𝐒𝐡𝐚𝐡𝐢 𝐌𝐚𝐬𝐣𝐢𝐝 𝐂𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐢𝐨𝐭

  06th March 2018

The magnificent Shahi Masjid in Chiniot stands as a testament to the architectural prowess of Wazir Saad Ullah Khan during the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. This mosque's design is said to bear a striking resemblance to the Jamia Masjid in Delhi, while its arches share a strong resemblance to those found in the Red Fort. It is noteworthy that both the Jamia Masjid and the Red Fort were not only constructed during Shah Jahan's reign but were also supervised by the esteemed Wazir himself.

Saad Ullah Khan, born into poverty in the village of Pataraki near Chiniot, resided near Lahore's Wazir Khan Masjid before eventually shifting to Delhi. This proximity may explain the similarities in the frescoes and side structures between the Wazir Khan Mosque and the Shahi Masjid. Following his appointment as Wazir by Shah Jahan, owing to his intellect and knowledge, Khan undertook the construction of a mosque in Chiniot, recognizing its strategic significance at the time.

The construction of the mosque spanned nine years, from 1646 to 1655 AD, thanks to Wazir Saad Ullah Khan's remarkable ability to accomplish the task without excessive expenditure. The mosque was erected on a single podium, elevated approximately 15 feet above the ground, and connected to the bazaar through two adjoining lanes. A central ablution pool graced the courtyard, while four minarets adorned the corners of the structure. Legend has it that these minarets were originally built with a unique stone known as Sang-e-Larzaan, earning their moniker as the "trembling stone," as they would sway slightly in the face of strong winds. The main prayer hall, crowned with three domes, featured four rows of majestic pillars adorned with intricate floral patterns and exquisite designs.

Throughout the Mughal era, the mosque stood in all its glory. However, when Punjab fell under Sikh rule, the armies of Ranjit Singh converted the mosque into a stable in 1816, marking a stark transformation of its purpose.

Pul Shah Daula, A Two-story bridge that Constructed 400 years ago. (2019)

 Saturday, 09 November 2019 (Date of Visit)

(All pictures and the writeup is author integral property, please respect copyright)

 Pul Shah Daula, A Two-story bridge that Constructed 400 years ago. 

 

View of Bridge from the downstream west side

Tapiala Dost Muhammad Khan is a small town located 11.7 km on Muridka-Narang Mandi Road. The old route of Grand Trunk Road passes through this town. Remains of the old Grand Trunk road still can be seen outside of this village. Also, GT Road from Tapiala (mausoleum) made the onward journey to Pul Shah Daula with an ancient arched bridge on Nullah Degh. 

 

Dr. Saifur Rehman Dar is a famous historian and has done a detailed survey on GTR and caravanserais built along this road. According to him, the Pul shah Daula was most likely constructed in the times of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. So, the bridge is roughly 400 years old.

 

However, no reference in any history books could be found, that why the name of this bridge attributed to a famous saint Shah Daula, who buried in Gujrat. 

 

I visited the site of the bridge in 2019. It is a tall bridge spanning over five arches and still operational for every type of traffic. The most fascinating thing about this bridge is that it has two stories. The piers supporting the top deck slab are rising from another deck slab which lies roughly at one foot above the current water level in the stream.  Both Deck Slabs have a 20 ft difference in height.

Another View

 

The bridge was constructed in two phases. After the completion of the first phase of construction, the Degh Nullah (which have a source from Jammu) have seen some high floods, and the bridge got completely drowned under the water. 

 

Shah Jahan expanded the Mughal Empire to the west beyond the Khyber Pass to Ghazna and Kandahar. For timely supplies and communication of military troops, Grand trunk road played an important role in the past.  Pul Shah Daula was one of the major bridges on Grand trunk road. The news of it getting drowned must have been created a panic in Shah Jehan court. The architect assigned to design the bridge screwed for considering the wrong values of flood levels. Mughals who have all the resources and builders at that time to construct a new bridge. It seems the orders of construction of the new bridge on the existing bridge deck have come in quite a haste.  

One last Burj is standing on one end of the parapet wall. The overall stability condition of this bridge does not seem to be good.  Complete neglect has been observed by the concerned Government department to conserve such a great architecture of the past.

The last Standing Burj on Bridge

Burj, cracks can be seen below, could be collapse at any time 

Standing on deck slab of Bridge

Degh Nullah downstream in background

Another view of the Bridge from the upstream side 

Another view of the Bridge from the upstream side 

Another view of the Bridge from the upstream side 

Portions of Grand Trunk Road present before the Bridge of Shah Daula

Remain of Grand Trunk Road

Remains of Grand Trunk Road

Remains of Grand Trunk Road

Remains of Grand Trunk Road

Remains of Grand Trunk Road

Remains of Grand Trunk Road

GARI SHAHU LESS EXPLORED (2018)

Date of Visit: 21-01-2018

All pictures are owned

Historical writings taken from Majid Sheikh article

The Gate way of Gari Shahu Constructed  some 350 years back 

In past, my father's eldest sister had a home in the narrow streets of Gari Shahu. We used to visit this place from childhood.  I have a long list of relatives who work in Pakistan railways. My maternal and paternal grandfather worked in this department. I have been visiting Gari Shahu and its surroundings from mid-'80s Lahore definitely has a rich historical past, and when talking about Garhi Shahu, one cannot forget but mention the railway station, or the Christian community, or the Burt Hall, that wonderful dance club (Nautch Ghar) that no longer functions.  Then there are also the Convent of Jesus and Mary, the Jamia Naimia Mosque, and the Taj and Crown cinemas but surely there is much more to this place than we have ever cared to explore.

Mosque of Shah Abu Alkhair

During the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb, the fame of Abul Khair had spread far and wide. The emperor, wishing that the maximum number of people should benefit from the sage, ordered that a madrassah be built for Abul Khair and a suitable residence be arranged for the scholar.  A fireman or a Royal Order was also issued instituting a maintenance allowance for the upkeep of the house and the madrassah and so Abul Khair’s institution was founded.  A domed mosque was also built along with rooms for students and dervishes. For some time after that, the area was also known as Khairgarh.  

The area is lost with new construction, these are supposed to be constructed over old 350 years old construction. luckily we found remains of an old hujra constructed of an old Mughal era bridge, In the present picture, we are standing in the drawing-room of the house the openings visible is the entrance of the hujra.

Chamber of student now used as  store

Another Chamber 

There is house constructed above this chmaber, no light could not take clear pictures

Another view of dome

The Dome Ceiling 

With my friend Kashif Gurki inisde the chamber on my birthdday

Another view of adjoining chamber

These chambers have still remains of students

Another view of Dome

The Chamber converted into new houses

3 ft wide walls old construction converted into new houses

The connection between two chambers could not travel more 

There was fortress and minarets around Gari Shahu, remains of an old wall

Remains of Old Wall 

Remains of an Old Wall

Remains of an old Wall

Abul Khair taught in his madressah till the age of 105, and on his death, during the reign of Muhammad Shah, he was buried here. As the Mughal Empire was folding and anarchy was slowly settling in, scholarship and learning were no longer on a premium.  Before Maharaja Ranjit Singh came to power in 1799 and finally managed to bring order for 40 odd years.  During this period, anarchy reigned supreme and the madressah was taken over by a khalifa by the name of Muhammad Naeem, who taught there but on his death there was a void.

Nearby this madressah, there was a famous mohallah named Thathi Gagga. When the marauders ransacked it, its inhabitants ran off and took shelter in a neighborhood called Fata Shah. Then one day, Abul Khair’s madressah also came under attack by a roaming band of thieves.  They had figured that since the madressah was quiet large and had bricked dwellings, there must be some treasure here. But the students and the dervishes had nothing except the clothes on their backs and they were stripped of even these meager belongings as they escaped with their lives.

Then came a gangster by the name of Shahu, and along with his gang of rustlers, he took possession of the buildings meant to accommodate Abul Khair and his scholars. His gang went on a rampage, stealing cattle and other valuables from the area which they then hid in the madressah for safekeeping.  If the owners demanded their possessions back, they would return them for a small price otherwise, they would sell their goods.

This was the age when Lehna Singh, Suba Singh, and Gujjar Singh (the three rulers of Lahore) were restricted to their small domains.  In between there was no law.   The gang of Shahu ruled supreme, and it was from him that the name Garhi Shahu (Fortress of Shahu) came. Shahu died five years later and his men took control of the land. They did not have the same influence as Shahu did so the residents of mohallah Thathi Gagga, who had earlier taken shelter in Fata Shah, found an opportune time and managed to kick Shahu's men out and occupied the buildings for themselves. But Shahu’s name forever remained attached to it and was never changed, even by the British.

The actual fortress building itself had a solid brick boundary wall with towers in all four corners. Portions of the original wall and the towers still exist, incorporated in walls of some of the houses. The entrance is through a large arched gateway to the north, which still exists, although the original door is long gone. Beside the western wall is the domed mosque with its tall minars. It is still known as Abul Khair's Mosque. Some of the original rooms, built for the students are still intact under the modern houses that have sprung up everywhere. Once all the land inside the fortress was built upon, people started building outside the boundary walls and so a number of havelis sprung up all around the original fortress. Then the British came and expanded it even further by laying out the Mayo Road (now renamed Allama Iqbal Road) and establishing residential colonies for the railway employees. Today, the area known as Garhi Shahu is much larger than the original fortress that was built for Abul Khair and then subsequently occupied by Shahu and his gang.

Gari Shahu still was a village in times of British, still found the remains of original wall of fort

Remains of Fort Wall

Grave of Shah Abul Khair

Baba Inyat Shah Wali another Saint burried in Gari Shahu