Gurdawara Roop Chand or an Unknown Mughal Era Baradari

# Gurdawara Roop Chand or an Unknown Mughal Era Baradari

Accompanied by my brother and our friend Kashif Gurki, we embarked on an exciting exploration of the outskirts of Lahore, driven by our shared passion for uncovering the remnants of the Sikh era. Having already visited a Samadhi in Kohrian village along Barki Road, our curiosity led us further towards Jahman village, nestled beside the BRB canal.

As we made our way along the canal, a local resident approached us, curiosity piqued by our presence in the area. Eager to share our purpose, we explained that we were avid enthusiasts of history, particularly intrigued by old architectural wonders. The friendly local, appreciating our enthusiasm, directed our attention towards a small village called Gaga, where the remains of an ancient Samadhi were said to lie.

Gaga, a quaint village located near Nurpur, held significance beyond its own historical remains. It was in Nurpur that the legendary subcontinental wrestler, Kikar Singh, received his early training, making it a place steeped in sporting history. However, our immediate focus was on the Samadhi awaiting our exploration in Gaga.

Located at the far end of the village, the site had been allocated to migrants who had arrived during the partition of 1947. Intriguingly, the ancestors of these migrants shared a captivating tale with us. They explained that the edifice we were about to visit was believed to be the tomb of a Sikh named Roop Chand, who, after embracing Islam, had been laid to rest at this very spot. However, even after residing in the village for the past 68 years, they remained uncertain about the authenticity of this account, considering that the structure itself appeared to be at least 300 years old. Speculation arose that it could very well be a Samadhi—a testament to the Sikh heritage of the region.

As we approached the enigmatic structure, our minds filled with anticipation and curiosity. The possibility of unearthing centuries-old history and untold stories beckoned us forward. Gaga, with its quiet charm and a hint of mystery, seemed to hold the key to a forgotten chapter in the region's past. We were ready to immerse ourselves in the exploration, hoping to shed light on the true nature and significance of this enigmatic Samadhi.

It has roughly 12 x 12 feet in horizontal dimensions and 10 ft in height. It has an arch opening on all four sides and one side opening was closed with temporary brick masonry. The top roof dome had fallen a few years back.

I have seen almost every old structure of the Sikh era in this area. But, this building's architecture is quite different from them. In Sikh gurdwaras and Samadhis; the entrance opening is from the eastern side which is an auspicious old tradition. But this structure has openings on all four sides; which is not observed anywhere else. This type of configuration was usually used in Mughal Baradari. Locals also told us that a few decades back it has a tall entrance gateway and garden which disappeared with the passage of time.

The bricks used in the construction of this edifice are different as compared to bricks used in any historic building on the outskirts of Lahore.  Arches, partitions, and brickwork; all relate to Mughal construction. I came to the conclusion that maybe it was a tomb or baradari constructed in the Mughal era and during the Sikh era that might be converted into Gurdwara or Samadhi…..

A 17th Century Tomb of Sheikh Mohtram

19-03-2014

2014:

Late Rao Javed, a great historian from Lahore, took me to the Co-op store area of Lahore in 2014 to show me a historical tomb of unknown history from the Mughal era. After the construction of the Shalimar garden in the 16th century, a large number of residences, villages, shrines, and tombs started lining up along the new alignment of the Grand Trunk Road in the mid-seventeenth century. Begumpura is the most interesting town among these sites, in terms of Mughal gardens, that has survived along the Grand Trunk Road between Lahore Fort and Shalimar Garden. The sites of Begumpura were developed over a hundred years from the mid-seventeenth to the mid-eighteenth century. 

At first glance, the structure seemed to be a tomb built in the seventeenth century. It was a square building roughly 18 feet long and wide, with its actual plinth level below the current natural soil level. The side walls were 12 feet tall and were raised above after the construction of squinches in the corner dome. Unfortunately, the entire building has been whitewashed and is now being used as a mosque by residents.

2024:

In 2024, I came across a historical reference that mentioned the tomb belonged to Sheikh Mohtram. Sheikh died in Lahore in the year 1690 AD and belonged to the lineage of Naqshbandi Islamic scholars. He was a famous saint who lived during the reign of all four great Mughals - Akbar, Jahangir, Shahjahan, and Alamgir. The tomb was in rectangular shape with a dome on top, and there were small minarets on all four corners which have fallen over time. Inside the tomb, there were three graves; one belonging to Sheikh and the other two belonging to his close relatives who were also buried there.

There were four arched entrances on each side, but they were later closed with bricks. The tomb's bad fate began during the Sikh era when the expensive marble was brutally removed and sold out. Later, during the British colonial period, it was sold to an Englishman who flattened the graves and constructed a hall on all four sides of the tomb, making it his residence. Later on, it was used by the North Western Railway Co-op Store office, which previously used it as storage for weapons. Then, it was used as part of a Soda Water factory for the Railway.

An interesting Farsi script was written on this tomb in the past, but it has faded with time. A translation of the script is as under:

"Those guiding lights for seekers of the path of salvation, who possessed the wisdom akin to Solomon and the intellect of Asif, the esteemed servants of God, have departed from this world to the assembly of saints. When I searched for their date of passing, Aqil Saleem remarked:

Subtract five from his date of death and say : 'O God, admit them into the highest paradise.'

The script talks about wise and knowledgeable individuals who were like guiding lights for people seeking a righteous path. They were compared to Solomon, known for his wisdom, and Asif, renowned for his intellect. These esteemed individuals, considered servants of God, have passed away from this world and joined the revered group of saints in the afterlife.

The riddle states that the numeric value of the phrase "قدس اللہ سرہ الاشرف" using the Abjad numerical system is 1107. When subtracting 5 from this value, as mentioned in the previous verse (شعر), it becomes 1102, which represents the Hijri year of the person's demise.

It essentially emphasizes the respect and admiration held for these departed souls and suggests a prayerful act to seek God's mercy and blessings for their souls in the afterlife.

GURUDWARA RORI SAHIB, JAHMAN VILLAGE, LAHORE

A decade ago, my friend Tanwir and I found ourselves wandering in the outskirts of Lahore, near the border area, in search of daffodils. It was during this expedition that we stumbled upon a magnificent architectural gem from the past, steeped in historical significance. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we were unable to explore the site thoroughly and vowed to return another time.

Finally, on the 3rd of May, 2015, we embarked on our journey once again to explore the remnants of the Sikh era scattered throughout the outskirts of Lahore. This time, we made it a priority to revisit the sacred shrine believed to be associated with Guru Nanak Dev Ji, situated near Jahman Village. Located less than two kilometers from the Indo-Pak border, reaching the site required traversing the Badian road and crossing the BRB canal. From there, Jhaman village was a mere three kilometers away, with a well-paved approach road that allowed access by four-wheeler vehicles.

The site, known as Rori Sahib, derived its name from the place where Guru Nanak Dev Ji had stayed on three separate occasions. The proximity of Dera Chahal, the ancestral village of Guru Ji's maternal grandparents, played a significant role in attracting him to this area. Notably, another Gurudwara is also present in Dera Chahal. Initially, there was a small pool at the site, which was later expanded into a tank by one of Guru Ji's devoted followers, Naria, a resident of Jhaman village. Through Naria's unwavering faith and efforts, a considerable number of Bhabray individuals converted to Sikhism.

The construction of the Shrine commenced under the patronage of Bhai Wadhawa Singh, who dedicated his resources to building a beautiful Darbar. Over the years, Vaisakhi and the 20th of Jaith became significant occasions when vibrant fairs were organized at the site. The Gurdwara enjoyed an endowment of 100 Bighas of land, ensuring its sustenance and maintenance.

However, the passage of time has taken its toll on the shrine. The once-expansive tank has now dwindled into a small pool, and the dome requires urgent repairs to prevent further deterioration. Without prompt action, this architectural marvel could ultimately succumb to the ravages of time, becoming nothing more than a mound of dust.

Preserving and restoring this sacred site should be a priority to honor its historical and cultural significance. The repairs and maintenance efforts should encompass the tank, the shrine's dome, and the surrounding area. By undertaking these restoration measures, future generations can continue to appreciate and be inspired by the rich heritage associated with Guru Nanak Dev Ji and the spiritual legacy left behind.

Haveli Nau Nihal Singh

Victoria Girls High School is a government girl’s school inside the walled city of Lahore and is housed in a nineteenth-century Sikh period haveli of Naunihal Singh, the son of Kharak Singh and grandson of  Maharajah Ranjeet Singh.

The haveli is one of the few remaining royal residences from the Sikh period in Lahore. It is an intact structure of over forty rooms with most elements of its original ornamentation preserved on the two main elevations and the interior courtyard facades.
The most important and incidentally also the better-preserved feature of this haveli is the ‘rang mahal, a small picture gallery on the top floor. The ‘shish mahal’ or ‘rang mahal, is a typical feature of both Sikh and earlier Mughal architecture and consists usually of a highly ornamental room with embellishment in the form of frescoes, mosaics with mirror pieces inlaid in stucco, decorative ceilings with painted designs and beading patterns.
The rooms were used for entertainment and relaxation and opened onto a view or the courtyard. While the rest of this valuable piece of architectural heritage has lost most of the interior surface ornament due to its heavy use as a school building for over a hundred years the room has been saved due to its location on the top floor and its fame as the haunted room was also a reasonable deterrent.
The lore of the school is what girls from the walled city get to experience.

Kos Minar of Manhala

OS Minar or Mile Pillars are medieval milestones that were made by the 16thcentury Afghan Ruler Sher Shah Suri and later on by Mughal emperors. Well most of us who got interest in historical architectures of Lahore, knows that one of the remains of KOS Minar located in Gari Shahu area of Lahore. 

Whereas, one such similar edifice exists in Manhala village located in outskirts of Lahore. From distance it appears to be a brick chimney, one has to walk around the fields to reach to it. The Minar bottom foundation portion is not in good shape, some bricks are missing which ultimately weaken the strength of whole structure.
It is sad to note that Kos Minar located in Gari Shahu is properly protected with construction of park around it. Whereas, no one from authorities looking notice for protection of this structure. For more details and information about this contact (aliusman739@gmail.com)

EXPLORING KANNA MATA GURDAWARA NEAR CHHAPA VILLAGE

Kashif Gurki is a good friend of mine; his ancestors are natives of outskirts of Lahore. He is living in city from childhood and has visited these areas from time to time. Kashif has keen interest towards history, old architectural buildings and one can call him the ‘Khoji’ of these areas. In these numerous villages, there are hundreds of small and 'less important' structures bequeathed to us by our ancestors. 

I gather information about these structures by spending hours of time on Google maps and also inquire locals to try to get some clues of location, directions and history. I then bookmark the place in my mind. I am not a writer or historian; I only have passion to explore our ancestor’s great heritage. I have a six working days at job and only one day off but still I want to pay a visit once to these sites before they vanish forever.

Dilemma of time is that nobody visits them except the passionate history lovers like me. Some of these structures are even enlisted in the archaeology heritage list, but hardly ever any effort has been made to preserve them. 

Along with Kashif Gurki and other friends; we are exploring outskirt of Lahore from last three years. Padhana, Jevan Singh, Sandhwalia, Nawar and Manhala are few names which we have visited in past few years. We found remains of numbers of great Sikh era architectures in these areas. 

On one early morning of May; we once again headed on bikes to explore these neglected historically rich areas. This time we were in search of an old edifice about which we heard that it’s located somewhere near Chhappa village. We started our journey from Shalimar garden and further headed towards BRB canal. We crossed BRB canal near to point where Lahore canal begins. After crossing BRB canals on left side there exists Kherianwala Pul. This historical bridge was built during British era on Shah Naher. Shah Nahar was dug out by Ali Mardan Khan from Jodhpur (Now India) to lahore with 2 lakh rupees during Mughal Empire Shah Jahan for irrigation of Shalimar Bagh. Shah Nahar was 161 kilometer long. The portion of Shah Naher beyond BRB Canal is dried up after 1947 independence as India Stopped water flow in it and now remaining portion of canal taking water from BRB canal. We further ridded along the dried up Shah Nahar portion to reach Chhappa village, meanwhile Kashif Gurki shared with us story of ‘Moran Dancer’ related to Shah Nahar. 

Mahraja Ranjeet Singh built a bridge on Shah Nahars famous Kanjri da Pul for ‘Moran Tawaif ‘.she was the famous dancer of Amritsar. It is said that one day while crossing the canal one of her shoes fell into the water which vexed her a great deal and a bridge was constructed on her insistence. Now this Pul in India near Indo-pak boarder. ‘Pul Kanjari’ is a famous World heritage site declared by UNESCO. It is one among the heritage sight built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, where he used to take rest while passing by along with his royal troop. During his reign, Pul Kanjari was an important trading centre and the king used to stay there for few days when travelling between Lahore and Amritsar. 

At last, we reached Chhappa village. The remains of Gurdawara is located outside the village. There is no approach road after the village; one has to walk around the fields to reach to Gurdawara. It is single storey square building with dome at top. One wall of structure is destroyed due to roots of a nearby tree which demolished the brick work. There is one opening on eastern side, which was definitely used as door, as it’s an auspicious Hindu tradition. I have seen many other Gurdawara’s architectures in nearby villages of this area but found this structure quite different and mysterious because of following reasons. 
1- No Gurdawara in the area is single storey.
2- It looks more to me a tomb then a Gurdawara. 

I came to conclusion that maybe it was a tomb of Mughal era and during Sikh era that might be converted into Gurdawara. There are also remains of deep well and Sarovar in surroundings. 

At present, the structure is in extremely bad condition and already converted into ruin. If not taken care then in few years these ruin will also be vanished forever.( For further detail please contact at (aliusman739@gmail.com))

THE HERCULUES OF SUBCONTINENT - #KIKKAR SINGH OF CHANTEKE

Before the independence of 1947, in the small village of Lahore district named Chanteke (now locals named it Ghanenki), a famous wrestler of sub-continent Kikkar Singh born. Ghanenki located very near to Indo-Pak border hardly 3.5 kilometers from the borderline. In order to reach there, one has to travel on Burki road and first reach Hadyara village, further to that you have to follow Hadyara to Ghanenki road which is seven kilometers in distance. There is also one other approach route i.e., Manhalla to Ghanenki road. We follow the second route because we have to see some other historical sites in Manhalla and its surroundings (There details of them will be published separately). We started at 5:30 am in the morning and reach Ghanenki around 10 am.

Pehelvan Kikkar Singh Sandhu Kikkar Singh Sandhu 'Pehelvan' was a wrestler of legendary fame. He was born on 13 January 1857 to Javala Singh Sandhu and Sahib Kaur, a farming couple of moderate means living in the village ot Chanteke, in the Lahore district. Javtla Singh, himself a wrestler, wished his only son to train as one. Young Kikkar Singh began his apprenticeship in his mother's native village, Nurpur, under Gulam, the potter. As he returned to his own village, he started practicing with an elderly wrestler, Vasava Singh, who taught him many fine points of the sport. He had already made a name as a wrestler by the time he put himself under the tutelage of Buta Pahilvan, Rustam-i-Hind, of Lahore.

When Boota Pahelwan retired from the sport in the late 19th century, his gigantic Sikh pupil was acknowledged as champion. Kikkar Singh’s prodigious frame and Herculean strength soon became hallmarks sought after by the rulers of the princely states of Jodhpur, Indore, Datia, Tonk, and Jammu and Kashmir. His physique and strength were of such proportions that the Maharaja of Kashmir regarded him as an incarnation of Bhairav, the fierce form of Shiva. But with all his size, he wrestled with the nimbleness of a lion. Few competitors could match the strength and skill of this ‘Dev-i-Hind’ (demi-god of India).

Kikkar Singh’s greatest rival was Ghulam Pahelwan of Amritsar. They fought on several occasions, drawing huge crowds from all over Punjab to their epic bouts. After Ghulam’s death in 1900, his brother Kalloo, laid claim to his title, but Kikkar Singh stood in his way. Of the seven times they grappled, Kikkar Singh won four matches, lost two and drew their last, which took place during the Delhi Durbar celebrations held in December 1911 to commemorate King George V’s coronation. Kikkar Singh was challenged by his old rival, Kalloo. Although the Sikh was way past his prime (he had grown enormous: according to the referee, Brigadier General Charles Granville Bruce, his weight had ballooned from his prime weight of 19 stones or 266 pounds to 26 stones or 364 pounds) and had become a patient of asthma, he would not let a challenge go unanswered. When the match began, the two pahelwans were said to have circled the arena like two hungry lions. Kalloo brought Kikkar Singh to the ground but was fouled by the giant. On resuming the match Kalloo gave Kikkar Singh a thorough beating until the referee intervened and declared the match a draw.

Kikkar Singh died in 1914 at his native village where a ‘samadhi’ or memorial shrine was raised in his memory.

What appears to be a small structure now, spread over a few hundred square feet, could have been a much larger complex at the time of its zenith. It is a double storey structure with a splendid dome. 

Despite its horrible state, the structure still commands a lot of respect, because of its sheer aesthetic. This smadhi is a fine blend of two great cultures, Hindu and Muslim, which culminated in the Sikh culture of Punjab. So to a curious student of history all this talk about 'us' and 'them' seems superficial. 

The original structure was completed in white limestone, which has now given away to a black corrosive powder, as a result of decades of ignorance. A brick wall surrounds the structure from the three sides, however originally it must have covered the complete structure, and the entrance would have been from the eastern side, as is auspicious in the Hindu tradition. The door leading inside the smadhi is locked; however we managed to peek inside from a small crack in the door. The building is elaborately decorated in the interior, with floral and geometric motifs adorning the dome and other niches. They are still fresh, and can be easily revived with just a little effort. The walls inside are also covered with limestone. The aura of the smadhi in the environs of the village leads one to the conclusion that this belongs to perhaps, the most important person of the village. 

This is the final resting place of the great Indian Pehalwan Kikkar Singh. A detailed story of his life can be found in the Encyclopedia of Sikh literature. The fact that the smadhi belongs to this Pehalwan and nobody else is also established by the Land Revenue Records of the village of Ghania Keh, noted down during the British era. He was born here on October 13, 1857. During his lifetime, he became renowned all over the country -- which brought him much fame and wealth. Among the famous wrestlers that he has defeated are Goonga Pehalwan, Ghulam Muhammad aka Gama Pehalwan, Kalu Pehalwan, etc. His father Jawala Singh was also a wrestler; however, he couldn't attain the heights that his son did. Kikkar Singh got his initial training from his father but was subsequently trained by a local Pehalwan Ghulami. According to the encyclopedia of Sikh literature, Kikkar received two important titles, Pehalwan-e-Hind and Dev-e-Hind. 

The stories and legends of Kikkar Singh have inspired Punjabi poets and writers over decades. One such poet, who wrote an entire piece on him, was Maula Bakhsh Khusta, a book shop owner in Amritsar. He lived before the Partition of British India. Kikkar Singh's real name was Prem Singh. It is said that once he returned from a wrestling match at Jammu, and told his mother that he was starving. She told him that there was no wood to cook food, so Kikkar went outside and uprooted an entire Kikkar tree and brought it back to his mother. This is how he became famous as Kikkar Singh. Even today, people recall this story. 

It is, however, a pity that even though he lived, died, and was interred on this side of the border; we have not given this legend his due status. In India, however, Kikkar Singh is still remembered and celebrated as a hero. In 1995, Ajit Jalandar Akhbar published a story on this hero, which came in three parts. The following incident is taken from that story: It is said that his father was a huge man and was popular in the region. Once a government bank was looted and his father was arrested on suspicion. He was imprisoned without any proof for three years but was later released with the help of a British policeman whose family he had rescued from fire at one time. Once a wrestler by the name of Chanan came to Kikkar and pleaded in front of him that he was a poor man and couldn't defeat him. So when both of them fight in front of the Nawab of Bahawalpur, Kikkar Singh should not defeat him, neither will he. Kikkar agreed. However, when the fight began Chanan tried to defeat Kikkar. This inflamed Prem Singh who told the Nawab everything. The Nawab retorted that since both of them had cheated him, both of them should be put behind bars. Eventually, he decided on a rematch, in which Kikkar defeated Chanan and got a big reward. However, Prem could not completely recover from the humiliation of going to jail. The embarrassment of both father and son having been incarcerated on a false pretext was too much for him to take, and he soon passed away in depression. 

We forget our great heritage and heroes of the sub-continent. At present, the Samadhi is in very bad condition and already converted into ruins and in few years these ruins will also vanish forever.( For further detail please contact at (aliusman739@gmail.com))