My visit to Kharpocho Fort, Skardu in 2003

My father, an avid traveler, explored the remote regions of northern Pakistan in the early 1980s. It is from him that I inherited my love for mountains and nature. In the summer of 2003, during our vacation, we embarked on a memorable trip to Gilgit Baltistan. After spending a few days in Gilgit, where we visited the Kargah Nullah Buddhist site, we continued our journey to Skardu city. One of the highlights of our visit was the Kharpocho Fort, which required a bit of hiking to reach. Perched atop a hill, the fort offered a breathtaking view of the entire cityscape. Accompanied by three friends from university, we carefully captured each moment on our film roll camera, cherishing the experience.

Known as the "King of Forts," this magnificent structure is situated in Skardu city, within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Renowned Australian mountaineer and filmmaker, Greg Child, described the fort as being strategically positioned above the confluence of rivers, providing an awe-inspiring vista of the Rock of Skardu.

Originally constructed by King Ali Sher Khan Anchan in the late sixteenth century, the fort's significance attracted the attention of General Zorawar Singh, a member of the Dogra Rajput clan serving under Maharaja Gulab Singh. Recognizing its strategic location, General Zorawar Singh occupied the fort as part of his military campaigns to incorporate the Baltistan region into the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir. However, in 1857, under the guidance of Ranbir Singh, the fort was completely demolished. Even Mughal emperor Aurangzeb had made unsuccessful attempts to capture the fort.

During the First Kashmir War in 1947, the fort played a crucial role. The Jammu and Kashmir State Forces, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Sher Jung Thapa, were stationed within its walls. The fort came under siege by the Gilgit Scouts and rebel troops aligned with the Pakistan Army. On February 11, 1948, a fierce battle ensued between the Pakistani forces and the Skardu garrison stationed in the fort. After a six-hour confrontation, the attackers were forced to retreat. However, they returned on February 14, continuing their assault on the fort with intermittent fire. The siege persisted for over six months, and due to dwindling supplies of ammunition and rations, the Kashmiri forces were eventually compelled to leave the fort in small groups on August 13, 1948. Tragically, on August 14, the fort fell to the invaders, with most of the remaining defenders reportedly losing their lives, except for Colonel Thapa and his Sikh orderly, who were taken as prisoners. As a result, Skardu became a part of Pakistan-controlled Kashmir, later renamed Gilgit-Baltistan.