The historical Saman Burj of Wazirabad

 23^rd  April 2023

"All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig. This article was written after referencing Muhammad Hassan Miraj's article, 'The Burj,' published in Dawn on October 02, 2012."

Wazirabad, a city steeped in history, was established by Wazir Khan, the governor, and later Grand Vizier of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, during the 17th century. One of the city's remarkable historical wonders is Saman Burj, also known as Musamman Burj.

The Persian term "Musamman" translates to figure eight, and these 57 canals of history encompass a vast complex of structures. The two main gates feature a configuration of four watchtowers each, giving rise to the moniker "Musamman Burj." The Musamman Burj in Agra is also renowned for its distinctive architecture.

Legend has it that Jehangir and his wife, Noor Jehan, frequently stayed at Musamman Burj while en route to Kashmir. This location was formerly the Royal Sarai erected during Emperor Jehangir's reign in 1601 AD. Each year, when the Chenab River was flowing strongly, the emperor and his queen would spend several days at the site while traveling from Lahore to Kashmir.

Charat Singh, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's grandfather, took over Saman Burj when the Mughal Empire was in decline in 1752. After renovating the complex, he added new structures and took up residence there. His son Maha Singh, the father of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, subsequently occupied the site.

At present, it is noteworthy that neither Sikhs nor Mughals inhabit Saman Burj. The current inhabitants claim to be the relatives of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir's second wife, Begum Bai, a Jaral Rajput from Rajauri in Indian-occupied Kashmir. Begum Bai was also Emperor Shah Aalam's mother.

In 1799, when the Mughal empire was in decline, the Sikh empire led by Ranjeet Singh gained control of parts of Punjab and Kashmir, including Rajauri. However, "Maharajah Ranjeet Singh of Punjab had occupied Rajouri and other Punjab Hills States in 1813. But he had allowed the Raja of Rajaur (Aagar Khan) to rule the state."

After the British defeated the Sikhs in the first Anglo-Sikh war in 1846, they sold Kashmir to Dogra Singh under the treaty of Amritsar, and the Jarral Rajas were forced to abandon their palaces and homes. Overwhelmed with sadness at the loss of their land, which they had ruled for six centuries, the Rajas left Rajauri and relocated to Rehlu in Kangra, Punjab.

Subsequently, due to a family dispute, a member named Raja Fakirullah purchased the land with Rs 6,000 from the British and moved into Wazirabad's Saman Burj. It is said that Fakirullah chose to stay in Wazirabad with the hope of eventually returning to Rajauri. That is how the Jarral Rajputs came to live in Saman Burj in Wazirabad.

The complex spans approximately seven acres and is surrounded by a massive wall with access through two large gates. The site includes havelis and Bara Darri for residential use, with four acres of gardens in the center accessible by walkways leading to the residences. On the northern end of Saman Burj flows a tributary of the Chenab River known as Pulkhu.

 I explored different parts of the building, enthralled by the paintings on the walls, yet also disheartened by the neglect that had befallen this magnificent art. From the pillars supporting the building to the wall paintings, everything exemplified an artistic grandeur rarely seen in contemporary architecture. The room on the top floor was where Jehangir and his wife resided.

On the top floor, there were abundant paintings adorning its walls. These artworks portrayed scenes of Guru Nanak preaching and Maharaja Ranjeet Singh joyously celebrating the Holi Festival. Additionally, there were depictions of flowers and horsemen.

The room that was once Maharaja Ranjit Singh's abode has been meticulously preserved, eagerly awaiting the arrival of royal occupants. Presently, two families reside within this palatial residence, occupying different quarters: the Thakur family and the Raja family. Notably, esteemed visitors such as Quaid-e-Azam and Imran Khan top the list.

While there may be debates regarding whether the government or any other organization should assist in restoring these sites, one cannot deny that the structures standing in the north of Wazirabad speak volumes even in their dilapidated state. Places like Saman Burj are not mere collections of ancient structures; they hold within them the tales of every brick, the essence of every particle of soil, and the allure of each painting, captivating those who possess an affinity for the rich history of the subcontinent.