and places of retreat and contemplation in the arid regions of the subcontinent.

After eleven years, in 2018, I had the opportunity to visit this place. To my dismay, the condition of the site was appalling. The well was filled with garbage, dense bushes had grown around the staircase, and sewage from nearby houses had contaminated the area. It was disheartening to see that no fencing or rehabilitation work had been undertaken by the responsible authorities to protect this site for future generations. This historical gem is at risk of disappearing within a few short years.

It is disconcerting to witness the neglect and lack of preservation efforts towards such an important historical edifice. The article I had read in 2007 had already raised awareness about the need for action, but it seems that little has been done since then. The authorities should recognize the significance of this site and take immediate steps to restore and protect it, ensuring its survival for future generations to appreciate and learn from