NUSRAT KHAN TOMB LAHORE

January 2015

Nawab Nusrat Khan alias Khawaja Sabir belonged to a distinguished family of nobles and received the title of Khan-e-Dauran from Shah Jahan. He died at Lahore in 1659 and the present mausoleum was raised to his memory by Aurangzeb.

My Journey of Two years for getting permission to visit this Tomb:-

Two years back, I was searching the list of Tombs present in Lahore. Most of them, I had seen in the past, and I at least know their locations. Then there was a name came in front of me, “Nusrat Khan Tomb”. I had never heard about it and also did not know about its location or see any of its pictures. I thought it might be vanished in past and maybe some ruined exists of it. The only information which I got on the internet was that it was located a few kilometers from Kokaltash’s tomb. At that time, I did not have any idea that it is inside the grounds of the carriage shop. So the search begins after my office work, I reached Kokaltash's tomb and asked locals if there was any tomb there. There were very funny and interesting answers. Someone was telling me about Mian Mir Tomb and someone speaking to me about Madhu Lal Tomb. Then I reached the Chabacha stop there was a railway line coming out of the carriage railway workshop. A few railway policemen were standing there, I also inquired about their directions from them. They were not sure about the name but they told me the same structures as Kokaltash also exist inside the carriage workshop but it was used as Mosque and they did not know if was there any grave inside. So at last the mystery is solved. I asked them how to visit there. They told me to come at early 8 in the morning and take permission from the inspector railway deputed at Railway Carriage. The next morning, I reached there and meet the inspector. There was quite an interesting conversation. Firstly I told him the reason for my visit. He answered no tomb existed inside. Secondly, he questioned, do I visit there for making a documentary film? He again questioned, you look like an educated guy are you preparing a report for some organization? I wanted to explain to him I have a passion to explore historical architecture but I could not able to convince him. When I was about to leave he smiled and advised take a promise from headquarters or bring some media card with me, you might get permission.

I was not disheartened in fact I got more anxious to visit it. The second attempt was discussing this site with one of my friends Syed Faizan also known as Lahore ka koji. He tried to get permission but it was also in vain. 

Thirdly I asked one of my friends and my table tennis coach as well Masood Ali, who plays table tennis for Pakistan railways to grant me permission from headquarters. He asked seniors but they told him the site is prohibited to visit as the area is sensitive.

I also asked one of my friends, who is an editor in a renowned newspaper. But he also failed to get permission.

After so many failed attempts, I again asked a few of my friends who have a passion for history and architecture like me. But none of them were able to get permission to visit.

Last, after two years when I visited all the tombs of Lahore, I found a way how could I visit this last tomb a tricky way but it works. Someone told me to meet the railway worker union president. I found him and told him the reason for the meeting. He was not willing at first but I offered him a handsome fee for his great generous services :P. After a few weeks, he called me that I can come in the morning but I am not allowed to bring a DSLR camera with me. Well, I did not listen the next day I was there with a camera bag and two mobile cameras as well for Plan B. luckily at the entrance they did not check my bag I have only two or three minutes to see the great architecture. I took a few shots all around, absorb the site in my mind, and left the place with a feeling of accomplishment.

Location

Nusrat Khan's tomb is located at a distance of approximately ½ mile northwest of Zafar Jang Kokaltash's tomb in thegrounds of Carriage and Wagon Shops of Pakistan Railways. It can be reached by traveling north on Mughalpura Road until it ends on Workshop Road. Traveling some distance east on Workshop Road, you will reach the Pakistan Railways Carriage and Wagon Shops gate on your right. The tomb lies hidden deep within the grounds of the Carriage and Wagon Shops and is inaccessible to the general public due to the security requirements of the Pakistan Railways.

Construction

The tomb is a massive structure, built entirely of small Lahori bricks without the use of stone or Kashi Kari. The octagonal mausoleum stands in the center of a platform of octagonal shape which is now covered with grass. The building has an ornamental niche decoration on its façade and pigeon-holes in a schematic way on its dome. The double shell dome is raised over a circular drum. There is clear evidence of a tendency towards the evolution of a bulbous dome. The monotony of the circular drum is broken by rectangular panels set back slightly. On the eastern side, the drum has been pierced with a small window giving an entry to the cavity between the two shells.

At the top of the dome, there can be seen the remains of a lotus base for a pinnacle that is no longer extant. The building is surmounted by turrets of much elegance and beauty. Many of them survive to this day, however; the domes have fallen off of a few of them. The interior was decorated with paintings of different colors but unfortunately now has been paint-washed in the traditional colors of the Pakistan Railways, green and yellow. The tomb has been converted to the use of a mosque for the employees of the Carriage and Wagon Shops. Most of the arched entrances have been closed up and metal posts have been used to support a tin roof over a portion of the first story.

Historical Background

The tomb suffered extensive damage during the reign of Ranjit Singh when the marble embellishments were removed. The tomb was also used as a private residence by General Court, a member of Ranjit Singh's army. General Court added many rooms to the building but they had all been destroyed by the early 1890s except three arches in the upper story to the west. It was further damaged during the British time when it was turned into a hall room for military officers. The structure came to be called Gumbad Bijjar-wala on the account of people from the Bijjar tribe having lived in it after the collapse of the Sikh government.