𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝘆𝘀𝘁𝗲𝗿𝗶𝗼𝘂𝘀 𝗙𝗶𝘃𝗲 𝗛𝘂𝗻𝗱𝗿𝗲𝗱 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗹𝗱 𝗡𝗲𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝘀𝗷𝗶𝗱 𝗼𝗳 𝗟𝗼𝗱𝗵𝗶 𝗘𝗿𝗮

14th August 2022

In the ancient walled city of Lahore, there are two buildings that hold the distinction of being the oldest and most historic. Unfortunately, these remarkable treasures have received little attention and documentation. These buildings are the pre-Mughal mosques known as Khizri Masjid and Neevin Masjid.

In this discussion, we will focus on Neevin Masjid, as it raises certain issues that warrant exploration. Khizri Masjid has faced the challenge of name changes, a common occurrence that reflects our communal mindset. Hopefully, with time and education, a deeper understanding of history will prevail. However, we will also delve into Khizri Masjid in another piece. To reach Neevin Masjid, one must enter through Lahore's oldest gateway, Lohari Darwaza, which served as the main entrance before the expansion of Lahore by the Mughal emperor Akbar. From there, you head towards Naya Bazaar inside Chowk Matti and then turn towards Kucha Dogran. In the middle of this path lies Neevin Masjid.

This unique mosque is located 25 feet below the ground surface, hence the name Neevin, meaning "low" or "below." The mosque's lower position might explain why it was missed by the Muslim invaders, including the last Mughal invader Babar, who flattened much of the walled city. Perhaps previous invaders also overlooked it for the same reason. The question that has always intrigued me is why it is situated 25 feet below the surface, equivalent to the height of a typical two-story building. Before delving into this question, let's first explore some details about the mosque.

Neevin Masjid was constructed around 560 years ago in 1460 AD during the Lodhi rule over Lahore, making it the oldest structure in the original walled city before Akbar's time. The ruler at that time was Bahlul Lodhi, and the governor of Lahore was Haybat Khan. Zulfikar Khan, an influential official in the court, is credited with building this mosque, and some accounts suggest that he lived next to it.

Some might argue that the grave of Ayaz, the beautiful Georgian slave of the Afghan invader Mahmud, is older. Ayaz, who committed suicide on August 10, 1041, was buried outside the city walls. He was not a governor, as some claim, but rather an adviser or helper. The discovery of his grave came long after the construction of Neevin Masjid, and it fell within the new walled city established during Akbar's reign.

One intriguing aspect of Neevin Masjid is that it remained untouched even during periods of non-Muslim rule when the majority of the population was non-Muslim. While the Badshahi Masjid was converted into a horse stable during Sikh rule, and the British used it for residential purposes, Neevin Masjid was never subjected to such treatment. Perhaps its inconveniences made it unsuitable for non-ritual activities.

Although other mosques in the city have faced similar fates, Neevin Masjid stands apart. There was another Neevin Masjid in Yakki Darwaza, but it was reconstructed at street level, losing its unique characteristics. Thankfully, its name was never changed.

Today, Neevin Masjid is well-maintained because the local population funds its repairs and maintenance. The prayer leader of the mosque, who happens to be a local trader, donates his salary to the mosque's fund. Had the mosque been handed over to local authorities, its condition might have been different. Despite the inconvenience of descending 25 large steps to reach the prayer hall, the mosque comfortably accommodates 100 people and serves the local community well.

Now, let's address two important issues that require thoughtful consideration. While there are other possibilities, we will focus on the two most significant ones. It is important to note that no answer can be deemed final, but each possibility holds some merit. Firstly, there is a chance that the Neevin Masjid was constructed in the basement of a destroyed Hindu or Jain temple. Given that Lahore had a sizable Jain population during Mahmud's invasion, this scenario cannot be dismissed. Mahmud razed even the Zarathustran "Sun Temple" at Chuna Mandi, which is now the site of the waterworks, along with other structures, including temples. The presence of a temple's traditional basement beneath the mosque seems plausible, although the depth of 25 feet might be a bit excessive for this possibility. Nonetheless, it holds some substance, and further exploration is necessary.

A few years ago, while working as a journalist covering the activities of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture's efforts to preserve the Shahi Hammam inside Delhi Gate, I observed that the archaeologists were surprised to find that the building's foundations extended deeper both outside and inside. The actual structure's base stood 12 feet below the street level, which explains why the shops surrounding it are situated at a lower level. This discovery raised the possibility that the entire walled city was initially at a lower elevation than the present level.

To explore this idea, I consulted a renowned archaeological expert at Cambridge University who recently gave a lecture on his work in the Bannu Valley. He presented a list of possibilities, suggesting that as old Lahore was encircled by the meandering River Ravi, slush drying and accumulating over time could have increased the surface height. He cited examples from Harappa and his work in Bannu to support this theory. Over 600 years, this scenario is indeed feasible.

However, I raised the point that nearly 150 years ago, the river shifted its course about a mile away. To my surprise, the learned professor replied, "Exactly! This would have left a mound of increased height compared to the outer surface." This explanation resonated with me. Over 600 years and countless flood events, it is reasonable to assume that the outer height of the city could have risen by 25 feet. It is worth noting that the Shahi Hammam, in just 385 years, has an outer street level that is 12 feet below the original level. Traditional water-related structures were typically built at slightly elevated positions, further supporting the plausibility of Neevin Masjid's 25-foot depth over nearly 600 years.

In my opinion, the initial thesis proposed by the esteemed scholar from Lahore Museum did not consider the experience of the Shahi Hammam, as it occurred before his time. His explanation aligned with the prevailing wisdom at the time, but there is much to be learned from archaeological excavations within the walled city. Unfortunately, our tourism experts often prioritize glitz and glamour over what lies beneath our feet. Even our soil holds valuable lessons.