"𝗙𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗼𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗻 𝗦𝘁𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗟𝗮𝗵𝗼𝗿𝗲: 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗖𝗹𝗮𝘀𝗵 - 𝗥𝗮𝗷𝗮 𝗛𝗶𝗿𝗮 𝗦𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗵 𝘃𝘀. 𝗨𝗻𝗰𝗹𝗲 𝗦𝘂𝗰𝗵𝗲𝘁 𝗦𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗵 𝗗𝗼𝗴𝗿𝗮 𝗮𝘁 𝗠𝗶𝗮𝗻 𝗪𝗮𝗱𝗱𝗮 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗮𝘀𝘀𝗮, 1844"

Mian Wadda, or Shaikh Muhammad Ismail, was a revered figure who established the Madrassa during the reign of Akbar near Shalimar Garden in Lahore. This educational institution was renowned for providing comprehensive theology, jurisprudence, Hadis, and Tafsir education. Despite Shaikh Muhammad Ismail's passing in the year 1095 A.H. (1683 A.D.) during Aurangzeb's rule, his Madrassa continued to serve as a renowned Islamic institute and a refuge for the homeless, needy, disabled, and helpless for almost 150 years after his death. Generous donations from noble Muslim courtiers sustained the institution.

However, the Madrassa faced a tragic turn of events during the reign of Raja Hira Singh Dogra, the prime minister of the Sikh Kingdom of Lahore in the mid-19th century. Hira Singh responded decisively after the assassination of Maharaja Sher Singh and Raja Dhian Singh, orchestrating the killing of the Sandhawala brothers, Attar Singh and Lehna Singh. Subsequently, Maharaja Duleep Singh, Ranjit Singh's five-year-old son, was proclaimed the new ruler, with Hira Singh assuming the role of prime minister.

Hira Singh's aggressive pursuit of justice involved confiscating the properties of Sandhawalia sardars and exiling his uncle, Suchet Singh Dogra. Tensions escalated as Raja Suchet Singh sought to assume the prime ministerial position, seeking refuge with students and the needy at Mian Wadda Madrassa. Ignoring the vulnerability of the population within the Madrassa, Hira Singh ordered cannon fire at the site, resulting in a tragic loss of lives, including followers and students.

The conflict between Hira Singh and his uncle not only led to the death of numerous individuals but also caused significant damage to the Madrassa and mosque. The article highlights the collateral damage suffered by cultural and educational institutions during power struggles, underscoring the devastating impact on Mian Wadda's legacy and the lives of those associated with the Madrassa."

Tracing Roots: A Journey into Lahore's Anglo-Indian History with Rob Cranenburgh

In my article titled "Lahore's Timeless Charm: Unveiling the Enchanting Tale of Victoria Park and its Bygone Anglo-Indian Community," The article delves into the interesting history of Charing Cross and Victoria Park in Lahore, uncovering details about the Anglo-Indian community that lived there before 1947.

(link to my article https://aliusmanbaig.blogspot.com/2023/06/lahores-timeless-charm-unveiling.html)

To my surprise, Rob Cranenburgh, currently residing in the UK, reached out to me, initiating a heartwarming conversation. His grandmother was an Anglo-Indian born in Lahore and baptized at Sacred Heart Cathedral School, adding a personal touch to Lahore's history.

"Hey Ali, I'm good thanks, and you? I found your feed to be very interesting! I’d love to visit Lahore," Rob shared, setting the stage for a delightful exchange.

His simple request held profound meaning: "The next time you are near the cathedral, I’d love it if you could take a picture for me. I will share it with my uncle; he is over 80, and I know he would love to see it." This small request became a bridge connecting our shared interests and heritage.

Rob's grandmother was born in 1918 in Lahore, she was baptized in the Sacred Heart Cathedral, a grand Catholic Cathedral. Rob recalled memories of a time when Lahore had a more significant Anglo-Indian population, a community that dwindled after the Independence of British India in 1947 and subsequent migrations in the 1950s and 60s.

Rob shared more about his family's connection to Lahore, highlighting his grandmother's mother, who ran a cafe in the city. Born in Lucknow, her mixed heritage added an intriguing layer to their family's narrative.

The conversation unfolded further, unveiling the story of Rob's great-grandfather, Charles James White, an Englishman in the British army. Tragically, he passed away when Rob's grandmother was still a child. After his death, Rob's grandmother and mother left Lahore, making a new home in Calcutta, where she eventually met Rob's grandfather.

I inquired about Rob's grandfather, whether he was a local or Anglo-Indian. The answer revealed, "Yes, also Anglo-Indian, but from an old Calcutta Anglo-Indian family dating back to the late 1700s. So my surname is of Dutch origin. My grandfather's ancestor, we believe, came out to India with the Dutch East India Company."

Rob's fascination with history became evident as he shared insights from conversations with older members of the Anglo-Indian community. The stories reflected a contrast in experiences between those in Pakistan, facing discrimination leading to migration post-partition, and those in India, departing more for economic reasons.

In the simplicity of our conversation, a tale of intertwined histories emerged. Rob Cranenburgh's connection to Lahore, though physically distant, speaks to the universal threads linking us to our roots. Through photographs and conversations, we became witnesses to a story spanning generations and continents, a testament to the enduring power of shared history. I later took pictures of Sacred Heart Cathedral School for Rob, and in 2023, he visited Lahore, standing where his grandmother was baptized—a way to show respect and gratitude to his ancestors.

The Hidden tomb of Mohammad Qasim Khan Lahore

#SyedBadruddinGilani  #GumbuzKushtiWala

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

17-12-2023 (Date of Visit)

The Governor House Lahore, is a historic edifice shrouded in tales of dynasties and transitions that have shaped its identity over centuries. At the heart of this imposing structure lies a remarkable piece of history—a hidden tomb from the Mughal epoch of the 16th century, reshaped into a dining hall, stands as a  testament to the magnificence of Mughal architectural prowess.

Dating back to the 16th Century, the upper story of what is now the dining room in the Governor House was initially the final resting place of Mohammad Qasim Khan, a revered maternal cousin of the illustrious Mughal Emperor Akbar. The tomb's sanctity is underscored by the fact that Khan's grave still lies beneath the very room that once echoed with Mughal legacies and regal splendor.

However, the tomb's narrative has been steeped in intriguing controversies, sparking debates among eminent historians. Syed Muhammad Latif and Kannahiya Lal, two renowned scholars, have presented conflicting accounts regarding the tomb's occupants. Lal insists that Saint Syed Badruddin Gilani was interred here, while Latif credits Qasim Khan for the honor.

The historical backdrop surrounding the tomb extends beyond its spiritual significance. Once an adjacent ground used for wrestling matches, known as 'akhaara,' the tomb was also referred to as Gumbuz Kushti Wala—a testimony to its multifaceted past.

During the reign of Ranjit Singh, the tomb underwent a transformative phase when Jamadar Khushal Singh erected a residence around it. Eventually, this property transitioned into the possession of Deputy Commissioner Major MacGregor, who, in 1859, converted it into the distinguished Government House during the lieutenant governorship of Robert Montgomery.

The evolution of the structure continued, retaining the original tomb on the ground floor. John Lockwood Kiping, along with his protege Bhai Ram Singh, curated the interior and furnishings of this revered site. Today, the tomb of Muhammad Qasim Khan remains within the precincts of the Governor House, Lahore, echoing the majesty of its Mughal origins.

The architectural magnificence of the tomb is evident in its design—four doorways enclose the two-story structure, with a stairway adorning its northern facade. Delicate craftsmanship adorns the interior with four columns rising majestically, creating a split-level appearance. The exterior boasts twelve arched niches in bricks, while the interior features four doors adorned with eight mehrabi dar around.

The dome, a masterpiece in itself, showcases four skylights illuminating the sanctum. Following the province's annexation, the British acquired this hallowed structure and the surrounding land for a meager sum of Rs. 2,500. Remarkably, while maintaining the mausoleum's integrity, additional rooms were constructed atop the square platform encircling the tomb, elevating its stature and necessitating a grand, sweeping staircase as the main entry point.

Since the inception of Pakistan, the Governor of Punjab/West Pakistan has inhabited and conducted official duties within this hallowed building, signifying its enduring significance in the region's administrative landscape.

The Governor House stands not just as a symbol of governance but as a custodian of heritage, preserving tales of nobility, transitions, and architectural finesse that resonate through the annals of time.

Echoes of St. Mary Magdalene: Tales from Lahore's Past and Colonial Dynamics

St. Mary Magdalene Church is one of Lahore's largest and oldest worship centers. Its construction in 1856 AD spanned six years and cost Rs. 90,000 at that time. 

A visitor named Kim Whysall-Hammond, also known as The Cheeseseller Wife, commented on October 3, 2020, on my article on St. Mary Magdalene Church. She shared the discovery of a prize awarded to her mother in 1934 for regular attendance at St. Mary Magdalene Church when her mother was merely 6 years old. Her father served in the RAF.

Expressing gratitude for the information and the beautiful photos of the church, Kim shared that her mother often recounted her childhood in Lahore. She mentioned her mother's expulsion from school due to befriending individuals from the local community. During my childhood, I also attended school there for twelve years.

This narrative also illustrates the Colonial British's behavior towards locals, depicting a segregationist stance where interaction with the local population was discouraged.

The Forgotten 17th Century Tomb of Mian Bai

Date of Visit (29-03-2023)

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

Right at the entrance of Poonch House Colony, a neglected and weathered Mughal-era tomb from the seventeenth century stands forlorn. Its architectural style is somewhat reminiscent of the Zeb-un-Nisa tomb a few kilometers south at Nawakot.

Once, the tomb's original outer plaster remained untouched, but regrettably, the current caretaker covered it with a layer of cement and sand. Even the plaque indicating that the tomb belonged to Mian Bai was replaced with a new name, Mai Bukhari. Interestingly, this tomb has transformed into a shrine, where an annual Mela festival is celebrated.

Not far from this tomb, merely a few hundred meters away, the historic Chauburji gate stands. This splendid architectural marvel was once encircled by a grand garden, now lost to the passage of time. The story behind its creation is as captivating, intertwined with the enigmatic figure of Mian Bai.

In the year 1646, the Chauburji gate proudly showcases an inscription attributing its construction to "Sahib-e-Zebinda Begam-e-Dauran." The arch above it carries verses in Persian that describe the garden as a reflection of paradise, founded with the bounty of Zebinda Begam, gifted to Mian Bai.

"This garden, In the pattern of the garden of paradise, has been founded,

(The second line has been effaced)

"The garden has been bestowed on Mian Bai.

"By the bounty of Zebinda Begam, the lady of the age."

According to the nineteenth-century historian Syad Muhammad Latif, Mian Bai held a special place in Zebinda Begam's heart. As the garden's completion approached, Zebinda Begam presented it to Mian Bai. The Shah Jahan-nama, a historical text, narrates how this gift came to be. The garden was planned by Zebinda Begam, and Mian Bai was entrusted with its construction and supervision.

A remarkable incident occurred when the garden was near completion. The Princess, Zebinda Begam's daughter, heard people discussing her visit to "Mian Bai's Garden." Recognizing the garden's connection to Mian Bai, the Princess decided to gift it to her. Upon reaching the garden, Mian Bai warmly welcomed the Princess, praying for her long life. This gesture was seen as a positive omen, leading Zebinda Begam to immediately transfer ownership of the garden to Mian Bai.

Syad Muhammad Latif's assumption that the inscribed "Zebinda Begam" refers to Zeb-un-Nisa might not withstand scrutiny. Zeb-un-Nisa, born in 1637, would have been a mere child when the garden's construction took place, making it improbable for her to command the resources needed for such an endeavor. A more plausible candidate emerges in the form of Jahan Ara Begam, Shah Jahan's daughter and Zeb-un-Nisa's aunt.

photo taken by Dr. Zishan

My good historian friend Dr. Zishan helped me out in writing this article, he also told there were two other graves in outer perimeter of some person from Gurdaspur.