The King of Leather: Sheikhan Di Khoti Wazirabad

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's Mansion: A Testament to Hindustan's Rich Heritage

Introduction:

In the era of British rule in Hindustan, only two tanneries dotted the country's landscape, one of which was in Cawnpore and the other in Wazirabad. Under the astute administration of Sheikh Niaz Ahmed, the Wazirabad Tannery thrived. Not only was Sheikh Niaz a prominent figure in the leather industry, but he also hailed from Wazirabad and erected a magnificent mansion for himself, a testament to his success and stature. Completed in 1929 at a cost of one Lac rupees, this mansion, known as 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' still stands proudly on Lt. Arif Shaheed Road, across from the city courts.

Architectural Grandeur:

The two-story mansion exudes an aura of grandeur and opulence, reminiscent of a palace. Elaborate lancet arches in the Gothic style grace the front arcade on the ground floor, accentuating its elegance. A majestic Victorian-style porch occupies the central portion of the facade, capturing the attention of all who pass by. The meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the use of English bond bricks, which lend strength and structure to the building. Intricate column ribs and an ornate exterior cornice, all meticulously designed with elegant cut bricks, further embellish the mansion's exterior.

A Fusion of Architectural Styles:

The mansion is a prime example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, a style that emerged and gained prominence during the colonial period in India. This architectural blend masterfully incorporates elements from Indian, Islamic, and European styles. Oval-shaped ventilators, a common feature in colonial architecture to ensure ventilation in hot and humid climates, are also present in the mansion's front elevation. The first floor boasts rectangular windows and square ventilators, both adorned with curved tops. Such intricate detailing highlights the seamless fusion of various architectural influences.

A Testament to the Changing Landscape:

According to our local host, a resident of Wazirabad, the mansion was once surrounded by a vast jungle that has since been lost to the march of urbanization. The concrete jungle has replaced the natural beauty that once enveloped the estate. Adjacent to the mansion, in a state of disrepair, lie the servant quarters and a mosque that Sheikh Niaz himself constructed, reflecting the passage of time and neglect.

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed: A Man of Honor:

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed was renowned for his unwavering integrity and expertise in the leather industry. His dedication earned him the respect of the British, who recognized his contributions by presenting him with a watch as a token of appreciation. In due course, he was bestowed with the title of honorary magistrate by the Queen of Britain, further cementing his reputation. When Sheikh Niaz passed away, the British newspaper's headline the following day read, "The King of Leather has died," a testament to his prominence and the impact he had made in his field.

Legacy and Remembrance:

Years later, after the formation of Pakistan, Sheikh Niaz's son, Arif, sacrificed his life in the 1971 war. In honor of his gallantry and sacrifice, the road in front of the mansion was named "Lt. Arif Shaheed Road." This poignant tribute perpetuates the memory of Sheikh Niaz's family's sacrifices and their contributions to the nation.

Unspoken Stories of Wazirabad's Illustrious Past:

Known among the commoners of Wazirabad as 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' this magnificent mansion encapsulates the rich and storied history of the city. It stands as a testament to the bygone era of Hindustan's grandeur and Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's enduring legacy. Concealed within its walls are untold stories of triumph, heritage, and the fusion of cultures that shaped the region's history.

Conclusion:

Sheikh Niaz Ahmed's mansion in Wazirabad stands as a testament to the grandeur of Hindustan's past. Its architectural magnificence, blending elements of Indian, Islamic, and European styles, is a remarkable example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. The mansion's rich history, from Sheikh Niaz's achievements in the leather industry to his son's sacrifice for the nation, adds layers of significance to its legacy. As 'Sheikh wali Khoti,' it remains a cherished symbol of Wazirabad's illustrious past and a beacon of heritage for generations to come.

The mosque built by Sheikh Niaz

Mosque

Mosque

Mosque

Servant rooms

Remains of a Hindu Temple, Cremation Ground and plate form in Wazirabad

 23^rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced without any written permission)

Lala Chaddhamal was a prominent businessman and philanthropist who lived in Wazirabad, a city in the Gujranwala district of Punjab, Pakistan. He was born in 1865 and is known for his contributions to the development of Wazirabad. He also established several businesses in Wazirabad, including a cotton ginning and pressing factory, a flour mill, and a soap factory. He was also a prominent landlord and owned several agricultural lands in the area. Apart from his business ventures, Lala Chaddhamal was known for his philanthropic activities. He donated generously to several charitable organizations and helped fund the construction of several public facilities in Wazirabad.

In the suburbs of Wazirabad, remains of a small Hindu temple (Shivala), cremation ground (Shamshan Ghat), and platform are still present. They were all named after Lala Chaddhamal, who built these facilities for the Hindu community of Wazirabad for performing religious rituals for the deceased. At present, the cremation ground is disappeared: and the Hindu temple and cremation platforms are still standing however in a decrepit state.

Cremation Platform 

Cremation Platform 

Cremation Platform 

The historical Saman Burj of Wazirabad

 23^rd  April 2023

"All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig. This article was written after referencing Muhammad Hassan Miraj's article, 'The Burj,' published in Dawn on October 02, 2012."

Wazirabad, a city steeped in history, was established by Wazir Khan, the governor, and later Grand Vizier of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, during the 17th century. One of the city's remarkable historical wonders is Saman Burj, also known as Musamman Burj.

The Persian term "Musamman" translates to figure eight, and these 57 canals of history encompass a vast complex of structures. The two main gates feature a configuration of four watchtowers each, giving rise to the moniker "Musamman Burj." The Musamman Burj in Agra is also renowned for its distinctive architecture.

Legend has it that Jehangir and his wife, Noor Jehan, frequently stayed at Musamman Burj while en route to Kashmir. This location was formerly the Royal Sarai erected during Emperor Jehangir's reign in 1601 AD. Each year, when the Chenab River was flowing strongly, the emperor and his queen would spend several days at the site while traveling from Lahore to Kashmir.

Charat Singh, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's grandfather, took over Saman Burj when the Mughal Empire was in decline in 1752. After renovating the complex, he added new structures and took up residence there. His son Maha Singh, the father of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, subsequently occupied the site.

At present, it is noteworthy that neither Sikhs nor Mughals inhabit Saman Burj. The current inhabitants claim to be the relatives of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir's second wife, Begum Bai, a Jaral Rajput from Rajauri in Indian-occupied Kashmir. Begum Bai was also Emperor Shah Aalam's mother.

In 1799, when the Mughal empire was in decline, the Sikh empire led by Ranjeet Singh gained control of parts of Punjab and Kashmir, including Rajauri. However, "Maharajah Ranjeet Singh of Punjab had occupied Rajouri and other Punjab Hills States in 1813. But he had allowed the Raja of Rajaur (Aagar Khan) to rule the state."

After the British defeated the Sikhs in the first Anglo-Sikh war in 1846, they sold Kashmir to Dogra Singh under the treaty of Amritsar, and the Jarral Rajas were forced to abandon their palaces and homes. Overwhelmed with sadness at the loss of their land, which they had ruled for six centuries, the Rajas left Rajauri and relocated to Rehlu in Kangra, Punjab.

Subsequently, due to a family dispute, a member named Raja Fakirullah purchased the land with Rs 6,000 from the British and moved into Wazirabad's Saman Burj. It is said that Fakirullah chose to stay in Wazirabad with the hope of eventually returning to Rajauri. That is how the Jarral Rajputs came to live in Saman Burj in Wazirabad.

The complex spans approximately seven acres and is surrounded by a massive wall with access through two large gates. The site includes havelis and Bara Darri for residential use, with four acres of gardens in the center accessible by walkways leading to the residences. On the northern end of Saman Burj flows a tributary of the Chenab River known as Pulkhu.

 I explored different parts of the building, enthralled by the paintings on the walls, yet also disheartened by the neglect that had befallen this magnificent art. From the pillars supporting the building to the wall paintings, everything exemplified an artistic grandeur rarely seen in contemporary architecture. The room on the top floor was where Jehangir and his wife resided.

On the top floor, there were abundant paintings adorning its walls. These artworks portrayed scenes of Guru Nanak preaching and Maharaja Ranjeet Singh joyously celebrating the Holi Festival. Additionally, there were depictions of flowers and horsemen.

The room that was once Maharaja Ranjit Singh's abode has been meticulously preserved, eagerly awaiting the arrival of royal occupants. Presently, two families reside within this palatial residence, occupying different quarters: the Thakur family and the Raja family. Notably, esteemed visitors such as Quaid-e-Azam and Imran Khan top the list.

While there may be debates regarding whether the government or any other organization should assist in restoring these sites, one cannot deny that the structures standing in the north of Wazirabad speak volumes even in their dilapidated state. Places like Saman Burj are not mere collections of ancient structures; they hold within them the tales of every brick, the essence of every particle of soil, and the allure of each painting, captivating those who possess an affinity for the rich history of the subcontinent.

Rediscovering the Sheesh Mahal: A Forgotten Gem of Wazirabad

 23^rd  April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

Sheesh Mahal was a renowned palace that graced the city of Wazirabad once, which exudes a captivating history and unparalleled architectural allure. While the present-day Wazirabad may only harbor a locality bearing a reminiscent name, the scant remnants of this majestic palace provide a tantalizing glimpse into its glorious bygone era. Its construction began during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir but remained incomplete for unknown reasons. It was not until centuries later, during the rule of Sikh Emperor Ranjeet Singh in Punjab, that the palace's construction recommenced under the supervision of Dewan Hikmat Ray.

Sheesh Mahal stood atop a ten-foot-high platform, elevating it from the ground level of the city. The palace showcased intricate carvings on tall wooden elements, while its doors were adorned with exquisite designs and patterns. It radiated an aura of grandeur and opulence, with its mesmerizing mirrorwork and mosaic art. Mirrors, glass, and reflective surfaces were intricately incorporated into the walls, ceilings, pillars, and even portions of the floors. Geometric patterns, floral motifs, and meticulous detailing adorned the palace, making it a sight to behold.

The mirrored ceilings of Sheesh Mahal were particularly enchanting. Countless mirrors were meticulously arranged to create a sparkling effect. When sunlight or candle flames reflected off the mirrors, it transformed the ceilings into a mesmerizing spectacle, resembling a starry night sky. The walls of the palace also boasted mirrors and glass, intricately carved and fitted with mirror pieces of various shapes and sizes. These reflective surfaces multiplied the light, creating an illusion of spaciousness. The strategic placement of windows and openings ensured the capture and direction of sunlight, amplifying the reflection and sparkle of the mirrors.

Inside the palace, remnants of fresco work can still be observed. The technique of fresco painting, involving the application of pigments directly onto wet plaster, once adorned the walls, adding to the artistic richness of Sheesh Mahal. The Bardari structure within the palace featured a central water hose with fountains at each corner. The flooring was meticulously designed using different colors of small tiles. The palace boasted fortified walls, entrance gates, and surrounding fruit gardens.

Notable historical figures, such as William Moorcroft, an English veterinarian and explorer employed by the East India Company, have mentioned Sheesh Mahal in their writings. The palace has witnessed the reigns of Charat Singh, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and Dewan Hikmat Roy, each leaving their mark on its history. Tragically, Dewan Hikmat Roy was assassinated on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, leaving the palace abandoned for a period of time.

The construction of Sheesh Mahal involved numerous artisans and craftsmen brought from various parts of the country. They established residential camps during the construction period and later settled permanently in the area now known as "Gali Sheeshawali" in Wazirabad. Interestingly, a unique feature of the palace was the presence of a rainwater collection tank on the rooftop known as "Asmani Khooh," a structure rarely seen elsewhere. 

Surrounding Sheesh Mahal, there were additional features such as a cremation ground and a Hindu temple to the north, and a Gurudwara to the south. A tributary of the Chenab River, called Pulkhu, flowed to the north. A nearby brick kiln near the Pir Mitha graveyard was responsible for supplying the small bricks used in the palace's construction. The palace also boasted a variety of fruit trees in its gardens, and nearby servant quarters and guest rooms were constructed to accommodate residents and visitors.

Over time, the remnants of Sheesh Mahal faded away, and despite its significance, little has been done to restore this remarkable piece of history. Today, only an arched gateway remains, surrounded by newly constructed houses populated by migrant families since 1947. Nevertheless, the legacy of Sheesh Mahal lives on through the stories of its notable inhabitants, such as Dewan Reepa Ram of Jammu Kashmir and the visit of Ahmad Shah Abdali during his invasion of India.

Sheesh Mahal, with its basement, tunnel network, vine storages, and rich history, holds countless untold tales. It has been witness to extravagant events, including the lavish wedding of the son of Mahtir Col. Ahmad Hassan, the Grand Wazir of Chitral. While the physical structure may have faded, the memory of Sheesh Mahal continues to captivate those who delve into its intriguing past.

 

Sher Shah Suri Mosque at Wazirabad

23rd April 2023

(All images copyright 2023 Mirza Ali Usman Baig, text written in this article is the author's Research and shouldn't be reproduced)

In close proximity to the Sher Shah Suri era Stepwell at Daunkal, Wazirabad lies a mosque that stands as a testament to the same historical period. Less than half a kilometer away, these two remarkable structures give a glimpse into the architectural marvels of the past.

Saifur Rehman Dar, a distinguished archaeologist from Pakistan, has made significant contributions to the field of archaeology, particularly in Pakistan. In his comprehensive survey conducted from 1987 to 1989 along the Grand Trunk Road, Dar meticulously documented the remaining historical relics. It was during this survey that the historical significance of the mosque was discovered, subsequently detailed in Dar's renowned report, "Caravanserais along the Grand Trunk in Pakistan."

The presence of these two historical edifices in such close proximity hinted at the possibility of a Caravanserai, an inn for travelers, having existed in the area in the past. The Grand Trunk Road, with its rich historical heritage, stretches from the town of Gakkhar Cheema in Gujranwala towards Dhaunkal. In the past, there was a Kacchi Serai in Gujranwala, but the passage of time has completely erased its existence.

The present mosque, although modest in size, exudes its historical charm. The covered prayer hall measures a mere 23 ft x 40 ft, adorned with three arched gateways at the front and a single dome atop. In the past, remnants of frescoes adorned the interior ceiling, a sight captured in pictures shared by a friend. Unfortunately, due to current circumstances, visitors are not permitted to explore the historical mosque's interior, as access has been restricted by the caretaker. Recent clashes between different religious sects in the area have further complicated matters concerning the control of the mosque.

Situated in front of a courtyard, another towering arched gateway greets visitors. The mosque is constructed on an elevated platform, beneath which a basement lies. This unique architectural feature suggests that the basement may have served as a Serai, providing shelter for traveller’s at night or acting as living quarters for students who came to study Quranic verses.

The mosque and Serai of Daunkal stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their historical significance illuminating the rich cultural heritage of Pakistan. These architectural marvels not only showcase the grandeur of the past but also serve as a reminder of the importance of preserving our historical treasures. By safeguarding these remnants, we honor the collective memory of our ancestors and provide future generations with the opportunity to appreciate and learn from the splendor of the past.