Tuesday, 19 June 2018

Sher Shah Suri Fort in Tulamba & History of Town 2018

05-03-2018

ONE OF TWELVE BASTIONS IN THE EXTERIOR FORTIFICATION WALL


30°31'38.19"N, 72°14'19.33"E
Reference:-Archaeological Survey of India

Tulamba, situated on the eastern bank of the Ravi River between Mian Channu and Abdul Hakeem in Khanewal district, bears witness to a captivating past. This historically significant town has been the subject of study and exploration by researchers and scholars, shedding light on its intriguing heritage. The Archaeological Survey of India has played a pivotal role in unraveling the enigmatic tale of Tulamba.

According to Mehboob Tabish, a respected researcher and writer, Tulamba was originally under the rule of the Malohi tribe of Jatt people during Alexander the Great's reign. The tribe displayed immense bravery and courage, fiercely resisting Alexander's attack. This resistance stands as a testament to the valor and resilience of the Malohi tribe.

The Muslim history of Tulamba traces its origins to the arrival of Muhammad bin Qasim, who passed through the town en route to Multan. The area he traversed is now known as Qasim Bazar, marking his significant presence in Tulamba. The present town of Tulamba is believed to have been constructed by Shujawal Khan, the son-in-law and Minister of Mahmud Langa of Multan, between A.D. 1510 and 1525.

The old fortress, which had miraculously escaped the ravages of Timur's conquests, once stood over a mile south of the modern town. Constructed with brick walls, remnants of this ancient fort can still be observed through the horizontal lines of the courses on the outer faces of the ramparts. Curiously, when the Ravi River altered its course, diverting to a more northerly path, the fort was abandoned due to the loss of its vital water supply. The bricks from the old ramparts were then repurposed to build the walls of the new town. Intriguingly, these walls exhibit numerously carved and molded bricks placed in various peculiar positions, sometimes individually, sometimes in lines, and occasionally even upside down.

Originally known as Kulamba or Kulambha, the town eventually acquired its present name, Tulamba. The exact meaning behind the name remains unknown, but it has been consistently spelled as Tulamba by various Muslim authors throughout history. One of the earliest mentions of Tulamba can be found in Sharf-ud-din's History of Timur. During Timur's conquest, the town surrendered under specific terms, which were predictably broken by the invader and his troops. The soldiers pillaged and burned the houses, subjecting the inhabitants to slavery, while the fort was spared to avoid delaying Timur's advance toward Delhi.

Tragically, Tulamba would suffer another invasion in A.D. 1480, when Amir Shekh Ali, the Governor of Kabul under Shah Rokh, led an assault on the town. Once again, the invading forces violated their promises, plundering Tulamba, massacring able-bodied men, and reducing the town to ashes. The women and children were taken captive, enduring a fate of slavery.

Religion has also played a significant role in the history of Tulamba. Baba Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh religion, embarked on his first journey (Udasis) and visited Tulamba. Centuries later, Guru Hari Rai, the seventh Sikh spiritual master, dispatched a preacher to Tulamba with the mission of spreading the teachings of the Sikh faith. These spiritual connections have left an indelible mark on Tulamba's religious landscape.

At the heart of Tulamba stands its mighty fort, which was reconstructed by Sher Shah Suri. This architectural marvel now serves as a girls' high school and houses the offices of the town committee. The fort comprises twelve bastions that support its grand fortification


CORNER BASTION 

EXTERNAL WALL



EXTERNAL WALL

INTERNAL WALL NOW SURROUNDED BY NEWLY BUILT HOUSES

CORNER BASTIAN 

CORNER BASTIAN AND EXTERNAL FORT WALL

ONE OF BASTIAN LOCATED INSIDE STREETS

REMAINS OF EXTERNAL WALL

EXTERNAL WALL AND BASTIAN 

EXTERNAL WALL















Monday, 18 June 2018

ROKHRI THE FORGOTTEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE


  

 25-02-2017

32°39'43.94"N, 71°30'32.28"E

A while back, encroachments of the Indus River on the Mianwali plain revealed and subsequently submerged masses of stones at a depth of about 10 to 15 feet below the surface of the high bank. In 1868, before the river could fully wash away the exposed remains, it receded, and at Rokhri, several heads made of plaster-like material and a mutilated figure of a human body, also made of similar material, were discovered. Additionally, a quantity of copper coins, pottery fragments, and ivory were found. These ruins consisted of parts of two circular walls made of stone blocks and large, well-shaped burnt bricks, covered with a layer of white plaster, some of which were adorned with delicate gold scrollwork. The statues found at the site had features that resembled Greek art more than Hindu art, indicating a possible Greek influence. Similar findings, including old coins, bricks, masonry remains, large earthen vessels, and clay pipes used as aqueducts, have been made in the vicinity during the excavation of small wells for saltpeter production. All these findings suggest that there was once a prosperous town at this location.

During my visit to Rokhri earlier this year, I observed that nothing remained at the site except signs of a mound covered with pottery fragments. My host, a resident of Rokhri village, shared interesting stories about treasure hunters who used to dig in the dark. They once caught a thief who had a Buddha statue head in his possession. Additionally, during the rainy season, villagers found pieces of gold at the site.

A comprehensive research work on Rokhri by Dr. Saifur Rehman Dar and Ms. Humera Alam, published in the Lahore Museum Bulletin of 1990, was shared with me by my archaeological friend, Mr. Arslan Yousfi. The research work provides valuable information about Rokhri, which I have summarized below.

"In Gazetteer of District Mianwali published in 1915. In 1925, Madho Sarup Vats gave some more information about the site alongwith a beautiful photograph of another stupa in the Annual Report of the Archaelogical Survery of India. In 1937 Sir Aurel Stein published the results of his visit to Rokhri in his report entitled, “Archaeological Recononnaissances in North West India and South Eastern Iran. In 1953 Ingholt published six pieces for Rokhri with brief description of each head. 




We are not sure how many sculptures were originally received from Rokhari and how and by whom the collection was brought to Lahore Mueseum. But it certainly started reaching here more than hundred years back through the courtesy of Mr. Priestly and Sir Alexander Cunnigham. The available old record of Lahore Museum does not speak much about this collection. It only mention the two lots of stucco sculptures received from Rokhri first in January, 1869 and second in March, 1869. These were sent to Lahore Mueseum  by Mr. R. Egerton and Mr. Priestly rewspectively. The same year a collection of Indo-Schthian and early Mohammadan coins were also reported from the same site, but in difficult to locate them now in the collection of Mueseum. Details of the stuccos have no been given in the avialble record. Even the number of pieces has not been mentioned though we are certain that such numbers were allotted and marked on individual pieces Cunningham has referred to a few inventory numbers, togethers with sketchs of only four heads published in his report. These numbers are 168, 298,510, 517. He also give an abstract classified list of thirty four sculptures as follow:-

Eight head of Buddha
Ten heads of laymen
One large center of Acanthus capital
Two dentile, one with vermilion in hollows
Five lion heads
Four small figures and arms, half-life size
One small body
One four-armed body holding fish

Chandigarh Museum Catalogue of Gandhara Sculptures give a list of six sculptures from Rokhri  Serial Nos. 162, 164, 168, 186, 197, and 298. A few other inventory numbers have given in Ingholts Gandharan Art in Pakistan.

These are 529 544 574 and 575 . Big gaps between different inventory numbers indidcate that the collection had been received in Lahore Mueseum in several inhsalments even before Cunninghams report referred to above.

Lahore Muesum possesses quite a sizeable collection of stucco sculptures from unnamed sites. Therefore when I started compiling the catalogue of Rokhri sculpture in Lahore museum. Precise identification of Rokhri sculpture was a big problem. Therefore sequence of the free inventory number just quoted and the and classifying has been my sole criterian  while picking up Rokhri Sculptures  and classifying them in the manner in which this catalogue is presented here. No quite possible that there might have been included some sculptures from some other site or excluded one or more pieces from Rokhri. The main purpose of this paer is to introduce and peresnt this material to the readers for future study.

Among thirty four pieces of Cunninghams list. I was able to locate only 23 head in our collection at present. This collection was divided and shifted to other museums after 1947. The number of pieces in National muesuem Karachi is not known whereas six of these sculptures from Rokhri were transferred to the Chandigarh muesem in india in 1947( 162 164 168 186 and 198). Among these five are Stucco heads of five are stucco head of Buddha and one a schist panel depicting Dipankara Jataka. Incindently this is the only source which indicates that a Gandharqa stoen sculpture was also found from the site of Rokhri. Whether it is a mistake of the compiler of the Chandigarh Museum Catalogue or factual postion. We are not sure, No earlier printed sources has mentioned this thing, The available record of the Lahore Museum is also silent on the issue. Besides Mr. M.S. Vats discovered from the site two terra-cotta figures- a mailed head of foreigner and a tine kushana figure. There identification and present location are also not known.

Related Architectural Remains

From Cunninghams Report we come to know that two concentric walls were found at the site along with two brick pillars outside the outer wall, from wehre those sculptures were collected. The circular measurement of these wall are given in Punjab Government Gazetteer. Which says that inner was 25 feet and outer one 38 feet. The distant between two walls is not given Cunningham concludes that the diameter of the inner circle about 24 feet  and outer circle about 40 feet, leaving a clear space between 8 feet. He took the inner wall to be the base of the stupa and the outer wall that of the surrounding circular enclosure. He thinks the dimensions, though rather small are comparable to the other existing stupa at Takht-i-Bahi and Jamalgarhi. The two circular wall were constructed of large brick shaped blocks of concrted. The whole site was excavated down in the water level. Where the base of the wall were also reached.
In 1925 Mr. M.s Vats was informed by Mr. T.F. cooke, Superintendent of Police, Mianwali that a stupa to the North of village of Rokhri about half mile from the large mound has been exposed by floods. While describling this stupa Mr. Vats writes;-

“Early in August, 1925 the stupa was under water upto the base moulding of the drum and one of four steps seen on my visit on the 5th October were then visible. A seated headless figure of Buddhisattva is in the niche on the west and is perhaps wearing amulets on the upper part of his arms, but there is nothing correspohnding  to it on the north and east sides, which are exposed. The drum of the stupa is on two tiers, the circumference in each case being divided by Cornthian pilasters into a number of shallow homogenous niches.  In fron of the Bodhisattva niche referred to above, is a fligt of steps by means of long stick, there are about 14 of them altogether. Taking this number to be approximately correct, the floor level of stupa would be about 10’-6’’ below the top steps as the reser are 9inch high. The upper part of the square plinth is relieved by a modilition and a dentil  cornice about and below a tours moulding . These are remarkably well finished in lime plaster which mush have been applied all over the stupa, as large lime plaster which must have been applied all over the stupa, as large patches of it are still visible over the drum and the dome. The whole fabric is built of kanjur stone quarried from the neighbouring hill of Sakesar, some 20 miles east of mianwali. But over the south-west corner of the plinth is a subsidiary and later brick stupa visible by the side of man seen in the photograpAh.

Assuming that the plan is regular, the portions now visi ble indicate that the plinth is 35’ square and diameter of the drum 23’, so that even if there be no miniatures in the court now under water, the stupa is of a fairly large size. On stylistic grounds it may be assigned to Kushan period. The depth to twhich the stupa is pernnianlly under water incidently furnishes as interesting testimony to the consdierabley lower bed of the Indus about the beginning of the Christian era.

At Rokhri , I secured from the villagers two typical terra cotta figures, one is the mailed head of foreigner with a long drawin face, knitted everbrows, blazxing eyes and fearful moustaches. He wears lng ear pendants. The other is a tiny Kushan figure, seated in European fashion and holding something in the hollow of his hands. The reverse shows Kushans drapery more clearly.

The stupa and portions of ancient site referred to the above would probably repay excavation but the only danger is that, if the river retains its present fury , the site itself may be gradually washed away. In the present conditions excavations of the stupa would only precipitate destruction of fabric.




From these two accounts by Cunningham and Vats it is quite clear that they are describing two different stupas, may be quite close to or at some distance from each other. The stupa containing the under discussion stuccos is now totally washed away while the stupa described by Vats was last mentioned in the list of protected monuments published by Department of Archalogoy Government of Pakistan in 1987. But during my last visit to site, I could not locate it. The above mentioned sources are the only two which throw some light on related architectural remain. What one can assume from these is that Rokhri stupa once containing the sculptures under discussion was not an isolated Buddhist site but part of Buddhist complex which can only be confirmed by extensive survery and excavation at the site. At the moment nothing can be said with certainty.

Iconography & Dating

Theme-wise the sculptures from the site can be classified into two categories
1.  Sculptures purely Buddhist in theme, including heads of Buddha, Bodhisattva and Jataka

           Secular type sculptures including laymen and women heads

Both type show a large variety in workmanship and features including sculptures of very high order and conventional type Buddhas comparable to the Buddha heads from Taxila and quite interesting are the indigenous type portraying the local folks.
Date wiser these sculptures can be placed in between 1st Century to 5th or even 6th Century A.D. Whetere the4 site was occupied continuously from 1st to 5th century or even a little later is difficult to say, because sometimes a variety of style and technique has been found at single period at site. But still on stylistic ground the sculpture from Rokhri may be assigned to different periods.

The heads against catalogue no. 5, 6, 7, 8 are very much Hellenistic in style. Specially showing man with conical phyrgian cap is a typical Parthian type. The conical cap is a characteristic of the Parthian dress. PL-IIa is a crude copy of Greek type and PL-II3 is a executed in such a manner which is quite different from the rest of the material being very much western and realistic. The group may be assigned to the Parthian period dated 1st century A.D.The schist panel depicting  Dipankara Jataka mentioned in the Chandigarh Museum Catlaogue can be placed nowhere-else then in the second half of the 1st century or 2nd century A.D. i.e. the Kushana period. The heads against catalogue Nos.15, 16 and 22 are comparable to the heads from Jaulian, Taxila belonging to 4th century A.D. The beautiful heads with colour applied on different parts for giving prominence are definitely later than the above mentioned heads and can be dated as belonging to 5th, 6th century A.D. The same date can be given to the secular type of heads.

Conclusion:-

The site of Rokhri predominant in yielding the stucco sculptures has many affinities with the sites like jaulian, Mohra Moradu, Sirkap in Taxila, Hadda in Afghanistan and recently discovered sites of GArh Mauryan in Hazara District and Haji Shah Morr two kilometer east-south of Mansar camp on G.T. Road near Attock.
All these sites except Hadda are situated on the east of River Indus and the stucco sculptures recovered from these sites are assignable to the group which Sir John Marashall has named as Indo-Afghan School of Art and is dated by him in the 4th &  5th Century A.D. 

From the very beginning the Gandhara stuccos are a controversial topic among scholars as some take it as a separate school which flourished in late Gandhara period while others think that it developed side by side stone sculptures.
For solving such problems, the Gandhara stuccos still needs to be studied seriously for which the newly discovered Gandharan sites on the east of the Inuds river offers new directions and dimensions.





















Friday, 15 June 2018

Hindu Temple inside Rohtas Fort

25-08-2017
This Temple situated on left side of Boali in Rohtas. In Sher Shah Suri army there was number of Hindu soldiers it is supposed that this temple is also constructed during the construction of Rohtas Fort. Before, 1947 fifty percent of population living in Rohtas were belong to Hindu religion and rest were Muslims. There were only five homes of Sikh’s in Rohtas, they were take career of Janam Asthan Mata Sahib Kaur.(Source of information Mirza Safder Baig)









Thursday, 14 June 2018

KHAIR UN NISA’S TOMB ROHTAS

25-08-2017

It is located near Rohtas Fort in Jhelum. She was the daughter of Qadir Bakhsh who was food minister during the reign of Shah Suri. Cracks appeared in the structure and the surface turned black due to algae. The floor has also been badly damaged.


Tuesday, 12 June 2018

The Mysterious Shrine of "Sakhi Zinda Wali Sarkar" located at Bill Sharif Taxila


29-03-2018

Almost an hour had passed since we left Dharmajika Stupa in Taxila, and our next destination was Giri, another Buddhist site. The female guide we met at Dharmajika suggested that we hire a guide from there to accompany us on a motorbike to reach Giri. Unfortunately, the guide demanded an exorbitant amount of money, leaving us with no choice but to navigate on our own. Fortunately, I already had the location pin for Giri.

The enchanting glen of Giri lies 8 kilometers northeast of Taxila, nestled at the foothills of Margallah. To reach it, we embarked on a rugged path that led us through a tumultuous torrent bed near two villages named Khurram Gujar and Khurram Paracha. The path was shrouded in a mysterious ambiance, with trees and untamed bushes flanking both sides. As we embarked on this journey, we came across a few camels laboring under the weight of colossal logs. Curiously, there was no human handler in sight, suggesting that the camels were well-trained to reach their intended destination. However, we encountered no one along the way who could guide us to Giri. 

While traversing the path, a sudden jolt startled us as a large stone struck the side of our car. Adding to our predicament, our mobile signals vanished, cutting off our means of communication. Our progress continued, accompanied by a mounting frustration over our decision to venture to this place by car. Uncertain of our direction and contemplating a return, we realized the road was too narrow to maneuver our vehicle for a retreat. Suddenly, a cacophony of quacking ducks reverberated from a nearby distance, indicating our intrusion into their territory. Intrigued, we cautiously proceeded and eventually discovered that the road abruptly ended, leaving us at a dead end. Lost and gripped by a sense of fear, we encountered a cluster of black flags peeking through the bushes, marking the presence of a shrine. The inscription on the shrine read, "Sakhi Zinda Wali Sarkar."

Unbeknownst to us, we had inadvertently surpassed Khurram Paracha Village and arrived at "Bill Sharif Taxila." Devoid of any custodian or guardian, an eerie silence enveloped the vicinity. Suddenly, faint sounds of children's voices emerged from deep within the dense jungle. Anxiously, we cried out, "Is anyone here?" Alas, our calls went unanswered. The entire atmosphere and surroundings exuded an unsettling aura. At the shrine's entrance, we discovered a car partially buried in the ground, its backseat weighed down by concrete cubes. The purpose behind this peculiar arrangement eluded our comprehension. To our bewilderment, the shrine's domain was guarded by ducks, with no trace of human presence. A notice at the shrine's entrance explicitly stated that women were prohibited from entering the premises and that nobody could remain there after Maghreb.

In Pakistan, numerous shrines bear names like Zinda Wali Sarkar. These names stem from the myth of holy individuals who mysteriously vanished, prompting their devoted followers to construct shrines in their memory. The disconcerting ambiance of this particular place compelled us to promptly depart. Fortunately, after retracing our steps, we finally located Giri, which, as it turned out, was situated approximately 3 kilometers before the aforementioned shrine.
 

Shrines

The burried Car

The Gaurdian Ducks

Signage 



Saturday, 9 June 2018

An abandoned Hindu Temple in Khanqah Dogran




08-03-2018
In the charming town of Khanqah Dogran, my gracious host, Hussain Dogar, and I embarked on a shared quest in search of a centuries-old mosque from the 17th century. Our determination was fueled by the sight of a captivating picture of this mosque on Flicker many years ago. However, despite our best efforts, the elusive mosque remained beyond our grasp. Perhaps the location was mislabeled, adding a touch of mystery to our expedition. Nevertheless, as we made our way back, a remarkable sight greeted us in the heart of Khanqah Dogran Bazaar—an abandoned Hindu mandir.

This ancient place of worship had undergone a transformation, with its lower portion repurposed into shops, bustling with the energy of daily commerce. As we looked up, wooden balconies adorned the first floor, adding an air of elegance to the structure. The chapel rooms, once filled with prayer and devotion, now housed families who had migrated after the partition. Walking through the surrounding street, we discovered a poignant reminder of the town's history—Pre-Partition Hindu Houses that stood as silent witnesses to a bygone era. It was revealed to us by locals that before the year 1947, this very street teemed with the vibrant presence of Hindu families. However, the passage of time had brought change, and today, no Hindu families remained in the area. The mandir itself, abandoned for decades, bore the architectural hallmarks of the early 19th century or possibly the latter half of the 18th century.

In this unexpected encounter, we found ourselves immersed in the layers of Khanqah Dogran's history, where religious narratives intertwine with the passage of time. The abandoned mandir stood as a tangible symbol of the town's multicultural past and the ebb and flow of its inhabitants. As we reflected on our journey, we realized that even though our original objective remained unfulfilled, the stories we encountered along the way painted a vivid portrait of the town's rich tapestry of cultures and traditions.


Abandoned Hindu Tmeple

Entrance 

Enterance

Sunday, 3 June 2018

NARAIN SINGH HAVELI


04-03-2018
All pictures and write up in this blog is owned

I was watching a TV documentary, in which a Sikh Family from India came to Pakistan after seventy years to visit their ancestral village and home. They left their home in 1947 and migrated to India.  The TV Host asked from the old lady who was the mother of that Sikh family that what are your feelings after seeing your home, she replied, “After marriage she was brought to this house, there were relatives homes in neighbors, everybody was living happily here, then suddenly they have to migrate to India, they have to leave everything behind, her family have roots from this place and fragrance of this place is with her, with everyday in seventy years this fragrance increases. She brought her children to show last glimpse of their roots”

In every village of Punjab you will hear such heart breaking stories of Partition.

I was travelling to visit Todar mal Bardari from Changa Manga in district Kasur. Suddenly, saw   an old Haveli situated on road side in small village of Muhammadi pur. This Haveli stopped us; we thought to take few photos we also asked from the owners that do they know anything about history of this Haveli. They said, the only thing they know about this Haveli, that it was built by a Sikh Sardar Narain Singh, who left to India with his family during partition. Half of portion of Haveli is not in use and about to fall any time due to poor structure condition. Remaining front arched gateway and few rooms are still present in original condition.

On returning home I searched Muhammadi pur on Google map and found some interesting facts that the villages around are still named after Sikh Sardars.

Kot Arjun singh, village Khushhaal singhwala, Bur Singhwala, Lehna Singhwala, Gajjan Singhwala, Kot Bishan Singh and Wir Singhwala are few names of villages around Muhammadi pur. This shows before partition it was a rich Sikh populated area.