Showing posts with label mianwali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mianwali. Show all posts

Friday 30 August 2019

My Visit to Stepwell (Baoli) at Wan Bhachran Constructed in Sher Shah Suri Era (2018)


25.02.2018
(All images copyright 2018 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)



I became aware of this Baoli through an article I read in the daily newspaper back in 2007. The article provided detailed information about the historical significance of this structure and expressed concern about the lack of efforts by government and historical departments to preserve the site.

Water holds significant importance in Hindu mythology, representing a boundary between heaven and earth, known as tirtha. The sacredness of water is widely acknowledged across the subcontinent, evident in the extraordinary and monumental architecture that showcases the engineering achievements of designers and builders in the region. Stepwells, considered manmade tirthas, served not only as sources of drinking water but also as cool sanctuaries for bathing, prayer, and meditation. The concept of stepwells may have originated to ensure water availability during periods of drought.

Evidence of steps leading to water levels in artificially constructed reservoirs can be found in sites of the Indus Valley Civilization, such as Dholavira and Mohenjo-Daro. Mohenjo-Daro, for instance, features cylindrical brick-lined wells that may serve as predecessors to stepwells. The earliest examples of rock-cut stepwells in India date back to 200-400 AD.

The Uperkot caves in Junagadh contain the earliest known bath-like pond reached by steps, dating back to the 4th century. Nearby, the Navghan Kuvo, a well with a circular staircase, is another example. Its construction is attributed to the Western Satrap (200-400 AD) or Maitraka (600-700 AD) periods, though some suggest a later date in the 11th century. Additionally, the nearby Adi Kadi ni Vav was constructed either in the second half of the 10th century or the 15th century.

Stepwells in Dhank, Rajkot district, date back to 550-625 AD, followed by stepped ponds in Bhinmal (850-950 AD). The construction of stepwells reached its peak during Muslim rule from the 11th to 16th century. Initially utilized as an art form by Hindus, the practice of constructing stepwells became more prevalent during this period due to the harsh climate and water scarcity in regions like Gujarat and Rajasthan. Wells were seen as the most reliable source of continuous water supply.

The stepwells, known as vavs, came to be more than just water sources. The architectural design around the wells transformed them into subterranean retreats. A typical vav consists of two elements: a vertical shaft with a thick surrounding wall to maximize water retention, and a series of imposing flights of steps built over an inclined passage leading from the ground level to the water level deep below.

Sher Shah Suri and Wan Bhachran Baoli

Sher Shah Suri, the founder of the Sur Empire in northern India, left a lasting legacy during his brief reign from 1540 to 1545. Among his achievements were the construction of the Grand Trunk Road, the introduction of civic and military reforms, the issuance of the first Rupiya coin, and the establishment of a speedy postal system across the subcontinent. His foresight and futuristic vision can be observed in the facilities along the Grand Trunk Road, designed to cater to travelers’ needs.

Wan Bhachran, located in Mianwali District of Punjab province in Pakistan, was a town and administrative subdivision. The term 'Wan' means 'a well' in Punjabi, while 'Bhachran' refers to the Bhachar clan predominant in the region. Sher Shah Suri built this baoli (stepwell) in the 16th century as part of his efforts to construct similar structures along the routes taken by his army. This baoli served as a source of fresh water not only for humans but was also designed to accommodate large animals like elephants.

The availability of freshwater attracted settlers to the area, and the first tribe to establish itself there was the "Bachar Tribe," contributing to the name "Wan Bhachran," meaning "The Well of Bachars." It was previously known as "Khichi" before the colonial period but later recognized as "Wan Bhachran." The main tribes in the area include Bhachar, Miana Bhatti, Thethia Rajputs, and Ghanjera.

Baoli at Wan Bhachran: Location and Architecture

The coordinates of Wan Bhachran baoli are 32°25'1.08"N and 71°41'44.93"E.

The baoli consists of two main parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers, and steps providing access to the well. The lift well has an inner diameter of 19.26 ft and is constructed using kiln bricks with a wall thickness of approximately 2 ft.

The inclined landing portion of the baoli has a width of 8 ft and a length of 100 ft. The last buried tunnel section spans 80 ft in length.

At the start of the stairway, two minarets stand, resembling medieval pillars known as 'Kos Minarets.' These minarets were constructed to ensure visibility from a distance for passing caravans and travelers.

Overall, baolis like the one at Wan Bhachran exemplify the ingenuity and architectural prowess of their builders, while also serving as important water sources and places of retreat and contemplation in the arid regions of the subcontinent.

After eleven years, in 2018, I had the opportunity to visit this place. To my dismay, the condition of the site was appalling. The well was filled with garbage, dense bushes had grown around the staircase, and sewage from nearby houses had contaminated the area. It was disheartening to see that no fencing or rehabilitation work had been undertaken by the responsible authorities to protect this site for future generations. This historical gem is at risk of disappearing within a few short years.

It is disconcerting to witness the neglect and lack of preservation efforts towards such an important historical edifice. The article I had read in 2007 had already raised awareness about the need for action, but it seems that little has been done since then. The authorities should recognize the significance of this site and take immediate steps to restore and protect it, ensuring its survival for future generations to appreciate and learn from

















Sunday 7 April 2019

The Last Hindu Temple standing at Wan Bhachran Mianwali



(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author property, kindly respect copyrights)
 Pictures were taken on 25-02-2018
Front Elevation View 
Wan Bhachran, located in the Mianwali District of Punjab province, Pakistan, is a town and union council that holds significant historical and cultural significance. The name "Wan" derives from the Punjabi word for a water well, highlighting the importance of water in the region. Additionally, "Bhachran" refers to the Bhachar clan, which has a strong presence in the area.

One notable feature of Wan Bhachran is a well-known Baoli, which was constructed by Sher Shah Suri during the 16th century. Baolis were constructed along the routes taken by Sher Shah Suri's army, serving as a crucial source of fresh water. This particular Baoli was designed in a way that even large animals like elephants could access the water directly. The availability of freshwater attracted settlers to the area, and the first tribe to establish a settlement there was the "Bachar Tribe." This contributed to the naming of the place as "Wan Bhachran," meaning "The Well of Bachars." It is worth mentioning that historical records suggest that the place was initially called "Khichi" before the colonial period but later became known as "Wan Bhachran." Bhachar, Miana, Bhatti, Thethia Rajputs, and Ghanjera are the prominent tribes of this area.

In the heart of Wan Bhachran town stands a small Hindu temple, which holds cultural and historical significance. The temple structure consists of a single room on the ground floor, known as the "Sanctum." This room was designed to house the deity worshiped by the Hindu community. From the square-shaped sanctum, a curvilinear spire or tower, known as a sikhara, rises, which is a common architectural feature seen in northern Indian shrines (Latinas). However, due to migration and the partition of India, no Hindu families currently reside in Wan Bhachran, and the temple is no longer functional.

Overall, Wan Bhachran showcases a blend of historical landmarks, such as the Baoli, and cultural remnants like the Hindu temple, reflecting the rich heritage of the region.


Another View of Temple
The family livig inside temple




Peacock Tiles

Space for placing Diety 

Enternace of Temple


Arches


Monday 18 June 2018

ROKHRI THE FORGOTTEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE


  

 25-02-2017

32°39'43.94"N, 71°30'32.28"E

A while back, encroachments of the Indus River on the Mianwali plain revealed and subsequently submerged masses of stones at a depth of about 10 to 15 feet below the surface of the high bank. In 1868, before the river could fully wash away the exposed remains, it receded, and at Rokhri, several heads made of plaster-like material and a mutilated figure of a human body, also made of similar material, were discovered. Additionally, a quantity of copper coins, pottery fragments, and ivory were found. These ruins consisted of parts of two circular walls made of stone blocks and large, well-shaped burnt bricks, covered with a layer of white plaster, some of which were adorned with delicate gold scrollwork. The statues found at the site had features that resembled Greek art more than Hindu art, indicating a possible Greek influence. Similar findings, including old coins, bricks, masonry remains, large earthen vessels, and clay pipes used as aqueducts, have been made in the vicinity during the excavation of small wells for saltpeter production. All these findings suggest that there was once a prosperous town at this location.

During my visit to Rokhri earlier this year, I observed that nothing remained at the site except signs of a mound covered with pottery fragments. My host, a resident of Rokhri village, shared interesting stories about treasure hunters who used to dig in the dark. They once caught a thief who had a Buddha statue head in his possession. Additionally, during the rainy season, villagers found pieces of gold at the site.

A comprehensive research work on Rokhri by Dr. Saifur Rehman Dar and Ms. Humera Alam, published in the Lahore Museum Bulletin of 1990, was shared with me by my archaeological friend, Mr. Arslan Yousfi. The research work provides valuable information about Rokhri, which I have summarized below.

"In Gazetteer of District Mianwali published in 1915. In 1925, Madho Sarup Vats gave some more information about the site alongwith a beautiful photograph of another stupa in the Annual Report of the Archaelogical Survery of India. In 1937 Sir Aurel Stein published the results of his visit to Rokhri in his report entitled, “Archaeological Recononnaissances in North West India and South Eastern Iran. In 1953 Ingholt published six pieces for Rokhri with brief description of each head. 




We are not sure how many sculptures were originally received from Rokhari and how and by whom the collection was brought to Lahore Mueseum. But it certainly started reaching here more than hundred years back through the courtesy of Mr. Priestly and Sir Alexander Cunnigham. The available old record of Lahore Museum does not speak much about this collection. It only mention the two lots of stucco sculptures received from Rokhri first in January, 1869 and second in March, 1869. These were sent to Lahore Mueseum  by Mr. R. Egerton and Mr. Priestly rewspectively. The same year a collection of Indo-Schthian and early Mohammadan coins were also reported from the same site, but in difficult to locate them now in the collection of Mueseum. Details of the stuccos have no been given in the avialble record. Even the number of pieces has not been mentioned though we are certain that such numbers were allotted and marked on individual pieces Cunningham has referred to a few inventory numbers, togethers with sketchs of only four heads published in his report. These numbers are 168, 298,510, 517. He also give an abstract classified list of thirty four sculptures as follow:-

Eight head of Buddha
Ten heads of laymen
One large center of Acanthus capital
Two dentile, one with vermilion in hollows
Five lion heads
Four small figures and arms, half-life size
One small body
One four-armed body holding fish

Chandigarh Museum Catalogue of Gandhara Sculptures give a list of six sculptures from Rokhri  Serial Nos. 162, 164, 168, 186, 197, and 298. A few other inventory numbers have given in Ingholts Gandharan Art in Pakistan.

These are 529 544 574 and 575 . Big gaps between different inventory numbers indidcate that the collection had been received in Lahore Mueseum in several inhsalments even before Cunninghams report referred to above.

Lahore Muesum possesses quite a sizeable collection of stucco sculptures from unnamed sites. Therefore when I started compiling the catalogue of Rokhri sculpture in Lahore museum. Precise identification of Rokhri sculpture was a big problem. Therefore sequence of the free inventory number just quoted and the and classifying has been my sole criterian  while picking up Rokhri Sculptures  and classifying them in the manner in which this catalogue is presented here. No quite possible that there might have been included some sculptures from some other site or excluded one or more pieces from Rokhri. The main purpose of this paer is to introduce and peresnt this material to the readers for future study.

Among thirty four pieces of Cunninghams list. I was able to locate only 23 head in our collection at present. This collection was divided and shifted to other museums after 1947. The number of pieces in National muesuem Karachi is not known whereas six of these sculptures from Rokhri were transferred to the Chandigarh muesem in india in 1947( 162 164 168 186 and 198). Among these five are Stucco heads of five are stucco head of Buddha and one a schist panel depicting Dipankara Jataka. Incindently this is the only source which indicates that a Gandharqa stoen sculpture was also found from the site of Rokhri. Whether it is a mistake of the compiler of the Chandigarh Museum Catalogue or factual postion. We are not sure, No earlier printed sources has mentioned this thing, The available record of the Lahore Museum is also silent on the issue. Besides Mr. M.S. Vats discovered from the site two terra-cotta figures- a mailed head of foreigner and a tine kushana figure. There identification and present location are also not known.

Related Architectural Remains

From Cunninghams Report we come to know that two concentric walls were found at the site along with two brick pillars outside the outer wall, from wehre those sculptures were collected. The circular measurement of these wall are given in Punjab Government Gazetteer. Which says that inner was 25 feet and outer one 38 feet. The distant between two walls is not given Cunningham concludes that the diameter of the inner circle about 24 feet  and outer circle about 40 feet, leaving a clear space between 8 feet. He took the inner wall to be the base of the stupa and the outer wall that of the surrounding circular enclosure. He thinks the dimensions, though rather small are comparable to the other existing stupa at Takht-i-Bahi and Jamalgarhi. The two circular wall were constructed of large brick shaped blocks of concrted. The whole site was excavated down in the water level. Where the base of the wall were also reached.
In 1925 Mr. M.s Vats was informed by Mr. T.F. cooke, Superintendent of Police, Mianwali that a stupa to the North of village of Rokhri about half mile from the large mound has been exposed by floods. While describling this stupa Mr. Vats writes;-

“Early in August, 1925 the stupa was under water upto the base moulding of the drum and one of four steps seen on my visit on the 5th October were then visible. A seated headless figure of Buddhisattva is in the niche on the west and is perhaps wearing amulets on the upper part of his arms, but there is nothing correspohnding  to it on the north and east sides, which are exposed. The drum of the stupa is on two tiers, the circumference in each case being divided by Cornthian pilasters into a number of shallow homogenous niches.  In fron of the Bodhisattva niche referred to above, is a fligt of steps by means of long stick, there are about 14 of them altogether. Taking this number to be approximately correct, the floor level of stupa would be about 10’-6’’ below the top steps as the reser are 9inch high. The upper part of the square plinth is relieved by a modilition and a dentil  cornice about and below a tours moulding . These are remarkably well finished in lime plaster which mush have been applied all over the stupa, as large lime plaster which must have been applied all over the stupa, as large patches of it are still visible over the drum and the dome. The whole fabric is built of kanjur stone quarried from the neighbouring hill of Sakesar, some 20 miles east of mianwali. But over the south-west corner of the plinth is a subsidiary and later brick stupa visible by the side of man seen in the photograpAh.

Assuming that the plan is regular, the portions now visi ble indicate that the plinth is 35’ square and diameter of the drum 23’, so that even if there be no miniatures in the court now under water, the stupa is of a fairly large size. On stylistic grounds it may be assigned to Kushan period. The depth to twhich the stupa is pernnianlly under water incidently furnishes as interesting testimony to the consdierabley lower bed of the Indus about the beginning of the Christian era.

At Rokhri , I secured from the villagers two typical terra cotta figures, one is the mailed head of foreigner with a long drawin face, knitted everbrows, blazxing eyes and fearful moustaches. He wears lng ear pendants. The other is a tiny Kushan figure, seated in European fashion and holding something in the hollow of his hands. The reverse shows Kushans drapery more clearly.

The stupa and portions of ancient site referred to the above would probably repay excavation but the only danger is that, if the river retains its present fury , the site itself may be gradually washed away. In the present conditions excavations of the stupa would only precipitate destruction of fabric.




From these two accounts by Cunningham and Vats it is quite clear that they are describing two different stupas, may be quite close to or at some distance from each other. The stupa containing the under discussion stuccos is now totally washed away while the stupa described by Vats was last mentioned in the list of protected monuments published by Department of Archalogoy Government of Pakistan in 1987. But during my last visit to site, I could not locate it. The above mentioned sources are the only two which throw some light on related architectural remain. What one can assume from these is that Rokhri stupa once containing the sculptures under discussion was not an isolated Buddhist site but part of Buddhist complex which can only be confirmed by extensive survery and excavation at the site. At the moment nothing can be said with certainty.

Iconography & Dating

Theme-wise the sculptures from the site can be classified into two categories
1.  Sculptures purely Buddhist in theme, including heads of Buddha, Bodhisattva and Jataka

           Secular type sculptures including laymen and women heads

Both type show a large variety in workmanship and features including sculptures of very high order and conventional type Buddhas comparable to the Buddha heads from Taxila and quite interesting are the indigenous type portraying the local folks.
Date wiser these sculptures can be placed in between 1st Century to 5th or even 6th Century A.D. Whetere the4 site was occupied continuously from 1st to 5th century or even a little later is difficult to say, because sometimes a variety of style and technique has been found at single period at site. But still on stylistic ground the sculpture from Rokhri may be assigned to different periods.

The heads against catalogue no. 5, 6, 7, 8 are very much Hellenistic in style. Specially showing man with conical phyrgian cap is a typical Parthian type. The conical cap is a characteristic of the Parthian dress. PL-IIa is a crude copy of Greek type and PL-II3 is a executed in such a manner which is quite different from the rest of the material being very much western and realistic. The group may be assigned to the Parthian period dated 1st century A.D.The schist panel depicting  Dipankara Jataka mentioned in the Chandigarh Museum Catlaogue can be placed nowhere-else then in the second half of the 1st century or 2nd century A.D. i.e. the Kushana period. The heads against catalogue Nos.15, 16 and 22 are comparable to the heads from Jaulian, Taxila belonging to 4th century A.D. The beautiful heads with colour applied on different parts for giving prominence are definitely later than the above mentioned heads and can be dated as belonging to 5th, 6th century A.D. The same date can be given to the secular type of heads.

Conclusion:-

The site of Rokhri predominant in yielding the stucco sculptures has many affinities with the sites like jaulian, Mohra Moradu, Sirkap in Taxila, Hadda in Afghanistan and recently discovered sites of GArh Mauryan in Hazara District and Haji Shah Morr two kilometer east-south of Mansar camp on G.T. Road near Attock.
All these sites except Hadda are situated on the east of River Indus and the stucco sculptures recovered from these sites are assignable to the group which Sir John Marashall has named as Indo-Afghan School of Art and is dated by him in the 4th &  5th Century A.D. 

From the very beginning the Gandhara stuccos are a controversial topic among scholars as some take it as a separate school which flourished in late Gandhara period while others think that it developed side by side stone sculptures.
For solving such problems, the Gandhara stuccos still needs to be studied seriously for which the newly discovered Gandharan sites on the east of the Inuds river offers new directions and dimensions.