(I could not have written this article without the guidance and invaluable insights of Dr. Zishan.)
November 2024
Once upon a time, Lahore hosted a unique and vibrant event, often called the Fair of Footsteps. Officially linked to the arrival and meditative practices of Hazrat Sakhi Sarwar in the city, the fair was, in truth, a curious mix of eccentricities and oddities. Originally held near the Baradari of Wazir Khan in Bagh Nakhlah, it was relocated outside Lahori Gate after the establishment of a Sikh cantonment displaced it from its original location.
The relocation transformed the stretch between Lahori Gate and Anarkali Police Station into a bustling hub of frenetic activity. A chaotic mix of people thronged the area, drummers roamed with instruments slung around their necks, singing and celebrating. The crowd was diverse, even controversial, as performers and prostitutes mingled freely with individuals from all walks of life.
At the heart of this lively gathering stood Chauki Sakhi Sarwar, believed to mark the meditation site of Lakh Daata Hazrat Sakhi Sarwar. However, as Nur Ahmad Chishti noted, the chauki was allegedly a fabrication by the “Pherais” to exploit the saint’s legacy for personal gain. Over time, as the fair declined and the Pherais could no longer profit, they sold the property.
The new owners, Sanatan Dharmis, transformed the site into a Dharamshala in memory of their late father. A *Dharamshala* is an Indian religious rest house, with *dharma* meaning "religion" and *shala* meaning "sanctuary." These rest houses are primarily built for pilgrims and often serve as religious endowments. The building, an architectural jewel of its time, bore the following inscription:
Dharamshala
In honor of the esteemed Rai Bahadur Seth Ajudha Peeshad, Honary Magistrate in 1934,
This monument was built by his devoted sons: Seth Ram Rattan, Ram Narayan, and Shadi Lal,
To preserve their father's legacy.
Established on the 5th of November, 1937, in New Anarkali, Lahore.
The Partition of 1947 disrupted the Dharamshala's serene existence. Migrants moved in, partitioning its open courtyard with makeshift walls to create cramped living spaces. Over the years, whispers of the Fair of Lakh Daata’s Footsteps resurfaced, intertwined with the site's forgotten history.
My good friend Dr. Zishan explored the place a few years ago and shared its story. A resident woman claimed to have received a divine sign in her dream, urging the revival of the chauki. Acting on her vision, a modest shrine was built in the loft, draped in a green cloth inscribed with sacred verses. An annual celebration on the 12th of Rabi-ul-Awwal was initiated to honor the saint.
Intrigued, I decided to visit the site in November 2024, wandering through the narrow, bustling streets of Anarkali Bazaar. The building was in an advanced state of decay, as Dr. Zishan had described. Its crumbling walls and faded arches stood as silent witnesses to a forgotten legacy.
Pushing open a creaking wooden door, I stepped into the dimly lit interior. The silence was oppressive, broken only by the faint echo of my footsteps. A narrow staircase led upward, where a sliding gate marked the entrance to the shrine. Beyond the gate lay a small, honorary grave—a symbolic reminder of Sakhi Sarwar’s meditation site. Surprisingly well-kept, the tomb was adorned with mosaic glass, suggesting that someone still cared for the sacred space.
As I stood there, a strange heaviness enveloped me. The air was thick with the weight of forgotten stories, unspoken prayers, and an aura of solemn reverence. The modest shrine, hidden within this dilapidated structure, seemed to radiate an enduring spirit. Walking back through the neglected arches, I couldn’t shake the sense that I had brushed against something profound—a fragment of Lahore’s layered history that lingers quietly, waiting to be remembered.
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