Rediscovering the Sheesh Mahal: A Forgotten Gem of Wazirabad

 23^rd  April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Sheesh Mahal was a renowned palace that graced the city of Wazirabad once, which exudes a captivating history and unparalleled architectural allure. While the present-day Wazirabad may only harbor a locality bearing a reminiscent name, the scant remnants of this majestic palace provide a tantalizing glimpse into its glorious bygone era. Its construction began during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir but remained incomplete for unknown reasons. It was not until centuries later, during the rule of Sikh Emperor Ranjeet Singh in Punjab, that the palace's construction recommenced under the supervision of Dewan Hikmat Ray.

Sheesh Mahal stood atop a ten-foot-high platform, elevating it from the ground level of the city. The palace showcased intricate carvings on tall wooden elements, while its doors were adorned with exquisite designs and patterns. It radiated an aura of grandeur and opulence, with its mesmerizing mirrorwork and mosaic art. Mirrors, glass, and reflective surfaces were intricately incorporated into the walls, ceilings, pillars, and even portions of the floors. Geometric patterns, floral motifs, and meticulous detailing adorned the palace, making it a sight to behold.

The mirrored ceilings of Sheesh Mahal were particularly enchanting. Countless mirrors were meticulously arranged to create a sparkling effect. When sunlight or candle flames reflected off the mirrors, it transformed the ceilings into a mesmerizing spectacle, resembling a starry night sky. The walls of the palace also boasted mirrors and glass, intricately carved and fitted with mirror pieces of various shapes and sizes. These reflective surfaces multiplied the light, creating an illusion of spaciousness. The strategic placement of windows and openings ensured the capture and direction of sunlight, amplifying the reflection and sparkle of the mirrors.

Inside the palace, remnants of fresco work can still be observed. The technique of fresco painting, involving the application of pigments directly onto wet plaster, once adorned the walls, adding to the artistic richness of Sheesh Mahal. The Bardari structure within the palace featured a central water hose with fountains at each corner. The flooring was meticulously designed using different colors of small tiles. The palace boasted fortified walls, entrance gates, and surrounding fruit gardens.

Notable historical figures, such as William Moorcroft, an English veterinarian and explorer employed by the East India Company, have mentioned Sheesh Mahal in their writings. The palace has witnessed the reigns of Charat Singh, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and Dewan Hikmat Roy, each leaving their mark on its history. Tragically, Dewan Hikmat Roy was assassinated on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, leaving the palace abandoned for a period of time.

The construction of Sheesh Mahal involved numerous artisans and craftsmen brought from various parts of the country. They established residential camps during the construction period and later settled permanently in the area now known as "Gali Sheeshawali" in Wazirabad. Interestingly, a unique feature of the palace was the presence of a rainwater collection tank on the rooftop known as "Asmani Khooh," a structure rarely seen elsewhere. 

Surrounding Sheesh Mahal, there were additional features such as a cremation ground and a Hindu temple to the north, and a Gurudwara to the south. A tributary of the Chenab River, called Pulkhu, flowed to the north. A nearby brick kiln near the Pir Mitha graveyard was responsible for supplying the small bricks used in the palace's construction. The palace also boasted a variety of fruit trees in its gardens, and nearby servant quarters and guest rooms were constructed to accommodate residents and visitors.

Over time, the remnants of Sheesh Mahal faded away, and despite its significance, little has been done to restore this remarkable piece of history. Today, only an arched gateway remains, surrounded by newly constructed houses populated by migrant families since 1947. Nevertheless, the legacy of Sheesh Mahal lives on through the stories of its notable inhabitants, such as Dewan Reepa Ram of Jammu Kashmir and the visit of Ahmad Shah Abdali during his invasion of India.

Sheesh Mahal, with its basement, tunnel network, vine storages, and rich history, holds countless untold tales. It has been witness to extravagant events, including the lavish wedding of the son of Mahtir Col. Ahmad Hassan, the Grand Wazir of Chitral. While the physical structure may have faded, the memory of Sheesh Mahal continues to captivate those who delve into its intriguing past.