Rediscovering the Sheesh Mahal: A Forgotten Gem of Wazirabad

 23^rd  April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Sheesh Mahal was a renowned palace that graced the city of Wazirabad once, which exudes a captivating history and unparalleled architectural allure. While the present-day Wazirabad may only harbor a locality bearing a reminiscent name, the scant remnants of this majestic palace provide a tantalizing glimpse into its glorious bygone era. Its construction began during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir but remained incomplete for unknown reasons. It was not until centuries later, during the rule of Sikh Emperor Ranjeet Singh in Punjab, that the palace's construction recommenced under the supervision of Dewan Hikmat Ray.

Sheesh Mahal stood atop a ten-foot-high platform, elevating it from the ground level of the city. The palace showcased intricate carvings on tall wooden elements, while its doors were adorned with exquisite designs and patterns. It radiated an aura of grandeur and opulence, with its mesmerizing mirrorwork and mosaic art. Mirrors, glass, and reflective surfaces were intricately incorporated into the walls, ceilings, pillars, and even portions of the floors. Geometric patterns, floral motifs, and meticulous detailing adorned the palace, making it a sight to behold.

The mirrored ceilings of Sheesh Mahal were particularly enchanting. Countless mirrors were meticulously arranged to create a sparkling effect. When sunlight or candle flames reflected off the mirrors, it transformed the ceilings into a mesmerizing spectacle, resembling a starry night sky. The walls of the palace also boasted mirrors and glass, intricately carved and fitted with mirror pieces of various shapes and sizes. These reflective surfaces multiplied the light, creating an illusion of spaciousness. The strategic placement of windows and openings ensured the capture and direction of sunlight, amplifying the reflection and sparkle of the mirrors.

Inside the palace, remnants of fresco work can still be observed. The technique of fresco painting, involving the application of pigments directly onto wet plaster, once adorned the walls, adding to the artistic richness of Sheesh Mahal. The Bardari structure within the palace featured a central water hose with fountains at each corner. The flooring was meticulously designed using different colors of small tiles. The palace boasted fortified walls, entrance gates, and surrounding fruit gardens.

Notable historical figures, such as William Moorcroft, an English veterinarian and explorer employed by the East India Company, have mentioned Sheesh Mahal in their writings. The palace has witnessed the reigns of Charat Singh, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and Dewan Hikmat Roy, each leaving their mark on its history. Tragically, Dewan Hikmat Roy was assassinated on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, leaving the palace abandoned for a period of time.

The construction of Sheesh Mahal involved numerous artisans and craftsmen brought from various parts of the country. They established residential camps during the construction period and later settled permanently in the area now known as "Gali Sheeshawali" in Wazirabad. Interestingly, a unique feature of the palace was the presence of a rainwater collection tank on the rooftop known as "Asmani Khooh," a structure rarely seen elsewhere. 

Surrounding Sheesh Mahal, there were additional features such as a cremation ground and a Hindu temple to the north, and a Gurudwara to the south. A tributary of the Chenab River, called Pulkhu, flowed to the north. A nearby brick kiln near the Pir Mitha graveyard was responsible for supplying the small bricks used in the palace's construction. The palace also boasted a variety of fruit trees in its gardens, and nearby servant quarters and guest rooms were constructed to accommodate residents and visitors.

Over time, the remnants of Sheesh Mahal faded away, and despite its significance, little has been done to restore this remarkable piece of history. Today, only an arched gateway remains, surrounded by newly constructed houses populated by migrant families since 1947. Nevertheless, the legacy of Sheesh Mahal lives on through the stories of its notable inhabitants, such as Dewan Reepa Ram of Jammu Kashmir and the visit of Ahmad Shah Abdali during his invasion of India.

Sheesh Mahal, with its basement, tunnel network, vine storages, and rich history, holds countless untold tales. It has been witness to extravagant events, including the lavish wedding of the son of Mahtir Col. Ahmad Hassan, the Grand Wazir of Chitral. While the physical structure may have faded, the memory of Sheesh Mahal continues to captivate those who delve into its intriguing past.

 

Gurudwara Guru Kotha, Wazirabad

23^rd  April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Guru Kotha, also known as Gurdwara Kotha Sahib Cheveen Patshahi, is a sacred place located in the town of Wazirabad in Gujranwala district, Pakistan. It is named after the sixth Sikh Guru, Guru Hargobind Ji, who stayed at the house of his devotee Bhai Khem Chand Ji on his way back from Kashmir. Later, a Gurdwara Sahib was built at this location. However, the building has now fallen into disrepair and is occupied by refugees. The Gurdwara is endowed with 13 acres of agricultural land, and a large water tank adds to its scenic beauty.

The architecture of the Gurdwara is unique, with three storeys on a high plinth, each with a different design. The ground floor has only one entrance and no windows, while the first floor has three windows on the facade, with the central one being three times wider than the others. The room also has windows on the side walls and a dented cornice. The second floor consists of three domed rooms, with the central one being larger and sitting on a tower-like base.

Before the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, Basant Panchami and Diwali were celebrated at Guru Kotha. However, now a mini-Vaisakhi fair is arranged by the Muslim community of the town.

Unfortunately, the Gurdwara is currently facing an assault from illegal construction taking place next to it, which is spoiling its architectural beauty and hurting Sikh sentiments worldwide. Sikhs have previously appealed to the Pakistani government for better upkeep of their historical places, and it is hoped that they will intervene in this matter to protect the sanctity of this important religious site.

Sher Shah Suri Mosque at Wazirabad

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

In close proximity to the Sher Shah Suri era Stepwell at Daunkal, Wazirabad lies a mosque that stands as a testament to the same historical period. Less than half a kilometer away, these two remarkable structures give a glimpse into the architectural marvels of the past.

Saifur Rehman Dar, a distinguished archaeologist from Pakistan, has made significant contributions to the field of archaeology, particularly in Pakistan. In his comprehensive survey conducted from 1987 to 1989 along the Grand Trunk Road, Dar meticulously documented the remaining historical relics. It was during this survey that the historical significance of the mosque was discovered, subsequently detailed in Dar's renowned report, "Caravanserais along the Grand Trunk in Pakistan."

The presence of these two historical edifices in such close proximity hinted at the possibility of a Caravanserai, an inn for travelers, having existed in the area in the past. The Grand Trunk Road, with its rich historical heritage, stretches from the town of Gakkhar Cheema in Gujranwala towards Dhaunkal. In the past, there was a Kacchi Serai in Gujranwala, but the passage of time has completely erased its existence.

The present mosque, although modest in size, exudes its historical charm. The covered prayer hall measures a mere 23 ft x 40 ft, adorned with three arched gateways at the front and a single dome atop. In the past, remnants of frescoes adorned the interior ceiling, a sight captured in pictures shared by a friend. Unfortunately, due to current circumstances, visitors are not permitted to explore the historical mosque's interior, as access has been restricted by the caretaker. Recent clashes between different religious sects in the area have further complicated matters concerning the control of the mosque.

Situated in front of a courtyard, another towering arched gateway greets visitors. The mosque is constructed on an elevated platform, beneath which a basement lies. This unique architectural feature suggests that the basement may have served as a Serai, providing shelter for traveller’s at night or acting as living quarters for students who came to study Quranic verses.

The mosque and Serai of Daunkal stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their historical significance illuminating the rich cultural heritage of Pakistan. These architectural marvels not only showcase the grandeur of the past but also serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving our historical treasures. By safeguarding these remnants, we honor the collective memory of our ancestors and provide future generations with the opportunity to appreciate and learn from the splendor of the past.

 

Remains of a Hindu Temple, Cremation Ground and plate form in Wazirabad

 23^rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced without any written permission)

Lala Chaddhamal was a prominent businessman and philanthropist who lived in Wazirabad, a city in the Gujranwala district of Punjab, Pakistan. He was born in 1865 and is known for his contributions to the development of Wazirabad. He also established several businesses in Wazirabad, including a cotton ginning and pressing factory, a flour mill, and a soap factory. He was also a prominent landlord and owned several agricultural lands in the area. Apart from his business ventures, Lala Chaddhamal was known for his philanthropic activities. He donated generously to several charitable organizations and helped fund the construction of several public facilities in Wazirabad.

In the suburbs of Wazirabad, remains of a small Hindu temple (Shivala), cremation ground (Shamshan Ghat), and platform are still present. They were all named after Lala Chaddhamal, who built these facilities for the Hindu community of Wazirabad for performing religious rituals for the deceased. At present, the cremation ground is disappeared: and the Hindu temple and cremation platforms are still standing however in a decrepit state.

Cremation Platform 

Cremation Platform 

Cremation Platform 

The King of Leather: Sheikhan Di Khoti Wazirabad

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's Mansion: A Testament to Hindustan's Rich Heritage

Introduction:

In the era of British rule in Hindustan, only two tanneries dotted the country's landscape, one of which was in Cawnpore and the other in Wazirabad. Under the astute administration of Sheikh Niaz Ahmed, the Wazirabad Tannery thrived. Not only was Sheikh Niaz a prominent figure in the leather industry, but he also hailed from Wazirabad and erected a magnificent mansion for himself, a testament to his success and stature. Completed in 1929 at a cost of one Lac rupees, this mansion, known as 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' still stands proudly on Lt. Arif Shaheed Road, across from the city courts.

Architectural Grandeur:

The two-story mansion exudes an aura of grandeur and opulence, reminiscent of a palace. Elaborate lancet arches in the Gothic style grace the front arcade on the ground floor, accentuating its elegance. A majestic Victorian-style porch occupies the central portion of the facade, capturing the attention of all who pass by. The meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the use of English bond bricks, which lend strength and structure to the building. Intricate column ribs and an ornate exterior cornice, all meticulously designed with elegant cut bricks, further embellish the mansion's exterior.

A Fusion of Architectural Styles:

The mansion is a prime example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, a style that emerged and gained prominence during the colonial period in India. This architectural blend masterfully incorporates elements from Indian, Islamic, and European styles. Oval-shaped ventilators, a common feature in colonial architecture to ensure ventilation in hot and humid climates, are also present in the mansion's front elevation. The first floor boasts rectangular windows and square ventilators, both adorned with curved tops. Such intricate detailing highlights the seamless fusion of various architectural influences.

A Testament to the Changing Landscape:

According to our local host, a resident of Wazirabad, the mansion was once surrounded by a vast jungle that has since been lost to the march of urbanization. The concrete jungle has replaced the natural beauty that once enveloped the estate. Adjacent to the mansion, in a state of disrepair, lie the servant quarters and a mosque that Sheikh Niaz himself constructed, reflecting the passage of time and neglect.

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed: A Man of Honor:

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed was renowned for his unwavering integrity and expertise in the leather industry. His dedication earned him the respect of the British, who recognized his contributions by presenting him with a watch as a token of appreciation. In due course, he was bestowed with the title of honorary magistrate by the Queen of Britain, further cementing his reputation. When Sheikh Niaz passed away, the British newspaper's headline the following day read, "The King of Leather has died," a testament to his prominence and the impact he had made in his field.

Legacy and Remembrance:

Years later, after the formation of Pakistan, Sheikh Niaz's son, Arif, sacrificed his life in the 1971 war. In honor of his gallantry and sacrifice, the road in front of the mansion was named "Lt. Arif Shaheed Road." This poignant tribute perpetuates the memory of Sheikh Niaz's family's sacrifices and their contributions to the nation.

Unspoken Stories of Wazirabad's Illustrious Past:

Known among the commoners of Wazirabad as 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' this magnificent mansion encapsulates the rich and storied history of the city. It stands as a testament to the bygone era of Hindustan's grandeur and Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's enduring legacy. Concealed within its walls are untold stories of triumph, heritage, and the fusion of cultures that shaped the region's history.

Conclusion:

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's mansion in Wazirabad stands as a testament to the grandeur of Hindustan's past. Its architectural magnificence, blending elements of Indian, Islamic, and European styles, is a remarkable example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. The mansion's rich history, from Sheikh Niaz's achievements in the leather industry to his son's sacrifice for the nation, adds layers of significance to its legacy. As 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' it remains a cherished symbol of Wazirabad's illustrious past and a beacon of heritage for generations to come.

The mosque built by Sheikh Niaz

Mosque

Mosque

Mosque

Servant rooms