Sher Shah Suri Mosque at Wazirabad

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

In close proximity to the Sher Shah Suri era Stepwell at Daunkal, Wazirabad lies a mosque that stands as a testament to the same historical period. Less than half a kilometer away, these two remarkable structures give a glimpse into the architectural marvels of the past.

Saifur Rehman Dar, a distinguished archaeologist from Pakistan, has made significant contributions to the field of archaeology, particularly in Pakistan. In his comprehensive survey conducted from 1987 to 1989 along the Grand Trunk Road, Dar meticulously documented the remaining historical relics. It was during this survey that the historical significance of the mosque was discovered, subsequently detailed in Dar's renowned report, "Caravanserais along the Grand Trunk in Pakistan."

The presence of these two historical edifices in such close proximity hinted at the possibility of a Caravanserai, an inn for travelers, having existed in the area in the past. The Grand Trunk Road, with its rich historical heritage, stretches from the town of Gakkhar Cheema in Gujranwala towards Dhaunkal. In the past, there was a Kacchi Serai in Gujranwala, but the passage of time has completely erased its existence.

The present mosque, although modest in size, exudes its historical charm. The covered prayer hall measures a mere 23 ft x 40 ft, adorned with three arched gateways at the front and a single dome atop. In the past, remnants of frescoes adorned the interior ceiling, a sight captured in pictures shared by a friend. Unfortunately, due to current circumstances, visitors are not permitted to explore the historical mosque's interior, as access has been restricted by the caretaker. Recent clashes between different religious sects in the area have further complicated matters concerning the control of the mosque.

Situated in front of a courtyard, another towering arched gateway greets visitors. The mosque is constructed on an elevated platform, beneath which a basement lies. This unique architectural feature suggests that the basement may have served as a Serai, providing shelter for traveller’s at night or acting as living quarters for students who came to study Quranic verses.

The mosque and Serai of Daunkal stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their historical significance illuminating the rich cultural heritage of Pakistan. These architectural marvels not only showcase the grandeur of the past but also serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving our historical treasures. By safeguarding these remnants, we honor the collective memory of our ancestors and provide future generations with the opportunity to appreciate and learn from the splendor of the past.

 

Serai Chhimba (2021)

05th  December 2021

(All images copyright 2021 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Centuries ago, the Grand Trunk Road came into existence, its exact origins lost to time. It can be traced back to the migrations of early human civilizations, including the renowned archaeological discovery known as the 'Cemetery H Culture.' This civilization stretched from Harappa in present-day Pakistan to the Ganga-Yamuna Basin in India, encompassing the entire East-West Punjab region around 1700 BCE. This region served as the nucleus of the Vedic Civilization and was centered around trade. Common paths were established to connect various settlements, which continue to be used to this day.

During the flourishing Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BC, a road was constructed from Patiliputra (now Patna) to the renowned center of learning, Taxila. This road extended further to Balkh in Khurasan, now part of Afghanistan. Travelers who had to cross the Khyber Pass and enter the Indian subcontinent used this route. It was also utilized by historical figures such as Ghori and Ghazni. Over time, the road expanded to the eastern end of the empire, now deep within Bangladesh. Historical accounts mention that Samrat Chandragupta Maurya devoted considerable manpower to maintain this road, referred to in ancient texts as the "Uttar path" or the Northern Road.

The earliest references to Sarai, which served as rest houses along major routes, date back to the reign of Muhammad Bin Tughlaq (1324-1351). He ordered the construction of Sarais at regular intervals between Delhi and his new capital, Daulatabad.

Emperor Akbar also paid great attention to the construction and maintenance of Sarais, Baolis (stepwells), and roads. His architect and engineer, Qasim Khan, suggested establishing Sarais throughout the empire to provide travelers with places of repose. Akbar issued orders to construct poorhouses (Sarais) in various quarters of the capital, handing them over to benevolent individuals to provide homes for the poor and needy from around the world. He dispatched advance parties to improve roads and construct bridges over rivers. On his journey to Kashmir, Akbar sent Qasim Khan along with thousands of skilled workers to level the road and ensure its smooth passage. During his return, Akbar made a stop near the Nain Sukh River, and Qasim Khan was sent ahead to oversee the bridging of the Indus River. For the convenience of travelers, Akbar ordered the construction of minars adorned with deer horns along the way from Agra to Ajmer, serving as markers for lost travelers.

Serai Chamba, or Serai Chhimba, was one of the Sarais built during the reign of the third Mughal Emperor, Akbar. Situated approximately 40 kilometers from Lahore on Multan Road, it had once captivated my interest after reading an article by renowned historian Salman Rasheed. The article featured an image of elegant domes from Serai Chamba, sparking my desire to visit the site.

Last year, in December, I finally made my visit, only to find that the elegant domes had long been destroyed by residents to make way for room construction. However, remnants of two entrance gateways still stand, albeit in a state of deterioration. These Sarais were fortified to protect travelers from robbers, but over time, locals pilfered bricks from the walls to use in their own constructions. Only fragments of the outer walls remain in a few places, offering glimpses into the past.

According to Salman Rasheed, Serai Chhimba was constructed like a fortress, boasting massive walls and two gateways—one facing the rising sun and the other facing the setting sun. Along the interior perimeter walls, sunken rooms with domed ceilings and thick walls provided shelter for weary travelers, while their pack and riding animals were secured within the broad enceinte.

The gatehouses on both sides are imposing, featuring bulky arched openings that display distinct Akbari style. The western gatehouse has been converted into a residence, while the eastern one serves as the only entry and exit point. The timber leaves of the gatehouse were once in place but have since vanished due to the rise in street level. Local rumors suggest that the valuable teak was appropriated and sold by the keeper of a counterfeit shrine within the Sarai. This highlights the irony of those who claim descent from a worldly man turned holy posthumously through the accumulation of myths.

To emphasize its defensive strength, each corner of the Serai was adorned with an octagonal turret. However, only one such turret remains today.

Despite its fascinating historical background, Sarai Chamba has long been forgotten and left unprotected by the concerned archaeological departments. Efforts to preserve and showcase this site of cultural significance have been neglected.

  (Picture Source Salman Rasheed sb)