It was
the beginning of the year 2013 when I conducted a photo walk to visit various
historical places in the walled city of Lahore with my friends. These havelis
are part of a cluster of havelis known as Chuna Mandi Havelis, a significant
group of historic buildings in the Walled City. It currently houses the
Government Fatima Jinnah College for Women. Unfortunately at that time, we
could not get permission to visit and have to leave the place through the main
doorway; At that time, we have a little glimpse of the inside of Haveli from
the entrance, which shows magnificent architecture ahead. The photo walk
finished but the desire to visit this place ignited badly inside. I wanted to
visit this place, I used all my personal contacts, also wrote a letter to
Principle of this college for granting permission for visit; requested a Walled
city director, and also asked many senior architecture lovers but all efforts
were in vain. Three years passed, and one day I discussed the same with my good
friend Maria Waseem, a historian researcher. After an effort of two months, we finally got permission, Special thanks to her and his husband in this regard.
The
College building, with its spacious courtyard and Sikh imagery, is sometimes
thought to be the famous haveli or Palace of Raja Dhian Singh, the young Rajput
chamberlain of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but is more likely to be the Palace of
Jamadar Khushal Singh (d. 1844). Khushal Singh was a humble doorkeeper who
later rose to the exalted position of Lord Chamberlain of Ranjit Singh. Khushal
Singh may well have built upon earlier Mughal remains. The large expanse of the
compound and the existence of a garden, along with some other pre-Sikh remains,
indicate the existence of a large Mughal mansion. This could be the palace of
Asaf Khan, brother of Empress Noor Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan. Asaf
Khan was an arbiter of taste, and historical sources credit him with building a
luxurious palace in Lahore which had cost an exorbitant 20 lakhs at the time. Another
haveli in the group, located in the north, also sports a courtyard. It was
built by Teja Singh, nephew of Jamadar Khushal Singh. The third extant
structure, located on the east of the cluster is considerably smaller in size.
Not
long after British annexation, the haveli was fitted up as the first place of
public worship for the Christian garrison stationed in the fort and continued
to be utilized as such until the tomb of Anarkali began to be employed for
divine service in 1851. At this time the palace served as Government District
School. Later, as is well known. Government College made its beginning in this
building when classes were begun by the first principal of the College, Dr. G.
Leitner on January 1, 1864. It was in 1877 when the new college campus was
constructed that the haveli was vacated and fell into desolation until its
recent restoration.
Seeing
the magnificent haveli, one can well believe that its owner must have spent a
pretty penny on it. From its sprawling courtyards to its royal baths and from
its arched hallways to its zenana gardens, the building is breathtakingly
beautiful. But, perhaps what is far more important is that the haveli is as
alive today as it was in its days of glory. Instead of being kept under lock
and key, it is being utilized as a college and every corner has been put to
constructive use.
In
fact, the college has put its premises to such fascinating use that it is not
surprising to find students sitting in a math class that is bang next to a
royal bath, or climbing up a dark turret that would lead them to their
department. Jharokas and arched niches in the wall make for cozy and
picturesque sitting arrangements where girls either partake of a snack or
browse over their books. The school canteen, rather than being tucked away in
some obscure corner is located right under the main entrance of the mansion,
while the computer classroom and lecture hall are in the basement.
What’s
more, the rooftops allow a quaint vista of the old city so that you can spot
the Lahore Fort, Badshahi Mosque and even the Minar-e-Pakistan if you climb
right to the top. It is no wonder that the haveli is fast gaining popularity as
an ideal venue for Basant celebrations.
But,
what is most heartening to know is that the heritage site is being properly
looked after. Conservation work on the haveli was carried out by the Lahore
Development Authority before it was converted into a college.
One
does wish though that it could be made accessible to more people, for by and
large it is bypassed by tourists visiting Lahore.
