Chiniot Less Explored 2018 (Pre-Partition Buildings)-1

 07th March 2018

The Forty-Seven Forts of Ancient Cholistan and its surroundings 

( All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights) 

 for text consulted  book 'Ancient Cholistan' by Dr. Muhammad Rafique Mughal

22-02-2021

 

1. Cholistan: -

Cholistan has a rich history, in ancient times, it was a lush region with a large river fed by meltwater from the Himalayas, and so has a high density of ancient settlements from the Indus Valley Civilization period dating back as early as 4000 BCE. Ganweriwala is situated near the Indian border on the dry riverbed of the Ghaggar-Hakra, now part of a vast desert. It is spread over 80 hectares and comparable in size with the largest sites of the Indus Valley Civilization.

TThe Cholistan Desert also locally known as Rohi is large in the southern part of Punjab, Pakistan that forms part of the Greater Thar Desert, which extends to Sindh province and the Indian state of Rajasthan. It is one of two large deserts in Punjab. 

 

2. The Desert Forts: -

 

The region later became a center for caravan trade, leading to the construction of numerous forts in the medieval period to protect trade routes - of which the Derawar Fort is the best.

 

3. My Journey of Exploring Cholistan Forts: -

 

I visited Derawar Fort in 2013 at that time I thought that it was the only fort present in the Cholistan desert. I have a keen interest in navigating Google maps, somebody has uploaded images of four other forts present in the desert. I continued my search and able to mark fifteen more desert fort’s location pins on Google Maps. 

Meanwhile, I also found a book 'Ancient Cholistan' by Dr. Muhammad Rafique Mughal, he listed down the names of forty-one forts present in the Cholistan its outskirts. With eight years of research and visiting more than fifteen forts in Cholistan, I concluded that there were forty-Seven forts in total.

 

I categorized them into four groups according to my knowledge. 

4. Forts, which have some remains still left.

 

	Derawar Fort	(28°45'54.88"N,71°20'35.96"E)
	Maujgarh Fort	(29° 0'48.98"N, 72° 8'21.51"E)
	Marot Fort	(29°10'37.11"N, 72°26'2.99"E)
	Jamgarh Fort	(29°10'3.87"N, 72°32'53.06"E)
	Mirgarh Fort	(29°10'27.76"N, 72°37'16.31"E)
	Phulra Fort/ Fort Abbas	(29°10'49.16"N, 72°51'40.17"E
	Nawan Kot Fort	(28°20'44.21"N, 71°22'21.21"E)
	Bijnot/ Winjhot Fort	(28° 5'24.05"N, 71°40'54.73"E)
	Khangarh Fort	(28°22'5.74"N, 71°43'2.49"E)
	Rukanpur Fort	(28°23'51.79"N, 72° 2'23.97"E)
	Dingarh Fort	(28°56'34.05"N, 71°50'13.80"E)
	Moochki Fort	(28°20'20.47"N, 70°36'18.41"E)
	Khairgarh Fort	(28°27'42.50"N, 70°50'36.73"E)
	Islamgarh Fort	(27°51'18.22"N, 70°48'27.82"E)

 

 

5. Forts, which are near to extinct.

 

	Bhagla Fort	(28°16'7.00"N,70°30'35.34"E)
	Bara/ Bhara Fort	(28°56'47.62"N, 71°38'0.38"E)
	Muridwala Fort	(28°23'14.21"N, 70°45'52.95"E)
	Mau Mubarak Fort	(28°31'52.11"N, 70°21'44.39"E)
	Ahmadpur Lamma Fort	(28°19'15.13"N, 70° 3'6.45"E)
	Mubarakpur Fort	(29°15'42.11"N, 71°21'26.23"E)
	Unnamed Fort	(28°31'52.11"N, 70°21'44.39"E)
	Momal Ji Mari	(27°58'1.43"N, 69°24'42.65"E)

 

 

6. Forts which rough location is known, but the current condition is unknown.

 

	Fatehgarh Fort	30.2544, 73.802
	Sahibgarh Fort
	Ghauspur Fort
	Qaimpur Fort	(29°41'21.76"N, 72°25'12.47"E)
	Tajgarh Fort	(28°30'33.77"N, 70°15'43.41"E)
	Liyara Fort	(28°11'2.18"N, 69°53'23.79"E)
	Kotsabzal Fort	(28°13'0.67"N, 69°53'29.16"E)
	Kandera Fort	(28° 4'29.58"N, 70°10'32.39"E)
	Fazilpur Fort	(28°16'39.5"N, 69°57'57.2"E)
	Jajjal Fort	(30°11'51.38"N, 73°56'11.56"E)
	Kot Samaba Fort	(28°33'16.11"N, 70°28'5.88"E)
	Nowshera Fort
	Sardargarh Fort	(28°42'34.39"N, 70°26'13.19"E)
	Walhar Fort
	Bahawalgarh Fort	(30° 9'45.30"N, 73°29'18.78"E)
	Gari Ikhtian Khan Fort	(28°40'1.16"N, 70°31'32.15"E)
	Dhuin Fort and mound
	Moonday Shaheed Fort
	Falji Fort	(28°12'37.37"N, 70°13'20.66"E)
	Sarwahi Fort	(28°14'23.46"N, 69°58'17.05"E)
	Ghanipur or Khairpur Fort	(29°34'54.40"N, 72°14'34.03"E)

 

7. Forts, whose no information available 

 

a.      Bahawalpur Fort

b.     Thatta Wattan Fort

c.      Ramkali Fort

d.     Paloli Fort

 

FORTS, WHICH HAVE SOME REMAINS STILL LEFT.

 

a.      Derawar Fort (28°45'54.88"N, 71°20'35.96"E)

The fort at Derawar is the most impressive architecturally and the best-preserved because it was still in the possession of the Nawabs of Bahawalpur. The present fort is believed to be standing on an ancient fort of pre-Islamic date which according to unconfirmed traditions, was reportedly built by "Bhati" ruler Dera Sidh, also known as "Dev Rawal". The fort was originally named after Dev Rawal but later, came to be called Derawar. 

Not much is known of its early history until the fort was captured by the first Nawab of Bahawalpur, Sadiq Muhammad Khan I in A.D. 1733. Six years later, Nadir Shah granted him the title of Nawab along with control over Shikarpur, Larkana, Siwistan, Chhatar, and Derawar. The fort was re-occupied by Rawal Rai Singh in A.D. 1747 during the time of the second Nawab, Mubarak Khan twelve years later the promise of paying half the income of the tolls collected at Derawar. The city of Bahawalpur and Derawar Fort was taken by Timur Shah in A.D. 1788 and placed under Shah Muhammad Khan Badozai for a brief period, but both were regained by the fourth Nawab, Muhammad Bahawal Khan II. Derawar has remained under the rulers of Bahawalpur State since the last quarter of the 18th century A.D. A royal graveyard and the marble mosque stand conspicuously outside the fort. 

 

2. Mojgarh Fort (29° 0'48.98"N, 72° 8'21.51"E)

 

Mojgarh was founded by Muhammad Maruf Khan Kehrani in A.D. 1743, his square tomb decorated with glazed tiles and surmounted by a single dome stands about 400 yards south of the fort was completed by Maruf Khan's son Jan Muhammad Khan and his successor, Umar Khan in A.D 1757. Among several iron plaques reported on its main door, one of them recorded the name of Jan Muhammad Khan and Muhammad Maruf Khan with the construction date of the gate in Persian A.D. 1797 along with the name of the builder, Sri Ram, ironsmith, Mojgarh was visited by Elphinstone and Masson. 

At present, the fort is in ruins. The outer burnt brick facing has collapsed at numerous places and the material is being re-used by the local inhabitants. The fort is almost square in plan. measuring 325, 312, and 238 feet on the southern, western, and northern sides, respectively. 

 

c.      Marot Fort (29°10'37.11"N, 72°26'2.99"E)

 

Marot was once an important commercial center located on an ancient route between Multan and Delhi, which passed through Sirsa and Hansi during the Medieval period. The existing ruins of Marot reportedly occupy an ancient place which according to the traditions was founded by one of the rulers of Chittor during pre-Islamic times. It contained several religious shrines including a temple of the Jains.  

By twelfth-century A.D., Marot assumed strategic importance as well and emerged as a strong military outpost. Nasiruddin Qabacha, the local ruler of Uch was once stationed at Marot. Minhaj Uddin Siraj in A.D, 1250. During Akbar's time, a contingent of 200 horsemen and 1000 infantry was stationed at Marot.

Marot fort was changed hands several times before Nawab Mubarak Khan took it from the ruler of Jaisalmer towards the close of 18th century A.D. In 1842, Charles Masson during his journeys through Afghanistan and Punjab visited Marot, when it was still a commercial center. He noted mud walls and bastions of the fort besides other features of the town. 

 

d.     Jamgarh Fort (29°10'37.11"N, 72°26'2.99"E)

 

Jamgarh Fort, is 9 km away from Meergarh Fort. It was built in 1788 by Jam Khan Maroofani. It’s square, measuring 114 feet on each side. Its walls are 28 feet high and strengthened by circular bastions at the corners.

 

e.      Meergarh/ Mirgarh Fort (29°10'27.76"N, 72°37'16.31"E)

 

Mirgarh Fort has situated about 15 km from Fort Abbas in Bahawalnagar. Mirgarh Fort was founded by Noor Muhammad Khan, in l799 AD. The fort is made up of mud and has been constantly ignored by the concerned authorities. Its high walls are just waiting for a jolt to fall and disappear forever.

 

6. Phulra Fort (29°10'49.16"N, 72°51'40.17"E)

 

Phulra is an ancient fort and is said to have existed long before the domination of the Vikas, the founders of Bhikaner. In 1166 H. it was almost in ruins but was repaired and strengthened by Karam Khan Arbani (son of Qaim Khan, the founder of Qaimpur). The pakka bricks and the inner part is filled with mud. Near the western wall, inside the fort, is a pakka well, 118' deep and 4' in circumference, the water of which is sweet, a rare thing in the Cholistan. At each corner of the fort is a tower, with an inner chamber. The north-western tower is of burnt brick. In the south-eastern part of the fort is a three-storeyed house, whose upper forms a small bungalow. On the front of the bungalow are inscribed the words:- Malik-i mohall Muhammad Akram Khan Daudpotra dar Shar-i-Ramazan 1166 Hijri, "Muhammad Akram Khan Daudpotra master of the palace, in the month of Ramazan 1166 H. There are three wells outside the fort, well-built of stucco and containing sweet water.

Regarding Marot, Phulra, and Maujgarh "Masson says”: - "The portion of desert stretching eastward of Bahawalpur to Bikaner is of course but little productivity, yet, as in many parts of it the surface has more soil than sand, there are amongst other inhabited localities, the Bazar towns of Phulra, Marot, and Maujgarh which drive a considerable trade in grain with neighboring states. Phularah on the frontier of Bikaner has a good Bazar but is not perhaps very commercial. The fortress adjacent has been a superior building, for these parts but is now sadly in decay. There was once a good trench; the walls are very high, and the battlements are tastefully decorated. The Kiladar’s house soars above the ramparts and whole has an antique and picturesque appearance, particularly from the northern side, where the walls are washed by a large expanse of water in which is a small island studded with trees. There are three guns at Pularah.

Colonel Todd says "Phulra and Marot have still some importance the first is very ancient and enumerated amongst the 'Nakoti Marooka' in the earliest period of Pramara domination. I do not doubt that inscriptions in the ornamental vail-headed character belonging to the Jains will be found here, having obtained one from Lodorea in the desert which has been a ruin for nine centuries. Phulra was the residence of Lakha Phoolni, a name well-known to those versed in the old traditions of the desert. He was contemporary with Sid Rae of Auhulwara and Udyadit of Dhar.

g.     Nawan Kot Fort (28°20'44.61"N, 71°22'19.16"E)

 

Located away from the Hakra Riverbed in the desert, Nawan Kot still retains some of its original features. Built of mudbrick with four corner towers. it means 156 feet externally between the bastions. The walls are 10 feet thick and the parapet wall which is pierced with loopholes is one foot thick. The corner bastions are 45 feet in diameter, built around corbelled rooms. 

 

8. Bijnot/ Winjhrot Fort (28° 5'24.05"N, 71°40'54.73"E)

 

Bijnot or (Winjhrot) is structurally an impressive fort. It was originally built by Raja Winjha or Bija Bhattia in AD 757 but was reportedly demolished by Shahab ud din Muhammad Ghauri in 1167 AD. At the moment the fort is in ruin only original features have survived. It is located only 23 kilometers from the Pak-Indo border.

 

9. Khangarh Fort (28°22'5.74"N, 71°43'2.49"E)

The fort was built by Nawab Muhammad Khan II in A.D 1783, which is 36 miles southwest of Derawar fort. The purpose of its construction was that the merchandise of Khusran going to Hindustan adopts a new route that was safer than the Maujgorh fort route.

10. Rukanpur Fort (28°23'51.79"N, 72° 2'23.97"E)

It is a very less visited and photographed fort. It lies only 8 kilometers from the Indo-Pak border and 101 kilometers from Derawar fort deep inside the Cholistan desert. According to the archaeological department o Pakistan, this fort is in the Bahawalpur Nizamat and was built by Muhammad Maruf Khan Kehrani in 1190H. It is made of clay, which when burnt produces an inferior sort of lime. In 1198 H the Afghan caravans complained to Muhammad Bahawal Khan of being plundered by the officers of Umer Khan Marufani the office at the fort. The Nawab dispatched Khuda Bakhsh Khan, son of Nur Muhammad Khan, who had deserted Umer khan and sought refuge at Bahawalpur, with a body of soldiers to seize Rukanpur, which he succeeded in doing; and the fort thereafter remained part of Pirjani territory. It has four towers. The walls are in ruins, as the mosque stables and house, etc. Inside there was a Pakka well, now filled up.

 

11. Dingarh Fort OR TIRHARA, (28°56'34.05"N, 71°50'13.80")

This fort, now called Dingarh, lies in the Cholistan of Sádiqabad Tahsil and is said to have been built Bahadur Khan Halani in 1171 H. at the instance of Lalu, a Hindu of Jaisalmer, on the site of the Tirhára, place of considerable antiquity and a strategic point on the Jaisalmer border. Another story is that the fort was begun by one Brahim Khan, son of Muhammad Marúf Kehrání in 1170 H and completed by his nephew Khuda Bakhsh Khan (son of Nur Muhammad khan, son of Muhammad Narúf Khan

 

12. Machki Fort (28°20'20.47"N, 70°36'18.41"E)

Machki fort was built of burnt brick by one Lal khan, son of Ikhtiyar Khan Kehrani in A.D. 1777. It measures 125 feet between corner bastions, with 6 feet thick walls standing 18 feet high. The corner bastions are 42 feet in diameter and stand 40 feet high. Access to the fort is provided through the eastern wall which has the additionally engaged bastions 19.5 feet in diameter. the passage of the gateway is 8 feet wide, flanked by several rooms. The corner bastions are double-storeyed. 

 

13. Khairgarh Fort (28°27'42.50"N, 70°50'36.73"E)

Located twelve miles southeast of Bhutta Sheikhan in Bahawalpur District, the Khairgarh fort was built by one Ikhtiayar Khan in A.D. 1775 with mud and burnt bricks. 

 

14. Islamgarh Fort (27°51'18.22"N, 70°48'27.82"E)

The Islamgarh Fort is located deep in the Cholistan near the Indian border. The fort itself is an impressive building of brickwork. with high and sloping walls strengthened by bastions. Due to the availability of good drinkable water, permanent human settlement existed outside the fort until 1971. 

the fort was reportedly built by one Rawal Bhim Singh in A.D. 1608 and was called Bhimwar. The present name, Islamgarh, was given to the fort in A.D. 1766 after it was captured by Ikhtiar Khan Mundhani, a minor chief of Garhi Ikhtiyar Khan. 

 

FORTS, WHICH ARE NEAR TO EXTINCT.

 

 

1. Bhagla Fort (28°16'7.00"N, 70°30'35.34"E)

It is a mud-brick fort having a dimension of 128 x 192 feet. the fortification walls are 7 feet thick, and the corner bastions survive to a maximum height of 19 feet. The fort is totally in ruin, it was reportedly built in A.D. 1767 by Ali Murad Pirjani. 

 

 

 

1. Bara Fort (28°57'0.10"N, 71°38'1.17"E)

It was a square mud fort now totally vanish from the scenes. A few years back a bastion left but

it is also destroyed with time. 

 

 

 

2. Murid/Muridwala Fort (28°23'14.21"N, 70°45'52.95"E)

 

It is a square fort of burnt brick, 87 feet internally with four bastions at the corners, every 18 feet in diameter. the walls were 7 feet thick and stand 8 feet high. A 13 feet wide entrance is provided on the southern side. the fort was built by one Haji Khan, son of Ikhtiyar Khan, in A.D. 1777 and was reportedly destroyed by floods in 1805.

 

3. Ahmadpur Lamma Fort (28°19'15.13"N, 70° 3'6.45"E)

Ahmadpur Lamma lies 4 miles northwest of Sádiqabad station on the North-Western Railway and about 15 miles of the Indus. The town was once protected by walls which are now in ruins. 

 

4. Mao Mubarak Fort (28°31'52.11"N, 70°21'44.39"E)

 

5. Mubarak Fort (29°15'42.11"N, 71°21'26.23"E)

In 1174 H, Nawab Mubarak Khan built, in the vicinity of Shahr Farid a fort, which be named Mubarakpur. Its walls are of mud at the main entrance towards the north, is a bungalow and other Kaccha buildings. 

6. Unnamed Fort (28°14'48.15"N, 70°22'10.53"E)

 

FORTS WHICH ROUGH LOCATION IS KNOWN, BUT THE CURRENT CONDITION IS UNKNOWN.

 

 

a.      Fatehgarh or Gaurdiana Fort

In 1213 H Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan II, built this fort with a pakka exterior, on the site of Gaurjana or Gaurdiana, 15 miles northwest of Amruka railway station and 150 miles north-east of Bahawalpur and named it Fatehgarh after his father Fateh khan. The well inside the fort is now filled up. Outside the fort are two pakka wells and a kaccha tank, of which the latter is used as a reservoir for rainwater. Before the agency time, it was garrisoned with batteries and placed in charge of the Arbani Daudportars, which descendants still live in the village close to the now-ruined fort. 

b.     Sahibgarh Fort

 

The fort was built by Fazal Ali Khan Halani, the founder of Naushara (Rahimyar Khan) in 1191 H. The exterior of the four walls and other buildings, inside the fort, is pakka, and the interior kaccha. It was destroyed by Nawab Muhammad Bahawal Khan II in 1220 H and the walls are in dilapidated condition. It is 78 miles southwest of Bahawalpur.

 

c.      Ghauspur Fort

 

It is believed to have been founded by Lal Khan, ancestor of the Ghaleja tribe of Ghauspur, and named after the Sain Ghaus Bahauddin Zakariya of Multan.

 

d.     Qaimpur Fort

 

Qaimpur town in AD 1752. The fort shows a square plan with bastions at the corners, among which those on the northern side are octagonal. In the northeastern corner stand the remains of a three-storied palace with the fallen rooms but still retaining something of original woodwork. 

 

e.      Tajgarh Fort

 

Tajgarh is situated about four miles to the northwest of Rahim yar khan railway station on a high mound. Its name was "Hurar" in the 10th century A.D. when it was built by rani Huran, daughter of a Jaisalmer chief. Huran was converted to Islam by a saint called Sayyed Ahmed Billauri. It remained a fortified palace for a long time under the Sumra kings of Sindh and the Bhatia chiefs of Jaisalmer, but towards the close of the 18th century, it was a desolate mound on this site.

f.       Liyara or Liara Fort

 

Liara fort was built in A.D. 1780; by Sabzal Khan and was reportedly destroyed by floods in AD 1804.

 

 

g.     Kotsabzal Fort

 

Kot Sabzal is a small town, built on a mound about 20 feet high. The town was built by Sabzal Khan, son of Mundhu Khan Kehrani, in 1756, with a rampart of mud bricks. In 1806 Nawab Bahawal Khan II conquered Kot Sabazal and annexed it. 

 

 

h.     Kandera Fort

 

This fort was built with a pakka exterior on a ruined mound called the Kandera in 1178 H. by Fazal Khan son of Bhakkar Khan Pirjani and is 125 miles southwest of Bahawalpur. The fort has a gateway and four towers. In 1220H, it was demolished by Nawab Muhammad Bahwal Khan II, and now only a ruined tower remains. The Cholistani people, especially the Mahrs, bring their cattle here in the rains. 

 

i.       Fazilpur Fort (28°16'39.5"N, 69°57'57.2"E)

j.       Jajjal Fort

 

Close to Jajjal village, which is about eight miles from Hasil Serhu is a large mound called, "Tibba Jajjal." It is believed that it was once a flourishing town and fort that below it ran the Sutlej, which now flows more than ten miles to the north. The town was built by Rajak Jajja. Bhutta entirely of pakka masonry, a fact borne out by the large bricks found on digging below the surface of the mound. 

 

11. Kot Samaba Fort (28°33'16.11"N, 70°28'5.88"E)

 

Kot Samaba was built by Samaba Khan Pirjani, son of Ali Murad Khan, in 1754 A.D. The town had originally a fortified wall which is now in ruins. It is situated about a mile from the Railway station of the same name. 

 

l.       Nausshahra or Rahimyar Khan  

 

Naushahra lies on a mound, about 400 yards south of the Rahimyaar khan Railway station. Naushahra was built in 1751 by Fazal Ali Khan Halani on the ruins of ancient Phul Wadda, the capital of Phul, and his son Lakha during the Sumra supremacy in Sindh. 

 

13. Sardargarh Fort (28°42'34.39"N, 70°26'13.19"E)

 

Nawab Mubarak Khan took the land of Wallhar on lease from the Raja of Bikaner in 1177 H. He soon began to construct a fort on the ruins of Wallhar fort, but Raja Gaj Singh of Bikaner alarmed at the proposed fortifications send a force under Diwan Mul Chand Brahila to recover the area from the Nawab. 

 

14. Walhar Fort (28°42'34.39"N, 70°26'13.19"E)

o.     Bahawalgarh

Bahawalgarh now a village of about 150 houses, is built within the walls of the old fort of that name, erected by Nawab Bahwal Khan, II in 1791 on the site of a village called the Musafiranwala. A strong garrison was placed in it to overseas the Bikaneris and the turbulent Joya and Watta subjects, who were always in revolt. 

 

p.     Gari Ikhtiyar Khan

 

Gari Ikhriyar Khan lies about 6 miles west of Khanpur, originally founded by Shadi Khan an official of Khuda Yar Khan Kalhora, during the supremacy of the Kalhoras in Sindh, it was named Gari Shadi Khan, but after the death of the Nur Muhammad Kalhora the Kalhora power declined and in 1753 Haji Ikhtiyar khan Mundhani of Gundi by a sudden attack on the town took control from the Kalhora officials. fortified it and changed its name to Gari Ikhtiyar Khan. 

 

 Q.     Dhuin Fort and Mound 

Dhin was a ruined mound, on which in 1186H. Aqil Khan son of Kabir Khan Achrani, built a Kachcha fort, now in ruins. It is 56 miles southwest of Bahawalpur and 32 miles of Derawar. In the rainy season cattle-breeders camp there. Their water is better. 

 R.     Moonday Shaheed Fort

Munde Shahid is a ruined fort of great antiquity neaqrAhmadpur East and contains a Nau Gaja tomb. According to General Cunningham these nawagaja tombs are remains of recumbent statues of Nirwana, and as Buddha was believed to have died with his face to the east all the Nirwana statues are placed from north to south; and since Muhammadan tombs are placed in the same direction, the early Muhammadans used them as ready-made graves for their leaders who fell in battle. Munde Shahid the resting place of one of the Arab leaders as per Colonel Minchin. There are several Nau Gaja tombs scattered along the edge of the sandhills which may be regarded as one of the proofs that Buddhism was the prevailing religion in upper Sindh at the time of the Arab conquest. 

 S.     Falji Fort

Situated at a distance of three miles north of Manthar are the remains of a fort recorded as Falji on the topographical maps. The fort is rectangular in plan, measuring 240 feet from north to south and 160 East to west without corner bastions. It is built of mud-brick with a burnt-brick exterior. The northeastern bastion survives to a height of 16 feet above the surrounding fields. The fort is in such a state of ruin that no other information was possible to collect. It is now reduced to a mound. The burnt-brick size is 9 x6x1.6 inches.

 T.     Sarwahi Fort