RAJA GIRA FORT (2019)

View of Raja Gira, Swat River flowing in the background

On one scorching day in April 2019, we embarked on a visit to the remarkable Raja Gira Castle, perched upon the hilly slopes of Udegram. Udegram, a quaint town situated downhill from the castle, found itself on the western side. Flowing to its west, the majestic Swat River gracefully meanders, eventually merging with the Panjkora River downstream in the Malakand District near Totakan.

Legend has it that approximately a thousand years ago, the very town of Udegram became the battleground for an epic clash between Mahmud of Ghaznavid's army and Raja Gira, the last Buddhist king. Raja Gira, displaying immense courage and valor, valiantly fought against the formidable forces of Mahmud. However, in the face of overwhelming numbers, he ultimately succumbed to defeat. This marked the end of a 1,300-year reign of Buddhism monarchy in the valley, forever altering the course of history.

Delving into the realm of historical exploration, we encounter the notable figure of Sir Marc Aurel Stein. A Hungarian-born British archaeologist, Sir Aurel Stein (1862-1943) gained recognition for his extensive expeditions and archaeological discoveries in Central Asia. His contributions remain highly regarded in the field.

The site of Raja Gira, its ruins meticulously documented by Sir Aurel Stein between 1930 and 1938, sprawls across an expansive area characterized by partially man-made terracing on the northern slope of the mountain. Positioned roughly one hundred meters below the renowned "Castle," this location offers a commanding view over the present-day village of Udegram nestled within the Swat Valley. According to the findings of Sir Aurel Stein and the esteemed scholar Giuseppe Tucci, this region encompasses the ancient city of Ora. It is worth noting that Alexander the Great conquered Ora in 327 B.C., leaving an indelible mark on its history. Moreover, in close proximity lies Bazira (also known as Bir-kot or Ghwandai), further enriching the historical significance of the area.

Mankial Mountain Range View from Raja Gira

Vista of Swat River from Top of Raja Gira

Butteres Walls of Raja Gira

View of Raja Gira from adjacent Mountain

View of Odigram on the way towards Raja Gira

Defensive Wall of Raja Gira Fort spread in adjacent mountains

Stairs of Raja Gira 

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira 

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira located on top of cliff

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Buttress Walls of Raja Gira Fort

Defensive Walls extended on adjacent mountains

Raja Gira Fort

Raja Gira Fort 

Raja Gira Fort
In background Defensive Walls

Defensive Walls on adjacent mountains

Defensive Walls on adjacent mountains 

Defensive Walls on Adjacent Mountains

Deffensive walls

Defensive Walls on Adjacent Mountains

Defensive Walls on adjacent mountais

Defensive Walls on Adjacent Mountains

Statue of Buddha at Ghaligay Swat

19-04-2019
All fotos are owned

Source of Text Web
Essay-6 Swat Archaeology Diaries 

Situated near the quaint village of Ghaligay, approximately 18 kilometers away from Mingawara and nestled at the base of rocky slopes, a colossal statue of Buddha commands attention. This magnificent figure, facing west, proudly resides on the left side of the main road leading to Mardan. With its proximity to the left bank of the Swat River, it stands about 1 kilometer away, exuding a captivating presence.

Carved intricately into the living rock of the hillside, deep within the heart of the Swat valley, this statue stands as a testament to the rich heritage of the region. Among the many monumental stone carving Buddhas that grace the landscape, it bears witness to the illustrious past of the people of Swat, the ancient Udyana. Each stroke of the chisel represents a profound connection to the cultural legacy that has shaped this land.

Regrettably, the passage of time has not been entirely kind to this remarkable statue, as it has suffered from the touch of ignorant hands, their scratching and handling leaving their mark upon its surface. The ravages of weathering have also contributed to its partial deterioration. However, despite these challenges, the lower portion of the statue remains remarkably well-preserved, showcasing the endurance of its craftsmanship. In contrast, the upper section of the statue has suffered significant defacement, leaving only faint traces of the head and the halo that once adorned it.

Standing at a height of 4 meters, the graceful statue emanates an air of tranquility and serenity, reminiscent of the typical Gandhara Buddhas of the region, albeit in an enlarged size. Carved meticulously from marble stone, it finds its place enthroned atop a lofty seat, assuming a pose of meditation. The intricately arranged drapery, flowing in delicate folds, envelops both the body and the throne, a testament to the skill and artistry of its creators. Reflecting the later phases of Gandhara sculpture, dating back to the 7th and 8th centuries A.D., it embodies the evolving styles and influences that shaped the artistic expression of the era.

As one stands in the presence of this awe-inspiring statue, a profound sense of reverence and admiration fills the air. The fusion of natural beauty and human craftsmanship is palpable, creating a harmonious blend that transcends time and transports visitors to an era of artistic magnificence. Amidst the tranquil surroundings and the whispers of ancient stories, the colossal Buddha of Ghaligay stands as a poignant reminder of the Swat valley's glorious past and its enduring cultural legacy.

Hindu Temple at Sakesar

I visited Sakesar first time in 2012. Sakesar is highest mountain of Pothohar. Its height is 1,522 m. It lies on the outer fringes of the Soon Valley in Khushab District. The endless scenic vista of Soon Valley can be seen from this top.

One small Hindu temple still located at present PAF base.  In old times at start of desi month Vesakhi; a Vesakhi festival celebrated at Sakesar. In vicinity of this temple a Pond was located, pilgrims used to take bath; they have faith that it will clean soul along their bodies.

Sakesar entrance gates are designated with different numbers.  Before the gate number five on adjacent road a huge boulder is still standing. Different stories have been associated with this stone. In local language they called this boulder, ’Chaada waali Pari’.  It was believed that   that Hindu Deity Krishna visited this area and raised this boulder with his hand.

 It is said that those Hindus pilgrims, who used to visit Sakesar temple in past; as symbol of gratitude they first humbly kiss this boulder and place their offerings on it.

The Forgotten Chapter of Soon Valley, ‘the Chaada Waali Pari’ Sakesar

All pictures are owned(Visited Sakesar 03-02-2019)(Visited Amb Sharif Temples 25-02-2018)Reference/Guidance Waadi Soon Sakesar by Muhammad Sarwar Khan Awan

02-014-2019

Chaada Wali Pari, Where Hindu Pilgrims place there offerings 

I visited Sakesar first time in 2012. Sakesar is highest mountain of Pothohar. Its height is 1,522 m. It lies on the outer fringes of the Soon Valley in Khushab District. The endless scenic vista of Soon Valley can be seen from this top.

Scenic Vista of Soon Valley

The area is restricted and is under the control of Pakistan Air Force, they have installed radar at top for defence purpose.

Sakesar has historical importance since ancient times, pre-historic Hindu temples and remains of ruinous fort located nearby in Amb Sharif village. These structures supposed to be constructed before Islam has arrived in this area.  

Amb Temples

Remains of Ruinous Fort

One small Hindu temple still located at present PAF base.  In old times at start of desi month Vesakhi; a Vesakhi festival celebrated at Sakesar. In vicinity of this temple a Pond was located, pilgrims used to take bath; they have faith that it will clean soul along their bodies.

Small Hindu Temple at Sakesar

Sakesar entrance gates are designated with different numbers.  Before the gate number five on adjacent road a huge boulder is still standing. Different stories have been associated with this stone. In local language they called this boulder, ’Chaada waali Pari’.  It was believed that   that Hindu Deity Krishna visited this area and raised this boulder with his hand.

 It is said that those Hindus pilgrims, who used to visit Sakesar temple in past; as symbol of gratitude they first humbly kiss this boulder and place their offerings on it.

In front of Chaada Wali Pari Boulder, you can see an old square edifice which is constructed of stone masonry and lime mortar. It might be used as Shelter by by Hindu yogis. 

Ancient Square Edifice 

During excavation of this area an old construction settlement was discovered.  Inside this stucture old lamp and copper coins were found.

The Migratory Bird Paradise - Uchali lake, view taken in the way to Sakesar

Pink Flamingos the siberian migratory birds flying in front of Sakesar Base

Shrine of Shah Chiragh and seeking "HOPE"

23-09-2018

#Hope, a women sitting at shrine of #shahchiragh. She was hoping her all miseries and problems will be solved. Hope is interesting thing, patient have hope they will recovered from deadly diseases, other hope good days will came in their lives. Hope is a energy, a positive energy to bring you out from savage state . If there was no hope, ancient human didn't come out of caves to fight with odds. This is also a hope paradox, we will die and go in better world. Our lives are revolving around state of 'Hope. So dnt loose hope, you dnt know what tomorrow will bring for you. 

InsideView of Tomb

The ancestors of Abdul Razzak, alias Shah Chiragh, were residents of Uch, in Bahawalpur, and their pedigree joins the celebrated saint of Gilan, Muhy-Ud-Din, and known as Pir Dastagir.

Shah Chiragh flourished in the days of Shah Jahan, and died in 1068 A.H. (1657 A.D). The present mausoleum was raised to his memory by the order of the emperor Aurangzeb. There are total eight graves in the mausoleum including the grave of Shah Chirag’s father and grandfather.

The building is designed in traditional Mughal style of architecture. The exterior of the tomb is made from lime stone and the interior is decorated with beautiful floral frescoes on walls and ceiling. The mausoleum is square in plan, its facades decorated with cusped arch niches and cartouches set within a paneled scheme.

Tomb of Shah Chiragh and mosque

Mosque of Shah Chiragh

Inside View of Mosque