THE THREE HISTORICAL GURDWARAS OF EMINABAD (2020)

Date of Visit:- 23 August 2020

(All pictures are taken by me, writeup taken from the site 'Discover Sikhism)

Eminabad, an ancient town in the Gujranwala district of Pakistan, used to be known as Sayyidpur or Saidpur during the time of Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Ji.

According to the Bhai Bala Janam Sakhi, after leaving Sultanpur and before setting out on his long travels, Guru Nanak, accompanied by Bhai Mardana, first visited Eminabad where Bhai Lalo, a carpenter by profession, became his Sikh.

The Gurbani of Guru Nanak in the Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji suggests that he was in Eminabad when the town was sacked by Babar in 1521.

Janam Sakhis also mention that during the attack by the Mughal force the Guru was held in prison and given a stone mill to ply.

Eminabad came under Sikh rule when Sardar Charhat Singh Sukkarchakkia occupied it during the 1760s.

Charat Singh was the grandfather of Maharaja Ranjit Singh.

The town has important historic Gurdwaras which were administered by the Shiromam Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee from 28 February 1922 until 1947.

There are 3 Historic Sikh Gurdwaras at Eminabad.

Gurdwara Khuhi Bhai Lalo

 32° 2'30.10"N 74°15'41.56"E

Gurdwara Khuhi Bhai Lalo marks the house and the well (Khuhi, in Punjabi) belonging to Bhai Lalo where Guru Nanak first met him. Bhai Lalo was born in 1452 in the village of Saidpur, presently known as Eminabad, in Pakistan. Bhai Lalo's father's name was Bhai Jagat Ram of the Ghataura surname belonging to the carpenter clan.

Guru Nanak stayed with Bhai Lalo on several occasions. Bhai Lalo's house became a dharmsala, a meeting place for the local followers of Guru Nanak. Later the house was developed into Gurdwara which was named after the khuhi (narrow well) which existed even when the old house had crumbled.

History

Bhai Lalo is known in Sikh history for a particular story when Guru Nanak was visiting. When Malik Bhago, an important government official of the city, provided food for all religious holy men he invited Guru Nanak Sahib too.

Guru Nanak declined the invitation of Malik Bhago. On being summoned through official command a second time, Guru Nanak Sahib took Bhai Lalo with him and went to Malik Bhago's house. With great anger Malik Bhago said to Guru Nanak, 'You are dishonoring Kshatriyas by eating dry chapatis in the house of a carpenter. My feast offers you delicious food. Why do you refuse to eat it?'

Guru Nanak Sahib took Malik Bhago's buttered bread in his left hand and Bhai Lalo's plain bread in his right hand. When Guru Nanak squeezed his left hand, with the Malik Bhago's buttered bread, everyone saw blood trickling from it. When Guru Nanak squeezed his right hand, the people saw drops of milk dripping from it. Malik Bhago became silent.

Guru Nanak explained that Malik's income was earned by sucking the blood of the poor people whereas the income of this carpenter had the milk earned from his hard labor. "This was the reason behind my rejection of your rich food and that was why I preferred the simple bread earned through hard labor," said the Guru.

Gurdwara Sri Rori Sahib Eminabad

 32° 2'51.57"N 74°14'57.00"E

Gurdwara Sri Rori Sahib Eminabad marks the site where Guru Nanak stayed with Bhai Lalo after the destruction of the Saidpur by Babur. Here Guru Nanak had to sit and lie down on a hard bed of pebbles (small stones) (Rori in Punjabi) as alluded to in Bhai Gurdas Varan 1.

When the armies of Babar entered Punjab in 1521, Guru Nanak was present in Saidpur. At the time of the capture of Saidpur, many locals were arrested, including Guru Nanak. At the time of the arrest, Guru Nanak was sitting here at Gurdwara Sri Rori Sahib Eminabad on the pebbles and was praying to God. The Gurdwara stands at the place of the pebbles.

Gurdwara

An imposing Gurdwara has been built over the place. A large pond and other buildings make it more graceful. A large estate worth Rs.5000 per annum and 9 squares of agricultural land were endowed to the Gurdwara from the era of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Vaisakhi and Kattak Puranmashi festivals used to be held in the past but only the Vaisakhi festival is held now where people from Gujranwala and its adjoining areas participate with fanfare.

This was the premier gurdwara of the town. Its central building is a three-story imposing structure of cut brickwork, which is topped with three chhatri-like structures covered with a large central gumbaz (dome) with smaller chhatris (dome-shaped pavilions) on either side. A rectangular hall adjoins it on the left side of the entry. A large Sarovar, surrounded by low walls on two of its sides is set askew to the right of the central entry tower. At the rear of the complex, there is a room topped with a particularly exquisite ribbed white lotus dome with a circumambulatory verandah. This room covers the pebbled area on which Guru Nanak was arrested.

Before Partition, Eminabad was known for its week-long Vaisakhi fair which included largely attended Sangat gatherings of the Sikhs in Gurdwara Sri Rori Sahib as well as the usual fun and a cattle fair. The multi-story building was set on fire by a mob of Muslim zealots soon after the partition of Punjab on 15th August 1947. The building of the Gurdwara was falling apart but the Government of Pakistan stemmed the rot by making repairs and constructing its boundary wall.

Gurdwara Sri Chakki Sahib Eminabad

 32° 2'32.03"N 74°15'35.99"E

Gurdwara Sri Chakki Sahib, at Eminabad, is located where a large chakki (millstone) was kept. The chakki was used by Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Ji during his detention. In the Janamsakhis, it is mentioned that Guru Nanak was taken as a prisoner along with thousands of his fellow countrymen by Emperor Babur's men.

Guru Nanak was, along with many of his fellow prisoners, forced to grind corn with hand-driven chakki's (millstones). His captors were surprised to see that the millstone used by Guru Nanak was turning, by itself, while Guru Nanak was simply pouring grist into the opening in the stone as he sang kirtan in remembrance of God.

Guru Nanak's singing to 'One God' (the Mughals as Muslims also believed in One God) and, even more, the stone's turning by itself amazed the Mughal soldiers who brought this to the immediate attention of Babur.

When the miracle was reported to Babur, he himself came to meet Guru Nanak. After talking to Guru Nanak, Babur set Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana free. Babur also freed thousands of other prisoners too, many of whom became the Guru's followers.

The millstone was preserved as an object of veneration and much later, a Gurdwara was established where the millstone was kept, named Gurdwara Sri Chakki Sahib Eminabad. Its present building is a simple flat-roofed room with some ancillaries and a brick-paved compound, inside the town.

Baba Ram Thaman Shrine Kalu Khara, Kasur, Punjab (2021)

Relevance: Sikhism, Hinduism, Udassi Shrine

Date of Visit:- 20 November 2021

 (All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights) 

The Baba Ram Thaman Shrine, situated in the Khala Kharu village of the Kasur District in Pakistan's Punjab province, holds great historical and religious significance. This revered Hindu shrine is dedicated to Baba Ram Thaman, a saint who lived during the 16th century and was known for his association with Guru Nanak, the revered founder of Sikhism. Over time, the shrine has grown in importance, attracting devotees and visitors from various communities.

During the 16th century, Baba Ram Thaman established his camp near the Khala Kharu village, and following his passing, a shrine was constructed at the very location. In addition to the shrine, several temples and a pond were later added to the complex, enhancing its spiritual ambiance. Devotees of Baba Ram Thaman also settled in the vicinity of the temple complex until the partition.

One of the significant events held at the shrine is the annual Vaisakhi fair, which has been celebrated since the 16th century CE. This fair attracts a large number of pilgrims, with approximately 60,000 attendees each year. It is a testament to the enduring cultural and religious traditions associated with Baba Ram Thaman.

Even after the partition, the Vaisakhi celebrations continue to be held at the Baba Ram Thaman Shrine. It is worth noting that a majority of the attendees are Muslims, showcasing the shrine's ability to foster communal harmony and serve as a place of reverence for people from diverse religious backgrounds.

The Baba Ram Thaman Shrine holds a significant place in the hearts of Hindus and serves as a symbol of religious tolerance and unity. As a Smadh, it represents a sacred space constructed over the burial ground of a Hindu saint, following the customs of the Ramanandi Sampradaya of Vaishnavas, one of the 36 sects of Vaishnavism.

In summary, the Baba Ram Thaman Shrine in the Khala Kharu village is a renowned Hindu shrine dedicated to Baba Ram Thaman, a 16th-century Vaishnav saint. It is famous for its annual Vaisakhi fair, which has been celebrated since the 16th century and continues to attract a large number of devotees. This shrine serves as a beacon of communal harmony, with Muslim attendees forming the majority. It holds great cultural and religious significance and is revered by people from diverse backgrounds.

Kot Ramdas

Kot Ramdas, the Ruin of Gurdwara & Grave of Muslim Saint in Sikh Smadi

Visited the place: 02-07-2017

(All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights)

Kot Ramdas is a small village, which is situated some three miles South of Nandipur. 

Outside of this village, in green fields, a two-story, square, British-era building is standing. At first glance, the building does not give you any impression that this was an old Gurdwara. Locals told before the 1947 Partition, KOT Ramdas was a Sikh populated Village. After, Pakistan came into being; no Sikh family left in Kot Ramdas as they migrated to India. From then, it was converted and used as a girl’s school. A few years back the top roof which was resting on wooden beams has been collapsed and also it created cracks on walls.  The building is in no use now and in extremely critical condition and can be fallen down at any time.  

Nobody knows the exact history and year of construction of this Gurdwara. However, the building structural member’s configuration and construction material usage give a rough idea that it must have been constructed in the early years of the Nineteenth Century.

The most interesting element of fascination in the front elevation is the multifold arch entrance. Also, the arrangement of square windows and closed brick masonry arches in the front elevation wall was magnificently designed.

In front of Gurdwara, we found the remnant of a brick masonry wall, which was used as a Sarovar in past. Sarovar/sacred pools are considered to have curative properties because of the continual prayers of Sikh scripture recited in the vicinity.

On the backside, of this Gurdwara three well-constructed Smadi’s are present. Unfortunately, the inner walls which once painted with fresco artwork are whitewashed. However, the outer walls' paintwork is still in original colors up to some extent. On top of Smadi’s roof domes are present with equal partitioned lining and artwork.

Well, constructed Smadi’s is a sign that Sikhs living in KOT Ramdas village before the 1947 partition must be wealthy and rich. There is also a fourth Smadi’s which is located at some distance from Gurdwara.

In one Smadi, you will find a grave, which is told to be of a Muslim Saint.  This Smadi was tried to be converted into a Tomb. However, Locals told that it was an illegal failed attempt to occupy the Gurdwara’s land.

In past, there was also a well in the vicinity, which was filled with time.

One more interesting thing is the carved painting of a peacock on the backside boundary wall.

There is no research and writing specifically done on this Gurdwara. My purpose in visiting this place was to document this place before it got vanished from my eyes forever.

One last thing, which hurts me after visiting this place, was that this building was used as a school for more than five decades.  When I visit this place, there were children playing in the vicinity of this gurdwara, most of them telling proudly their parents got an education in this building in past. Now the building taking its last breath, this building was their first institute of schooling, which is now turned into ruins.

Everybody has childhood memories, specifically associated with their schools. I don’t know how the old alumnus of this school feels, as their childhood memories turned into ruins and debris.

I wished they at least have taken some steps to preserve their school if not doing this for a Gurdwara building.

 (ELEVATION)

 (ELEVATION)

 (SMADI)

 The Smadi Converted into Shrine

 (Three Smadi's)

 (Fersco Art Work)

 (ELEVATION)

 Gurdawara and Smadi's in Background

  Ruins

 Elevation

 Smadi's

 The carved Peacock Painting on Boundary Wall

 Krishna Painting

 Elevation

 Smadis

 The Muslim Grave in Smadi

 Smadi

 (Author)

 (Smadi)

 (another View)

(04th Smadi)