Ali Usman Baig : The double-domed shrine of Gumbat-Balo Khale, Kandak Valley (2019)

*All photos are owned

Reference of Text, A Guide to Kandak and Kotha Valleys

The Site of Gumbat, The village of Balo-Kale, Kandak Valley, River Swat, and Mankial Mountains in Background

The archaeological site of Gumbat, which means 'Stupa' in Pashto, holds significant historical and religious importance as a Buddhist shrine known as the Great Shrine or the Great Vihara. Originally housing a relic, cult statue, or votive stupa, this site is situated at the heart of the Kandak valley, specifically on the left side at coordinates 34°37'51'' N, 72°10'46'' E. It sits at an elevation of approximately 986,000 above sea level. The site's archaeological terrace rises above the village of Balo Kalai or Balo Kale, following an ancient path leading to the Kakai-Kandao pass. Beyond the pass, the path continues into the Kotah Valley, where other significant Buddhist sites have been unearthed in recent times.

The double-domed shrine of Gumbat-Balo Khale, dating back to the 1st and 2nd century CE, stands as one of the best-preserved monuments in the Swat Valley. Due to its deteriorating condition, the shrine underwent urgent restoration in 2011. The initial restoration work was carried out by the Pakistani Army under the ACT project, and subsequent efforts were undertaken by ACT, including the excavation of surrounding monuments.

The construction of the shrine features a square-plan Buddhist shrine with an enclosed cloister elevated on a high podium. The entrance to the shrine is located on the eastern side. The external walls are separated from the inner cells by a vaulted corridor, supported by a row of cyma reverse-type brackets. The Great Shrine was originally intended to house a stupa-reliquary, a large votive stele, or a stucco statue.

The provided images showcase the state of the site before its restoration in 2012, as well as drawings and reconstructions of the double-domed Buddhist shrine. They offer a glimpse into the architectural details and layout of the shrine, the surrounding vihara (open court), and the remnants of votive stupa platforms. Additionally, there are views from inside the shrine, providing a closer look at the Buddhist courts and the foundations of the votive stupa.

In addition to its archaeological significance, the story takes a turn to highlight the kindness and generosity of a local farmer encountered during a visit to the Kandak Valley. Despite the discussion on the historical site, it emphasizes the richness of the soul found in individuals, regardless of their material wealth. The farmer, who also served as a guard at one of the archaeological sites, demonstrated immense generosity by offering bread and tea to the travelers without even being asked. The narrative sheds light on the contrast between financial wealth and the richness of one's heart, emphasizing the value of compassion and human connection. It also mentions the unfortunate circumstances faced by the guard, who had not received a salary for the past six months due to a lack of funds and changes in government.