The Three Forgotten Shamshanghats of Lahore

Lahore, a city steeped in history, has witnessed the ebb and flow of empires, religions, and cultures. Before the partition of 1947, it was a vibrant mosaic of Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs, living side by side. Among the many forgotten relics of this era are the Shamshanghats—Hindu cremation grounds—once scattered across the city. With the exodus of Hindus during partition, these sacred sites were gradually abandoned, and over time, they faded from both memory and the landscape.

The Lost Shamshanghat of Taxali Gate

One of these forgotten Shamshanghats was situated outside the Taxali Gate, west of Lahore. Historian Kanhaiya Lal, in his *Tareekh-e-Lahore*, described this site as a prominent cremation ground for the Hindu community. Originally, the Shamshanghat lacked an enclosure, but during British rule, a large boundary wall was constructed, with the eastern gate serving as the main entry point. A Peepal tree stood by the entrance, where the deceased were placed before being moved to the cremation area. 

The space was simple but functional, featuring an arched corridor built by Rai Mehla Ram for the guards. There was also a small pond constructed for ritual baths after cremations. This Shamshanghat, like many others, disappeared with time as urbanization encroached upon its grounds. By the time the old Ravi River, which once flowed near the Taxali Gate, changed course, the Shamshanghat was lost entirely. During an excavation near Lady Wellington Hospital, remnants of its walls were uncovered, revealing traces of the British-era Lahori bricks and the tall wall of the pond. I was fortunate to capture photographs of this long-forgotten site.

Gopal Nagar: A Shadow of the Past

Gopal Nagar, located near the Children's Hospital and Gulab Devi, still retains its pre-partition Hindu name, though few know its history. Once a Hindu-majority locality, it was home to a lesser-known Shamshanghat. After 1947, the site was sold, and houses were built over it. My friend, a resident of this area, shared eerie stories of paranormal experiences linked to the Shamshanghat that once stood beneath her home. The stories passed down by the elderly still echo, even as the physical evidence of the cremation ground fades.

The Eerie Fields of Bhasin

Bhasin, a village east of Batapur, holds a different kind of memory. Known for the Battle of Bhasin in 1800, the village also had a large Sikh population before partition. Havelis and Samadis (Sikh memorials) from that era still dot the landscape. Just a few kilometers from the Indo-Pakistan border lies a forgotten Shamshanghat, where Hindu cremations were once performed. The atmosphere around this site is unsettling. Locals avoid it, even during daylight, due to its association with paranormal events. When I visited, the earth still bore traces of the past, scattered with the ashes of those who were once cremated here, giving the place an empty yet haunted feeling.

Though the Shamshanghats of Lahore have disappeared from the city’s bustling landscape, their presence lingers in the shadows, in the stories of those who remember, and in the rare fragments that reappear from the past. These forgotten sites are more than just cremation grounds; they are silent witnesses to Lahore’s complex, layered history, where the boundaries between the living and the dead, the past and the present, remain hauntingly blurred.

𝐇𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐓𝐚𝐥𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐋𝐚𝐡𝐨𝐫𝐞: 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐕𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐬𝐡𝐞𝐝 𝐓𝐨𝐦𝐛𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐀𝐛𝐮𝐥 𝐇𝐚𝐬𝐚𝐧 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐝𝐨𝐨𝐦𝐚𝐡 𝐁𝐞𝐠𝐮𝐦

Lahore, a city steeped in history, once cradled the splendid tombs of Abul Hasan and his wife, Makhdoomah Begum. Unfortunately, these historical marvels have fallen victim to the relentless march of time, leaving only fragments of their existence.

Originally positioned near the shrine of Hamid Qari, where Hamid Qari served as the caretaker, Abul Hasan's tomb now dwells in the realm of lost treasures. The remnants of its former glory share tales of Mughal-era architecture. Abul Hassan, the uncle of Queen Noor Jahan, was a significant state official during the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's reign. He earned the title 'Baradar Bajana Barabar Khananay Bazoa Rast Dault Chugtai.' He constructed a grand tomb costing ten lakhs of rupees, which, unfortunately, was later converted into gunpowder storage during Ranjit Singh's era by one of his French Generals. The tomb met its end in a sky-lighting incident, with the dome's roof demolished, and Sikh rulers sold its bricks, causing the site to vanish.

Adjacent to Abul Hasan's Mausoleum, the tomb of his wife, Makhdoomah Begum, once stood proudly. This mausoleum, adorned with four intricately designed mihrabs and a beautiful ceiling, serves as a reminder of great Mughal craftsmanship. Interestingly, it is said that Makhdoomah Begum, during her lifetime, directed the construction of her tomb, a modest counterpart to her husband's grand memorial, reflecting her respect to her husband.

The mausoleum was initially surrounded by a garden with a canal irrigating lush greenery. Between the Shalamar Gardens and the railway line leading to Amritsar lies a forgotten well, reminiscent of Iranian design. Later, this land became the site for the Western Railway locomotive in the Colonial Era.

The tomb of Makhdoomah Begum, a square-shaped testament to the splendor of its time, sadly saw its demise during Sher Singh's rule. The dome of Makhdoomah Begum's tomb suffered damage, and subsequently, the tomb was demolished, repurposed for bricks, and lost to history.

Historical records depict Makhdoomah Begum as a woman of literary taste and poetic sensibilities, known for her contributions to the cultural tapestry of the era. 

Following the instructions of her son Shaista Khan and in a gesture of humility and reverence, Makhdoomah Begum assigned a thousand Hafiz to continuously recite the Quran at her husband's mausoleum. This sacred tradition persisted during the reign of Hamed Qari, who served as the administrator of the charitable house connected to the tomb. Interestingly, a shrine was constructed a few years back at the grave of Hamid Qadri, and his mosque also stands close to this vicinity.

As the pages of history unfold, the lost tomb of Abul Hasan and the enduring legacy of Makhdoomah Begum weaves a tale of love, devotion, and the inexorable passage of time. The remaining fragments serve as a testament to Lahore's rich history and the cultural gems it once cradled.

Naulakha Presbyterian Church Lahore

 Date of Visit 27th May 2018

(All pictures and writeup text used in this blog, is author's property, kindly respect copyrights)

In the year 1853, a profound testament to faith and community emerged in the heart of Lahore as Reverend William Morrison and his wife, Mrs. Anna Morrison, laid the cornerstone for what would later be known as the Naulakha Presbyterian Church. This architectural marvel, initially established with a humble congregation, has evolved over the years to stand as a resounding symbol of unwavering devotion and unity, boasting today one of Punjab's oldest and most expansive congregations.

Under the visionary guidance of the American Presbyterian Church (APC), the Naulakha Church became a sanctuary for spiritual enrichment and a cornerstone for educational and social progress. The church building underwent a series of thoughtful enhancements in 1891, resulting in a more spacious and inviting environment that further embraced its worshippers.

Beyond its spiritual significance, the Naulakha Church also played an instrumental role in fostering education and enlightenment within the local community. The APC's commitment to knowledge dissemination led to the establishment of the Rang Mahal Mission High School, providing a platform for young minds to flourish. Additionally, the church's influence extended to the prestigious Forman Christian College, a testament to its enduring commitment to intellectual growth.

The passage of time saw the confluence of two great Presbyterian entities, as the American Presbyterian Church and the United Presbyterian Church embarked on a journey of unity, culminating in forming the Presbyterian Church USA. This transformative union strengthened its collective mission and ushered in a new era of shared purpose and collaboration.

In the year 1992, another pivotal moment in the church's history unfolded with the amalgamation of the United Presbyterian Church in Pakistan and the Lahore Church Council. This significant merger gave rise to the Presbyterian Church of Pakistan, a harmonious embodiment of faith, culture, and community spirit. This dynamic institution continues to carry forth the torch of its predecessors, illuminating the lives of countless individuals and exemplifying the true essence of Presbyterian values.

Today, the Naulakha Presbyterian Church Lahore stands not only as a place of worship but as a living testament to the enduring power of unity, faith, and shared aspirations.

Lala Nihal Chand Temple (1876-77) and Nostalgic Reminiscences of Lahore pre-1947 as Told by His Granddaughter

Inside the Lahori gate, a tall, elegant curvilinear spire of a Hindu temple adorned with intricately designed Rathas on all faces, raised on fluted pillars perched atop with architectural embellishments and prowess. The temple is hidden amidst the new urban construction of the Walled city of Lahore. This architectural marvel still stands tall, whispering tales of the past.

The temple takes its name from Lala Nihal Chand, who served as a contractor for the colonial government.

A few months ago, I received a heartfelt email from Mr. Raghav Nayyar, a direct descendant of the esteemed Lala Nihal Chand. His grandmother holds the proud title of being Lala Nihal Chand's granddaughter. In his message, he expressed his appreciation for my blog and shared his passion for our shared history in Punjab. He mentioned how few internet sources document the beauty and multicultural history of the region.

Currently residing in the US, Raghav expressed his desire to visit Delhi whenever possible and his ultimate wish to explore Lahore and Gujranwala, the cherished homes of his family before the partition, in beautiful Pakistan. His curiosity about my experiences led him to inquire if I had the chance to visit the Lala Nihal Chand Mandir during my excursions.

As Raghav and I exchanged words, I couldn't help but feel the strong connection he had with his ancestral heritage. The temple's significance in his family's history is evident, with its picture proudly displayed on his wall.

Picture of Mandir Shared by Raghav

After three attempts, I finally set foot inside the magnificent Lala Nihal Chand Temple, nestled near the Lahori Gate. The present owner, unfortunately, wasn't too welcoming to visitors, but my determination prevailed, and I was able to explore this remarkable edifice firsthand. As I embark on writing an article about this architectural marvel, I turned to Raghav Nayyar for assistance in unraveling its historical background.

they are shops and resident quarters on entrance of temple building

The entrance arched gateway turned into shops

Raghav told me that his Nani has shared with him a few of her memories. He requested her Nani sibling who is older than her for more details.

Here is a transcription of my Nani's memories about the mandir. Most refugees don't speak about their life’s pre-partition. My Nana spoke about his life in his final years.

What I like most about this story is it shows Muslims and Hindus coexisted and befriended each other in this beautiful city. I am grateful that you visited the temple, and that it still exists.

When we were young, we used to come from Racecourse Road to pick up our father from Sutar Mandi, where he used to sit for his batik to listen to all the people around him, all problems they are having. We used to visit the mandir also, almost every day, to do our puja and all that as children. There used to be a masjid also next door. The road used to be with bricks, a small road street, all the red bricks were there. There used to be a Bagchi, known as a small garden. In between there used to be a walking place and both sides were the Bagchi.

 And when my father he passed away in '57, June they held a puja for him. All the people from there got together and did puja for my father. He was so well-known and so caring for everyone. No one has any problem with him at all.

I don't remember the mandir's name. My father's name was Rai Sahib Narsingh Das Chopra.

Mandir I am talking about in Lahore. That was known as Lala Nihal Chand Chopra, who built the mandir. It used to be known for our family mandir. He was my grandfather. He passed away at a very early age also. His Samadhi is also there in the mandir. We all almost every day used to go to puja. My mother, my auntie all of them used to go every second day.

There used to also be a Pandit ji named Khushi Ram, and he became a very close family member. We used to go and see the masjid sometimes because my grandfather had built a kua (well) and his name should still be there. We used to have such a good relationship with each and every one. Never had any problem.

So, in addition to the mandir, my grandfather built a haveli also very close by in the same area and there used to be another building where I still remember as a child my father used to go listen to all the people's problems. It used to be beautiful, ceiling and the worth seeing that part of it also.

Then my Nihal Chand, my grandfather, had a Katra Nihal Chand where there used to be I think 107 houses or something on his name.

One of the community members who used to do dye business used to dye the clothes in Sutar Mandi itself, but he lost his father. One evening, one afternoon we came around 4 to pick him, my father. He says no, I won't be able to come back with you children as I have to go for something. And my father put his pagri, his saafaa pagri in the buggy and says you go back home and send whatever Tonga, buggy, car, whatever is there. Send it back to me because I have to go and attend the ceremony. And he was so caring for everyone, he never realized who was from which religion, which place but everyone used to be part of our family.

Very sweet of Ali. God bless him.

You can't imagine how much I used to remember our Sitla Mandir whenever a child with measles or chicken pox. After the recovery, we will go there to take the blessings. Used to be in one corner of the road.

After picking up our father from Sutar Mandi we will stop to buy fried pakora from dariwala at the corner of the street and used to be so many stalls of fruits and buy fruit from there. Still, remember once I was wearing pink color orange, and a cotton fabric frock. They ask me how beautiful the dress is looking and started talking around them. Later on, advised by family, girls are not supposed to do all that.

Khan Sahib, our very close and good friend, used to go to Mussoorie Hill station together. The perfect human being. He saved my father, and after the partition, my father came to Mussoorie. Can you imagine later on, he came to the Amritsar border with a few portraits of his grandfather, father, and other family members, three big paintings from the mandir also.

By the end of Jan 1957, Khan Sahib passed away. My father really cried. His best friend has gone.

We started school, at Sacred Heart, then Sir Ganga Ram school. All my sisters and younger brother used to go there early morning and three Maali used to come with bouquets of flowers for our class teachers.

Tonga, two, and one buggy will take us to school very close by, on Jail Road only. My older brothers used to go to St Anthony School.

Every Sunday, the band used to play on Mall Road, on the mall.

Every Thursday I do remember Mia Mir to get his blessing. Can't understand why I have so much faith in all the gurus. The Lahore temple had the statues of Ram, Sita, Lakshman & Hanuman. Pandits would do puja daily and local residents of Sutar Mandi would attend. Dussehra time was the big event annually.

July 16, 2023

It was heartwarming to see how he and his family were eager to connect with their roots and shared such great details with me. As the stories unfolded, my heart swelled with gratitude for being able to witness the remnants of this glorious past. The Lala Nihal Chand Mandir, though time-worn, still stands tall, preserving the memories of an era when love, harmony, and coexistence were cherished values.

"Lahore's Vanishing Avian Beauty: The Imperiled Pheasant-tailed Jacanas"

 14th May 2023

These could possibly be the final glimpses of Lahore's avian beauty, as three Pheasant-tailed Jacanas can be seen together. The urbanization of the city has resulted in the loss of many of its marshy regions, making it increasingly difficult for these birds to find in the city.

The paragraph highlights the potential decline of Lahore's avian beauty and specifically focuses on the presence of three Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, indicating that their sighting might become increasingly rare.

The Pheasant-tailed Jacana is a species of bird known for its vibrant colors and long, slender legs. It is primarily found in wetland areas and marshes, where it can navigate through the vegetation using its long toes. However, the urbanization of Lahore, the city being referred to, has led to the destruction and loss of many of these marshy regions.

Urbanization involves the expansion of cities, which often results in the conversion of natural habitats into built-up areas, infrastructure, and human settlements. As a consequence, the wetlands and marshes in Lahore have been significantly reduced in size or completely eliminated, giving way to residential and commercial developments.

The reduction in marshy regions has negatively impacted the Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and their ability to find suitable habitats within the city. These birds rely on wetland environments for foraging, breeding, and nesting. Marshes provide them with ample food sources, such as insects, aquatic invertebrates, and plant matter. Additionally, the dense vegetation and shallow water in marshes offer protection from predators.

With the loss of marshy regions due to urbanization, the Pheasant-tailed Jacanas face challenges in finding suitable areas to feed and reproduce. The remaining wetlands may be fragmented, isolated, or insufficient in size, unable to support healthy populations of these birds. Consequently, the sighting of three Pheasant-tailed Jacanas together in Lahore could be considered a rarity, potentially indicating a decline in their population within the city.

The paragraph implies that these glimpses of avian beauty might be among the last ones, suggesting that if the trend of urbanization and habitat loss continues, the Pheasant-tailed Jacanas may eventually disappear from Lahore altogether. This serves as a reminder of the impact that human activities can have on the natural world and the importance of conservation efforts to preserve biodiversity and protect vulnerable species.

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐠𝐨𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐧 𝐂𝐡𝐚𝐩𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐟 𝐋𝐚𝐡𝐨𝐫𝐞: 𝐑𝐚𝐭𝐭𝐚𝐧 𝐂𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐇𝐢𝐬 𝐒𝐡𝐢𝐯𝐚𝐥𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐞𝐱

 Date of Visit:- 22 April, 2018

(Most of the pictures were photographed by myself: the text was taken from an Article by Majid Sheikh  for Dawn News and different sources from the internet)

Part of Temple, Serai Building

The Lahore Gazetteer of 1884 termed it as one of the city’s major ‘serai’ along with that of Sultan Thakedar’s one in Landa Bazaar and the Anarkali ‘serai’, where today stands the dilapidated Delhi-Muslim Hotel. The reason it was termed as a ‘serai’ was that Dewan Rattan Chand also built to one side housing for the new British officers who came to Lahore. In return he made the ‘patwari’ of Lahore confirm the land to his name as the maharajah had promised him the land.

The Lahore Darbar of Maharajah Ranjit Singh had an array of very talented men from all over the Punjab-men of letters, of arms, of commerce, and then there were scholars and analysts. He would consult at least three to four persons on any matter of importance before making up his mind.

The maharajah liked to ask young and old, and often he would pose the most vexing questions to the numerous young children of courtiers that were present. His view was that the innocent often solved the most difficult problems. “Simplicity is not the virtue of those in intrigue”, he would often comment. One of his favorite young children at court was a boy by the name of Rattan Chand, and the Maharajah called him Rattan Chand ‘dhariwala’ to distinguish him from his namesake. When he came of age, he was known as a wise young man and was greatly respected for his views. He was officially called Lala Rattan Chand Dhariwala. He was appointed to various positions, all of which he served with The man who served the maharajah with distinction was Lala Rattan Chand.

Once in about of affection for the loyalty of the man he was gifted two things with the instruction: “One is for your future generations, and the other is for this city to which you now belong”.

For the family, he gifted a set of jewelry of rare Iranian jades which experts had informed him were from the famous ‘Takht-e-Sangin’ temple on the right side of the Oxus river (Amu Darya). Experts recently claimed that it was part of the famous Oxus Treasure, most probably from the second century BC. He had ‘acquired’ it from an Afghan member of royalty, who had ‘acquired’ it from Central Asian sources. h distinction.

Now owned by TANYA PALTA

Now owned by TANYA PALTA

TEMPLE, POND & SERAI

During the reign preceding Maharajah Ranjit Singh, the area outside the Shahalami Gate had been laid wasted by conflict. The various Sikh chiefs, who began constructing huge ‘havelis’ inside the walled city, plundered the bricks from vacant houses. Very soon the area was a huge empty ground, and it was at that time that Lala Rattan Chand wanted to purchase it. He was opposed by Sikh chiefs who felt that too large and important a track of land was being given to a mere boy. The maharajah decided not to allot it to anyone. One version has it that the maharajah promised that if it was allotted in his lifetime, it would be to him. As a special gesture, he allotted him a smaller piece to build a temple as a first step.

So Lala Rattan Chand set about leveling the wasteland and then he built a wall around his possession. On the four corners of the walls, he built four structures with Sikh-style domes. In the middle, he built a temple perched on a platform raised above the ground. The temple dome was raised to a considerable height, making it among the finest in Lahore. Outside, he built a series of houses and shops, and even before the British arrived, the road was called Rattan Chand di Sarak.

Part of Temple, Serai Building

Out of four domes that used to be present around the Shivala only one is left behind and  stands in a decrepit Condition

Not sure about this Samadhi, to whom it belongs

The Shivala spire was damaged during the riots after Babar Masjid incident

The ten years after the death of the maharajah saw considerable fighting within the Lahore Durbar. In this period, Lala Rattan Chand consolidated his position and kept the status quo, thanks to his connections with the ‘patwaris’ of those days, all of whom feared him. When the British took over, he immediately switched sides and put in an application that the late Maharajah had promised him this additional land. The British immediately allotted him his “promised” land.

The British were short of residential accommodation, and Lala Rattan Chand provided them with ample housing, “at very reasonable rates”. Within a few months, he had managed to get allotted the entire gardens that were to make the garden, tank and temple of Rattan Chand a major feature of Lahore. Lala Rattan Chand was among the very first Punjabi bureaucrats to join the British administration of the East India Company.

The water tank was made in such a way that it surrounded the temple. The water for the Shivala was brought through an ingenious system of very small canals. The gardens laid out were well-watered and green all year round. Its fruit trees were well-known in the city and a nursery of sorts developed at this point, where today exists the dusty Bansaanwala Bazaar. Lala Rattan Chand died in 1872 and the road right up to the Mayo Hospital crossing was named after him. Once the Mayo Hospital was built, a major portion of the road was named Hospital Road.

POST RANJEET SINGH ERA

After the death of the Maharajah in 1839, he continued his position in the Lahore Durbar. He was appointed the postmaster-general of Punjab in 1846.  During British rule, he became the honorary magistrate of Lahore in 1862. He was then bequeathed the title of Dewan in 1865 and was one of the first Punjabi bureaucrats to join the British administration of the East India Company.

DEATH

In 1862 he was made the Honorary Magistrate of Lahore. In 1865 he was made a ‘Dewan’ and hence his last official name was Dewan Lala Rattan Chand Dhariwala. Born in 1808 in Lahore,

He died in Lahore in 1872 and his creation of a beautiful temple and a tank became part of Lahore’s landscape. The fruit trees became well-known, and the local population was given a free hand at picking fruit as long as they ate them on the premises.

After his death in 1872, his son immediately sold off these houses to Hindu traders of Shahalami Bazaar. These became warehouses (godowns as we call them from the word ‘go-da’am’) and when 1947 came enraged Muslims knocked them down for their bricks. Very few historic structures survived the loot by the new migrant traders who even knocked down major portions of the ancient city walls for bricks to construct new houses and shops. The sole shop of the Rattan Chand era is the one which once belonged to a ‘tabla maker’, who in turn was forced to sell it to a ‘second-hand nylon sack vendor.’ After all, trash makes more money than a musical beat.

So it was that at Partition Lahore lost not only a rare set of ancient jade jewelry, but it also led to the senseless destruction of a beautiful water tank and a temple. Today few know just who Dewan Lala Rattan Chand was despite his sterling contribution to Lahore. But then his old pre-1947 family house inside Shahalami Bazaar near Rang Mahal was recently attacked when the Babri Mosque incident took place. The reason is merely that it is still remembered locally as ‘Rattan Chand da Makan’. The occupants defended themselves by reciting the ‘kalima’ in front of the attackers. It is amazing how religious hatred gets ingrained.

A picture from 1880, a garden was built around the Shivala and pond seen in front 

another picture of the decrepit spire of Shivala 

another picture of the decrepit spire of Shivala 

another picture of the decrepit spire of Shivala 

another picture of the decrepit spire of Shivala 

another picture of the decrepit spire of Shivala 

Sanctum of Shivala now surrounded by concrete jungle

Difficult to take the good frame of Spire of shivala all ready surrounded by new concrete construction 

It was a huge complex comprises of Shivala, ponds, and Sarai... in picture staircase which was part of Sarai now occupied by migrant families 

Arched entrance 

Old brick must be part of Sarai

Another Old Construction 

View of decrepit sarai 

Part of Sarai

Closer View 

Another view 

Old Wooden Door 

Room for devotees 

Part of Sarai 

Part of Sarai 

Now a playground once a pond of Shivala complex exists here