A forgotten 15th-century mosque in outskirts of Khanqah Dogran (2018)

Following the foot steps of Alexander Cunningham 

Date of Visit: - March, 08, 2018

All Pictures are owned

Asarur near Khangah Dogran (also known as Masrur), was the capital of a kingdom stretching from the Indus to the Beas. Huen Tsang calls the town he visited as Tse-kia, and describes it as the capital of a kingdom embracing the whole of the plains of the Punjab from the Indus to the Beas, and from the foot of the mountains to the junction of the five rivers below Multan. The site of this town, with a near approach to certainty, is identified by Genral Cunningham with a mound in this district near the modern village of Asarur. Popular tradition is si lent as to the history of Asarur. The people merely state that it was originally called Udamnagar or Uda Nagari and that it was deserted for many centuries until Akbar's time when Ugah Shah a Dogar, built the mosque which still exists on the top of the mound. In construction of this mosque bricks extracted from the mound have been used. The mosque is in dilapidated state and roof beam has fallen at many places. Also, currently it is not used for offering prayers. 

The antiquity claimed for the place is further confirmed by the unusually large size of the bricks 18" x 10" x 3", which are found all over the ruins, and also by the Indo-Scythian coins which until the recent past used to be found in great numbers after rains. Its history, therefore, certainly reaches back to the first century before the Christian era.

KHANQAH DOGRAN AND TOMB OF HAJI DEWAN NIAMATULLAH (RA) (2018)

Date of Visit 08-03-2018

Embarking on a quest to find an old Mughal-era mosque, I set foot in the captivating city of Khanqah Dogran, nestled within the Sheikhupura District of Pakistan's Punjab province. Though my search for the mosque proved unsuccessful, fate had other plans in store for me. As disappointment threatened to overshadow my visit, the town unveiled a tapestry of historical wonders that delighted my curious spirit.

Once a part of the Gujranwala District until 1922, Khanqah Dogran has now found its place within the Safdarabad Tehsil of Sheikhupura District. Situated along the Sargodha to Sheikhupura Road, this enchanting city lies fifteen miles west of Farooqabad. When Nankana Sahib was established as a district, both Khanqah Dogran and Safdarabad earned the privilege of being included as cities within this newly formed administrative region known as Nankana Sahib.

The roots of Khanqah Dogran run deep, tracing back an impressive five centuries to its alleged founder, Haji Dewan Niamatullah Soharwardi (RA). In ancient records, the town was known by the name Cha Masroor, but with the arrival of Haji Dewan Niametullah (RA), a new chapter began, and the town adopted the name "Khita Dogran," meaning the land of Dogar. However, upon the passing of Dewan Saheb, the town underwent yet another transformation, becoming the Khanqah Dogran we know today. The name carries an intriguing literary meaning, referring to the 'graveyard of Dogar's.' Within the city, a peaceful graveyard stands as a testament to its storied past, housing the tomb of Haji Dewan Niamtullah Soharwardi, the esteemed founder, alongside the resting places of four other family members. Khanqah Dogran has also earned its reputation as a city of saints, with revered figures like Hazrat Pir Masoom Shah and Mahdas Abdalvi Hazrat Abdul Karim Chisti Rizvi dedicating their lives to the teachings of Islam. Their final resting places, marked by tombs, become sacred sites that add to the city's spiritual tapestry.

As I explored further, I discovered the architectural remnants of a bygone era—pre-partition houses that bear witness to the city's multicultural heritage. Constructed by Hindu families, these houses serve as poignant reminders of the harmonious coexistence that once thrived within Khanqah Dogran's walls. Amidst this historical charm, the remnants of a Hindu Temple still stand, echoing the echoes of devotion and religious diversity that were once celebrated here. And let's not forget the vibrant heartbeat of the city—the Farmer's Market. This bustling hub of activity brings together locals and traders, immersing visitors in a vibrant tapestry of colors, scents, and flavors.

Venturing to the south of Khanqah Dogran, I stumbled upon the remains of an ancient mound—a precious relic from the past. These remnants tell a tale of a Buddhist town called Usrur, which once flourished in this very location. To uncover the intricate details of this remarkable discovery, I invite you to delve into another blog that reveals the fascinating history behind this mound and its significance to the region.

Though my original purpose may not have been fulfilled, my journey through Khanqah Dogran proved to be an extraordinary experience. As I bid farewell to this captivating city, I carry with me cherished memories of its rich history, spiritual legacy, and vibrant cultural tapestry.

Tomb of Haji Dewan Niamat 

Mela at Khanqah Dogran

Hindu Temple at Khanqah Dogran

Pre-Partition houses

Remnants of Fort in Khanqah Dogran

Remnants of Fort in Khanqah Dogran, which supposed to be Constructed from Bricks Taken from Ancient city of Asarur

References taken from the Archaeological Survey of India

08-03-2018

Hussain Dogar was my host in Khanqah Dogran. We both were in search of an old mosque of 17^th Century.  The only source of information about that mosque was a picture that earlier, I have seen on flicker.  We walked for hours in streets of Khanqah Dogran but could not able to find that mosque, may be that mosque location was wrongly marked.

We abandoned our exploring journey after reaching at Tomb of “Haji Dewan Namet Ullah Suharwardi”. It is said that, Khanqah Dogran was populated some five hundred years agok, when “Haji Dewan Namet Ullah Suharwardi” settled in this area.  Before him it was found in books by name of “Cha Masroor” and “Khitah Dogran”.  Neighboring to the tomb of Dewan Sahib there are remnants of an old fort. Locals only know that some Hindu family was living here before Indo-Pak partition. Well that fort has something which has history more than two thousand years old.   In order to understand it we have to go some fourteen hundred years back, Villages in the Khangah Dogran tahsil of Sheikhupura District, Punjab, situated in 31 47' N. and 73 42' E. It is identified by Cunningham with the ancient city of Tse-kie or Taki, which was visited by Hiuen Tsiang in a. d. 630. The city was then one of great importance, and is said by the Chinese pilgrim to have been 3 miles in circuit, a measurement which agrees well enough with that of the ruins still existing. The antiquity claimed for the place is confirmed by the large size of the bricks, 18 by 10 by 3 inches, which are found all over the ruins, and by the great numbers of Indo-Scythian coins that are discovered after heavy rain. Its history therefore certainly reaches back to the beginning of the Christian era. The ruins consist of an extensive mound, 15,600 feet, or nearly 3 miles, in circuit. The highest point is in the north-west quarter, where the mound rises to 59 feet above the fields. This part, which Cunningham takes to have been the ancient palace, is 600 feet long and 400 feet broad, and quite regular in shape. It contains an old well, 21 feet in diameter, which has not been used for many years and is now dry. The place is com- pletely surrounded by a line of large mounds about 25 feet in height, and 8,100 feet, or \\ miles, in circuit, which was evidently the strong- hold or citadel of the place. The mounds are round and prominent, like the ruins of large towers or bastions. On the east and south sides of the citadel the mass of ruins sinks to 10 and 15 feet in height, but it is twice the size of the citadel, and is no doubt the remains of the old city. There are no visible traces of any ancient buildings, as all the surface bricks have been long ago carried off to the neighbouring shrine of Ugah Shah at Khangah Masrur on the road from Lahore to Pindi Bhattian ; but among the old bricks forming the surrounding wall of the mosque, Cunningham found three moulded in different patterns, which could only have belonged to buildings of some importance.

He found also a wedge-shaped brick, 15 inches long and 3 inches thick, with a breadth of ro inches at the narrow end and nearly 10^ inches at the broad end. This must have been made for a stupa, or for a well, but most probably for the latter, as the existing well is 2 1 feet in diameter. The modern village of Asarur contains only forty-five houses. At the time of Hiuen Tsiang's visit there were ten monasteries, but very few Buddhists, and the mass of the people worshipped the Brah- manical gods. North-east of the town, at 10 //, or nearly 2 miles, was a stTlpa of Asoka, 200 feet in height, which marked the spot where Buddha had halted, and which was said to contain a large number of his relics. This stupa General Cunningham identifies with the little mound of Salar, near Thatta Saiyidan, just 2 miles to the north of Asarur.

Now come to the fort which I have found in Khanqah Dogran that looks to be constructed of surface bricks taken from the ancient town of Asarur.  

Asarur, The Buddhist town which exists on land of Khanqah Dogran some  fifteen hundred to two thousand years back. 

An abandoned Hindu Temple in Khanqah Dogran

08-03-2018

In the charming town of Khanqah Dogran, my gracious host, Hussain Dogar, and I embarked on a shared quest in search of a centuries-old mosque from the 17th century. Our determination was fueled by the sight of a captivating picture of this mosque on Flicker many years ago. However, despite our best efforts, the elusive mosque remained beyond our grasp. Perhaps the location was mislabeled, adding a touch of mystery to our expedition. Nevertheless, as we made our way back, a remarkable sight greeted us in the heart of Khanqah Dogran Bazaar—an abandoned Hindu mandir.

This ancient place of worship had undergone a transformation, with its lower portion repurposed into shops, bustling with the energy of daily commerce. As we looked up, wooden balconies adorned the first floor, adding an air of elegance to the structure. The chapel rooms, once filled with prayer and devotion, now housed families who had migrated after the partition. Walking through the surrounding street, we discovered a poignant reminder of the town's history—Pre-Partition Hindu Houses that stood as silent witnesses to a bygone era. It was revealed to us by locals that before the year 1947, this very street teemed with the vibrant presence of Hindu families. However, the passage of time had brought change, and today, no Hindu families remained in the area. The mandir itself, abandoned for decades, bore the architectural hallmarks of the early 19th century or possibly the latter half of the 18th century.

In this unexpected encounter, we found ourselves immersed in the layers of Khanqah Dogran's history, where religious narratives intertwine with the passage of time. The abandoned mandir stood as a tangible symbol of the town's multicultural past and the ebb and flow of its inhabitants. As we reflected on our journey, we realized that even though our original objective remained unfulfilled, the stories we encountered along the way painted a vivid portrait of the town's rich tapestry of cultures and traditions.

Abandoned Hindu Tmeple

Entrance 

Enterance