𝐒𝐀𝐑𝐀𝐈 𝐒𝐔𝐋𝐓𝐀𝐍 𝐋𝐀𝐇𝐎𝐑𝐄

11-07-2022

(All images copyright 2022 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Nestled just outside Delhi Gate in the Landa Bazaar, the remnants of Muhammed Sultan's Serai stand as a testament to a fascinating story. Originally a soap manufacturer hailing from Kashmir, Sultan's life took an unexpected turn during the Sikh era. Notably skilled in wrestling, he rose from modest means to become a wealthy contractor for Public Works during British rule, supplying bricks for the construction of cantonments and other city structures. It was during this time that he acquired the name Muhammed Sultan, the contractor.

Unfortunately, Muhammed Sultan's path to success involved the destruction of numerous old mosques and mausoleums, using the bricks from these historical treasures to build new edifices. Notable among his demolitions were the palaces of Pari Mahal and Rang Mahal, as well as the magnificent Sitara Begum Mosque. The serai itself was constructed on the grounds where Dara Shaikoh's palaces once stood during the reign of Aurangzeb. Sultan acquired the site from the government, unearthing the foundations of Dara Shaikoh's palace, which yielded a rich supply of bricks. With these bricks, he built the serai and the Landa Bazaar, complete with its row of shops.

The serai boasted two gates, one facing east and the other north. Though time has taken its toll, remnants of the eastern gate can still be seen, albeit on a smaller scale. The northern gate has fared better and survives as a doorway. Travelers found lodging in the rooms surrounding the serai, with accommodations of higher quality reserved for British officers and other esteemed guests. A well was also dug, and the boundary wall provided a solid structure. To the west of the serai, Sultan constructed his own residence and a stunning three-domed mosque.

In the later years of his life, Muhammed Sultan's health deteriorated, and his wealth dissipated. He fell into a debt of approximately 700,000 rupees, eventually mortgaging all his properties to the Maharaja of Jammu to repay his creditors. Sadly, he passed away a few years later, and many Muslims of the time believed his misfortune was a consequence of his destructive actions.

Muhammed Sultan's life is a story of resilience and transformation. Born an orphan in Kashmir, he arrived in Lahore with his mother and faced numerous challenges as he worked various menial jobs. However, he persevered and became the first soap manufacturer in Lahore. Through wrestling and connections, he transitioned into contracting work, eventually achieving a level of wealth and status akin to a true Sultan of Lahore. His step-brother's extravagant wedding, costing four lakh rupees, was celebrated with grandeur, reminiscent of Prince Nau Nehal Singh's past nuptials. Notably, Muhammed Sultan arranged a remarkable reception for Prince of Wales Albert Edward on January 18, 1876 AD, adorning all the shops in his Landa Bazaar with intricately carved wooden 'chajas.' He also earned praise for constructing a beautiful water well known as 'Thanda koh' within his serai, providing drinking water to the common people.

However, Muhammed Sultan's legacy is marred by conflicting views. On one hand, he displayed acts of philanthropy, offering charity to the deserving, constructing public buildings and mosques, and working for the welfare of the people. He maintained a humble demeanor and even declined fancy titles from British overlords. On the other hand, his pursuit of personal gain led him to buy and subsequently demolish one monument after another, solely for the sake of bricks. Yet, it is important to consider