The Last left Hindu Temple of Kunjah and history of the town

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research)

Once a humble village in the Gujrat district, Kunjah has transformed into a vibrant modern town. An old Hindu temple stands tall among the new developments and bustling streets, bearing witness to a golden past. This dilapidated structure, dating back to the early 20th century, showcases a vertical spire rising from the sanctum, overlooking what was once a prayer hall but now serves as a residential area. Unfortunately, the fate of this temple mirrors that of many other Hindu temples in Punjab, Pakistan. Adjacent to it, a parking stand now occupies the space once a serene pond, an integral part of this sacred temple.

Before the fateful partition of 1947, Kunjah boasted a diverse community, harmoniously coexisting with followers of different religions. Remnants of several elegant pre-partition Hindu buildings can still be found within the city, albeit most of them are now inhabited by migrant families who settled here after the partition. These architectural marvels are a testament to a rich cultural heritage and a reminder of the vibrant past that Kunjah once embraced.

The traces of human settlements in Kunjah can be traced back to the 4th century BC, offering a glimpse into the town's ancient origins. Some historians speculate that the place derived its name from Raja Kanjpal, while others attribute its significance to Ibrahim of Ghazna (1033 to 1099 AD), also known as Ibrahim Bin Masood, who utilized Kunjah as a base for his campaigns in Hindustan. Throughout medieval times, Kunjah remained strategically important, and during the Mughal period, King Alamgir graced the town with his presence. A mosque, named after him, once adorned the area, symbolizing its historical and religious significance.

In its prime, Kunjah was a fortified city, protected by robust walls that served as a defense against invading forces. Not too long ago, remnants of various monuments from the Sikh period could still be found, offering glimpses into the town's illustrious past. These included temples, samadhis, gardens, two palaces, a fort, a grand pool, a gurudwara later converted to a Mazaar, and a shamshan ghat (cremation ground). Regrettably, the passage of time has eroded these historical edifices, leaving only a handful of sites that continue to stand today. The aforementioned Hindu temple, with its weathered grandeur, serves as a poignant reminder of the town's history, while the Baradari from the Sikh era still echoes tales of its former glory.

As Kunjah evolves into a modern town, it is crucial to recognize the significance of its historical heritage. Preserving and safeguarding these remaining historical sites is essential to honor the town's diverse cultural past and to offer future generations a glimpse into their roots. By embracing and cherishing its rich history, Kunjah can pave the way for a harmonious future where the old and the new coexist, bridging the gap between eras and celebrating the town's remarkable journey through time.

Pond

The Deepest Stepwell (Baoli) of Pakistan located at Rohtas Fort

 May 5, 2013

There are three Stepwells present at the site of Rohtas Fort. The deepest one has more than 148 steps to reach up to the water table of the well. The stairs are so wide that even war elephants and horses could drink water. The staircase is provided with arch beams at various intervals for support and bracing of side walls. The well is dried up for many years and is protected as a historical monument,

It is pertinent to mention here that the subject structure is the deepest stepwell in Pakistan. 

My visit to Manthal Buddha Rock Skardu (2003)

June 2003

 

During student days, we decided to do a little hike to Manthal Buddha Rock on the foot from Skardu city. When we reached to Rock site heavy rain started, and we did not have any rain cover at that time, In this picture, we were sitting behind the buddha rock under a tree waiting for a stoppage of rain. 

Centuries have passed, yet the watchful gaze of Buddha endures over the tranquil town of Skardu in Gilgit-Baltistan (G-B). Carved in stone, the sage continues to emanate wisdom to those who seek it, although sadly, there are few who do.

Perched on the edge of Manthal village, adjacent to a stream from Satpara Lake, the pale and smooth granite, known as the Buddha Rock, is a relic believed to have been carved between the 8th and 10th centuries. It represents a glorious bygone era when individuals sought enlightenment in the footsteps of the "One Who Woke Up."

The rock bears witness to a vanished tradition and holds significance beyond borders. However, it languishes on the outskirts of Manthal village, neglected and forgotten by the world.

According to Pakistani folklore, the rock remained unknown until British traveler Jane E. Duncan documented it in the early 1900s. Duncan's encounter with the rock brought it to the attention of German scholar August Hermann Francke, who deciphered the Tibetan inscription on the rock and published it, unveiling its magnificence to the world.

Nevertheless, evidence suggests that the rock and its Tibetan inscriptions were noticed earlier. GT Vigne, a British explorer, reproduced the carvings and inscriptions in 1836 and 1838, while AGA Durand published a photograph of the entire rock in 1899.

The ancient relief on the rock depicts Siddhārtha Gautama, the present-time Buddha, at its center. Surrounding him are twenty smaller Buddhas representing the past, with future Buddhas, known as Maitreya, standing on both sides. The carving, known as the "Council of all Buddhas," holds deep significance in the Buddhist tradition and lends its name to the village.

The Tibetan script, although incomplete in places, instructs followers of Gautama to preserve and care for the sculpture. It emphasizes the faithful ones' responsibility to maintain the brightness of the sculptures and keep the offering place clean to prevent decay. Only one part of the script remains visible today, but when Duncan examined the rock, the entire script—with a few missing characters—was intact.

The purpose of the square hole above the Buddha's head, as described by Duncan, remains a subject of debate. Some believe it was used to hold a light, while others suggest it once supported a beam and roof to protect the carving. The square recess and cuts on the edges indicate the presence of a canopy that shielded the paintings on the rock face.

Preservation of the site is essential to safeguard its history. Many believe that the location played a vital role in the spread of Buddhism and attracted pilgrims from distant places. However, concrete evidence regarding its exact use remains elusive.

Despite its historical and cultural significance, the Buddha Rock has not been recognized as a UNESCO heritage site, nor has it been included in Pakistan's Tentative List. Organizations like the Baltistan Culture and Development Foundation (BCDF) have initiated efforts to protect and promote the site. BCDF has constructed a boundary wall around the rock, deployed a security guard, and collaborated with the government's tourism department to build a nearby tourist hut.

While the true story behind the rock may never be fully revealed, its unique composition and depiction of all Buddhas make it an invaluable piece of art. As part of a larger group of Buddhist relics in the region, the rock carving in Skardu stands out for its high-quality craftsmanship and emphasis on the cosmic nature of Buddha.

Baltistan's Buddhist heritage gradually faded over time, replaced by the advent of Islam. The religion's preachers called for the abandonment of the past, resulting in the deterioration and destruction of religious sites and monuments. Today, only a handful

 of artifacts, including the Buddha Rock, remain as enigmatic remnants of "Little Tibet's" ancient legacy.

DAK CHOWKI (MAIL STATION) WAZIRABAD

 32°26'34.91"N 74° 6'39.82"E

Relevance: SHER SHAH SURI

Date of Visit:- 02 JULY 2017 & 2023

(All pictures are owned, kindly respect copyrights)

Wazirabad is located on the banks of river Chenab and is nearly thirty kilometers from the District Capital Gurjanawala. 

A historical 16 th Century edifice stands in a decrepit state on the route of the old Grand Trunk road in this city. It is believed that this building was constructed in 1560 in the Sher Shah Suri era and was used as a mail station (Dakh Chowki) in his reign. 

This edifice is rectangular and constructed on a brick platform of 70 x 70 feet, which was raised nearly 03 feet above the natural ground surface. It has rough dimensions of 40 x 40 feet. On all four walls, pointed arch openings are present. The structure has squinches on all four corners to raise a circular dome. However, the dome is not present now, and it might be fallen in past. The thickness of the walls is nearly 04 feet and it is constructed of small bricks. On the external facade, cut brickwork is used. There are four small minarets also present on each corner that seems to be reconstructed. All plasterwork is disappeared; at some points on the inner side of the pointed arch sign of fresco work still can be seen. 

 

Pictures from 2023 During Restoration:-

Historical Mosque Muhammad Bin Qasim (2020)

(All pictures are taken by author) 

Date of Visit 22-02-2020

The First Mosque in Sub-Continent

At the beginning of 8th century, the boundaries of the Muslim empire had expanded in all directions and soon reached the very limit of Sindhu valley. Then, due to some unpleasant happenings, the Arab Viceroy of eastern regions was prompted to launch a military expedition against the ruler of lower Sindhu valley named Raja Dahir, in 711 A.D. As a result, a young Arab general named Muhammad bin Qasim, a nephew of Hajjaj bin Yousaf, was dispatched to measure sword with Raja Dahir.

First, Muhammad Bin Qasim besieged the coastal city of Daybal which fell to Arab army. The occupation of Daybal was followed by other important towns of Dahir's kingdom such as Drawar, Alor, Nerun and Multan which, after a hard resistance, were captured by Muhammad bin Qasim. With the conquest of Dahir's kingdom, the boundaries of Muslim empire on the southern borders extended to the lower valley of river Sindh. It was a general practice among Muslim invaders, that wherever they went, marked out a place for offering prayer. Muslim invaders of Sindh also followed this practice and built mosques.

Muhammad bin Qasim defeated Raja Dahir on 10^th of Ramadan 711 AD. On 11th of Muharram, after appointing governors in all principal districts of Sindh, he left Brahamanabad and marched Towards Alore (Modern day Arore) where Fofi, son of Raja Dahir, had fortified his position. Muhammad Bin Qasim called his forces to a halt opposite the fort. This is where he built a mosque, known as Muhammad Bin Qasim Mosque. The ruins of the mosque still stand on top of a hill in Arore.

The remnants of the mosque built on a mound. Sadly, only few arches have survived but to our surprise, there were few praying mats and a speaker installed at the top, indicating that the mosque is very much active. The mosque is in Arore city, opposite Govt. Elementary Campus School Arore, Taluka Rohri District Sukkur. It is attributed to Muhammad Bin Qasim perhaps built in the 8th century A.D.

At present only two walls are remaining of the structure, the total area measures about 45’-0” x 78’-0” feet (3510 sft). The mosque consists of two entrances, decorated with Tudor arches and Tudor arched rectangular panels are designed symmetrically on the left and right side of the open arch. Tudor arched ventilators are also constructed on above of opening arch. Newly constructed area for prayers is made with cemented material. There is only one window on the western side wall and decorated with bricks jali. The limestone blocks were found in large quantity in various parts of the site where the cultural material was seen embedded in the section of a burrow. Mosque is almost 95% destroyed.

My Visit to Hari Mandir, Hazro (2018)

My Visit to Hari Mandir, Hazro

—All photos and text by the author

Date of Visit: -      29-03-2018

Hazro is a town located in the north-west of Pakistan in the Attock District of the Punjab province Pakistan. According to the Gazetteer of Rawalpindi, Hazro was the scene of the great battle in which, in AD 1008, Sultan Mahmud Ghaznawi defeated the united forces of the Rajas of Hindustan and the Hindus of Punjab with a slaughter of 20,000 men, it was afterward fixed upon by some of the Pathan followers of that chieftain to be the site of the colony

The population according to the 1901 census of India was 9,799. According to the Gazetteer of Rawalpindi, Hazro had a significant Hindu population which was "half Pathan, half Hindu".

Long ago, I have seen a picture of this town. A large complex of Hindu Temple, with amazing Jharoka’s, wooden balconies, and paintings at the facade.  That made me travel from Lahore to visit this magnificent architecture. The temple is named 'Hari Mandir’ and located in the middle of town. After all this travel, when I reached this place, I came to know that this Hindu temple is occupied by an Afghan refuge family and they were very much reluctant to show this building.

In fact, they did not open the door and asked me from the inside to run away.  I was standing in despair when I told by local boys that the first floor of this temple has been occupied by some other family. I found that family very welcoming and they allowed me to visit their portion of the building. Narrow damage stairs took me to sikhara (tower of the temple). On the lower part of Sikhara, few lines in Hindi script have been carved on the surface. Thanks to my friend Rohit Bhat from Mumbai, India, who has translated these for me:-

OM

Shree Ganeshay Namah

Shrimaan Bhagat

Vishandas Swargwasi ji ki Mitrawari

Shrimaan Swami

Dayanand Saraswati

Babu Ramdasji mandir banwaya.

Mahina Falgun (Feb- March basically Holi)

The last lines are blurred

That temple is constructed for Hindu deity Vishnu. Most of the rooms of that portion were locked and their keys are with the owner.

I again came outside the complex and started taking photographs of elevations. Then, I saw another inscription present above the main entrance:-

The temple was built in memory of Bhagat Bishandas Vekanth by Swami Diyanand of the Sarswati Sabhapati Harri Mandir committee of Hazro in vikram sambat (Indian calendar) 1989 that is, circa 1928 A.D.

So, it means that this temple is constructed nineteen years before the partition of British India.

The mandir is connected with an adjacent building with a bridge and might be served as the living quarters for the pilgrims at that time.

The photograph of the front facade and floral painting which I have seen some years back is sadly disappeared now.

My task of visiting the ground floor of this complex was still left and I was standing in chaos what to do next? I have no energy left to knock the door again and to request the Afghan family to permit me to visit this place. I was about to leave, then suddenly somebody called me from behind, it was an old Pathan lady from a neighboring house. She already came to know from street children that a guy comes from a Lahore and leaving the place because of not getting the permission. But she still inquired me my purpose of visit and asks me to wait outside. She went inside the Afghan family living portion and came after five minutes and asks me, "Son, I took the permission but took photos as earliest as u can."

Earlier, I read an article by prominent writer Zulfiqar Ali Kalharo about this place that there were floral paintings in every room of this temple, but the current owner whitewashed them. Unfortunately, Zulifqar not able to take any picture of inside of this building

I hastily went inside the Afghan living portion of the building, found a rectangular roof supported by two-story motifs-column and arch frame. That roof luckily still has floral patterns and landscape paintings on its surface.

I thank the old Pathan lady and left the place.

It is very sad to see the current depilated state of this amazing historical and religious architecture. Old edifices like these are representations of the true heritage of any place. But the concerned department's negligence brought it to total vandalism.