Ali Usman Baig : The Forgotten Mahan Singh Garden and his Samadhi in Lahore

22-04-2018

Samadhi

One of the cherished memories from my childhood is the sight of an old structure standing proudly between Naz Cinema and St. John Church as I crossed Mission Road in Lahore. During that time, some of our relatives resided near Civil Lines College in Lahore, and whenever we visited them, we would hire a Tonga from Lahore Railway Station. The usual route would take us through Lakshami Chowk, and occasionally Tonga would turn from Mission Road into Bansaanwala Bazaar, Shah Alam, until finally reaching our last stop, Daata Sahib. It was during these journeys, approximately thirty years ago, that I first became acquainted with this intriguing edifice.

As a child, I couldn't discern the difference between a 'Samadhi' and a 'Mandir.' Whenever I inquired about this particular structure from my father, he would always refer to it as a 'Mandir' and explain that this area was once inhabited by a thriving Hindu community before the Partition of 1947.

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit this edifice. I discovered that it is, in fact, a 'Samadhi' dedicated to Mahan Singh. Situated within the housing quarters of St. John Church, the area encompassing St. John Church and Naz Cinema is also known as "Mahan Singh ka Bagh" (Mahan Singh's Garden).

Although not much historical information is available about Mahan Singh, it is believed that he was an esteemed courtier during the reign of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. The Maharaja granted him this land as a token of appreciation. When examining historical records, the only name that matches that of Mahan Singh during Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's era is that of Sardar Raja Mahan Singh Mirpuri (d. 1844). Sardar Raja Mahan Singh Mirpuri was a renowned general in the Sikh Khalsa Army and served as the second-in-command to General Sardar Hari Singh Nalwa. He earned the title of Raja from Maharaja Ranjit Singh for his conquests in Haripur, Nowshehra, and Peshawar. The town of Mansehra derives its name from him. During a hunting expedition of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in Lahore, Mahan Singh, who was in search of employment at the time, caught the Maharaja's attention by single-handedly slaying a leopard with his sword. Impressed by his bravery, the Maharaja enlisted him into the army under the renowned General Hari Singh Nalwa.

Mahan Singh played a pivotal role in the battles of Peshawar and Kashmir. He also showed remarkable courage during the siege of Multan in 1818, where he was seriously wounded on two occasions. Eventually, he rose to become the second-in-command to Hari Singh Nalwa. In April 1837, he valiantly defended the Jamrud Fort against Afghan invaders, even concealing the news of Hari Singh Nalwa's demise until reinforcements arrived from Lahore.

Following the death of Hari Singh Nalwa, Mai Desan, his widow adopted Mahan Singh as her son and arranged his marriage into a Mohan family from Gujranwala, following Muhiyal traditions. Tragically, Sardar Raja Mahan Singh met his untimely demise in 1844 when mutiny erupted within the Sikh Khalsa Army, and he was murdered by his own soldiers.

Regrettably, the Samadhi is currently in a state of disrepair and is being used for storage purposes. Nonetheless, traces of fresco artwork can still be observed within the premises. The approximate coordinates of this site are 31°34'4.62"N, 74°19'13.55"E