The Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi Mosque stands as a testament to the rich architectural heritage of northern Pakistan and is revered as one of the oldest mosques in the region. Its discovery can be credited to the Italian Archaeological Mission in Pakistan, which stumbled upon its grandeur in 1985. This remarkable mosque showcases the splendor of ancient Muslim architecture, captivating visitors with its captivating design.
The journey of exploration began when, by a stroke of luck, an Arabic inscription etched on black marble was found in 1984 on the slopes of the hill below the majestic Raja Gira Castle. The inscription revealed that the mosque was established in HE 440 (1048-49 CE) under the orders of Amir Nustagin, a Ghaznavid General. Interestingly, this inscription remains the only historical evidence of Amir Nustagin's existence.
Excavation work at the site commenced in 1985 and continued until 1999. The findings unveiled a hypostyle mosque, featuring original wooden supports. The mosque occupied an early artificial terrace, adorned with remnants of Gandharan masonry, showcasing the influence of the Gandhara civilization on its construction.
Once the ruins were unearthed, the remnants of 30-foot-high walls immediately caught attention, along with the discovery of a graveyard, common rooms, student quarters, and even a water mill. These walls also revealed traces of a Buddhist stupa that had predated the construction of the mosque, reflecting the cultural and historical layers interwoven at the site.
The architectural layout of the mosque adheres to the conventional design pattern of mosques, boasting a rectangular plan measuring 28 meters by 21 meters. Its high walls, constructed with schist stone in a rough diaper masonry style, envelop the sacred space. Although the original roof is no longer intact, the stone bases of wooden pillars remain, with five pillars running from north to south and eight pillars from east to west. The mehrab, marking the direction of prayer, is positioned at the center of the west wall, while an off-center entrance on the east wall stands in opposition to it. The prayer chamber, encompassing the mehrab, is elevated and features a beaten earth floor, while the remaining area is paved with schist stone slabs, forming the courtyard with an ablution tank at its center. Towards the northern side of the building, a series of three oblong-shaped rooms known as "ziyada" can be found. Additionally, three bastions or towers grace the exterior of this side, offering glimpses of both Hindu Shahi and Ribat architectural influences. The mehrab itself displays a square shape, indicating its pre-Seljuk origins.
The history of the Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi Mosque is deeply intertwined with the region of Odigram. Situated in the vicinity of the Raja Gira Castle, the mosque was originally known as the Raja Gira Mosque. It is important to note that it should not be confused with Raja Griha in India. Dating back to the period of Mahmud of Ghazni or his grandson Maudud (1041-50 A.D.), the mosque holds the distinction of being the earliest mosque in northern Pakistan. The settlement in the area grew around the tomb of a revered saint, which later led to the construction of a small and simple mausoleum. This tomb, known as Ghazi Baba tomb, is actually the final resting place of the General of Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi, named Pir Khushal. Pir Khushal achieved martyrdom while defeating Raja Gira, and his tomb has become a revered site for locals and visitors alike. Today, this historical mosque attracts numerous visitors who flock to Swat during the summer, drawn by its rich heritage and captivating charm.
